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Jason Conklin

g1

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hey ashley, im instaling a link plus g1 on a honda.im getting trigger signals from a 36-1 with the crank only. running 2 coils waste spark and grouped fire injection. the ecu should have a suitable supboard,how should i make the first set up and configuration? and how should i install exactly the trigger wheel? thanks jason

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ashley, the rpm wireing trigger 1 has a yellow wire and brown wire.the yellow is connected directly to the ecu and the brown goes to the shielded batch wireing. which of these is the positive and negative and how can i know which is which on the rpm sensor? what should i do whith the briading?should i connect it with the block as like the knok sensor? also im using inj drive 7 and 8 since it is batch fire. now,which injectors should fire drive 7 ,1 and 4 or 2 and 3 ? thanks jason

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Trigger Wiring (reluctor):  Positive is the yellow wire, negative is brown.  You will need an oscilloscope to determine the correct polarity.  The signal must go positive before it goes negative (ie a positive output must occur when the metal tooth moves towards the pickup, then negative as the tooth leaves the pickup.

Install the trigger wheel so that the gap has gone past the sensor by about five teeth when the motor is at TDC.  Make the pickup mounting be adjustable by one tooth.  Offset for setting the timing is adjusted using the switches on the ECU's sub board (and by trimming the sensor position).

Set up ignition as wasted spark.  Set injection to group fire.  Select the correct number of cylinders.  The sub board will take care of the rest.

Wire injectors exactly as you said however it does not actually matter as no matter how you wire them they will always be fired when valves are open and shut...

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Sync/Cyl Ratio will be 4:1 as the sub-board (assuming you have the correct one fitted) decodes the 36-1 signal to a 4-1 signal.  Offset is adjusted with the dip-switches fitted to the internal sub-board.  Basically the higher the values given by the switches being turned on, the more retarded the offset will be.  At least one switch must always be turned on.  Offset value increases as follows:

  1. 1-ON   2-OFF   3-OFF   4-OFF
  2. 1-OFF   2-ON   3-OFF   4-OFF

  3. 1-ON   2-ON   3-OFF   4-OFF
  4. 1-OFF   2-OFF   3-ON   4-OFF
  5. 1-ON   2-OFF   3-ON   4-OFF
  6. 1-OFF   2-ON   3-ON   4-OFF
  7. 1-ON   2-ON   3-ON   4-OFF
  8. 1-OFF   2-OFF   3-OFF   4-ON
  9. 1-ON   2-OFF   3-OFF   4-ON
  10. 1-OFF   2-ON   3-OFF   4-ON

  11. 1-ON   2-ON   3-OFF   4-ON
  12. 1-OFF   2-OFF   3-ON   4-ON
  13. 1-ON   2-OFF   3-ON   4-ON
  14. 1-OFF   2-ON   3-ON   4-ON
  15. 1-ON   2-ON   3-ON   4-ON

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hello ashley, i disconected the injectors so i can crank the engine to find the correct trigger ofset and i tried all the position of the dip switches that you mention up here but for some reasor i didn`t get a close signal. did i done something wrong? or maybe do i have the wirring of the coils that are swaped? what should i do on this please? thanks jason

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The ECU's Sync Position setting also moves the position of the first cylinder in the firing order.  This will move the timing by 180 crank degrees.  The best thing to do is mark on the cam pulley where TDC no.1 occurs.  Then fire your timing light off the no.1 cylinder.  When cranking you should be able to see how far out the cylinder is firing.  You will see two flashes per cam pulley revolution and should be able to determine if the timing offset needs to be advanced or retarded.

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Oops, I have put you wrong... The G1 does not have a sync position setting... The way that the ECU is wired determines the sync position.  You will have to change your wiring to suit. 

Here is how the decoding works.  After the trigger wheel gap is seen the sub-board counts off the number of teeth set by the dip switches, then fires the cylinder wired to drive 1, then drive 2, then drive 3 etc...   This means you must wire so that the first cylinder that fires after the gap is connected to drive 1, then the next one to drive 2.  You should have injection wired as group fire.  Seeing as you are using only two drives, you only have two options for wiring.  If you swap drive 1 and 2 wiring you will get a 180 degree timing shift.  This may be worth a try.  The offset switches can then be used to get closer to the correct timing.

   I just had a thought... Does your ECU have the correct sub-board fitted?  If it was ordered as a Honda ECU, it may have the wrong sub-board fitted.  It should have a sub-board with a mirco.  If you send a picture of inside the ECU I can tell you if it is the correct one. 

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ashley, so if i swap the wiring of the coils,shoul work? does it give me the 180 degrees? this is the numbers on the sub bourd subcosw6 130206 it was ordered for a 36-1 trigger wheel. if i swap the wiring of the coils,i also have to swap the wiring of the injectors or since it s a group fire it does not make any difference? thanks jason

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That is the correct sub-board...  There is no need to swap injectors in group fire mode.  I cant promise that the engine will run by swapping the coil wiring.  The sub-board is set up for the trigger arrangement used on a Cosworth cylinder engine.  They may position the trigger wheel gap in a different position in the enines firing order than what you have.  You need to determine where the engine is firing then take the appropriate action to correct it.  Swapping the coil wiring will give you a 180 degree shift at the crank.  You will still need to correct the offset using the dip switches.  The dip switches can correct to within one tooth.  Any further fine adjustment (within +/- one tooth) must be done by moving the sensors physical position.

My suggestion is to swap the coil wiring and check on a timing light that the spark is firing somewhere within the proximity of the TDC mark.  A quick way to check if this will help is to put the timing light on the cyl 2/3 coil and check if it is firing near the TDC mark.  If so, then swapping will put the cyl 1/4 coil firing near the TDC mark.

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Hello Ashley. i tried to swap the coil wiring but for some odd reason i have a channel that is not working. even the one of the led s on the link igniter is not lighting up. also the link plus manual says that to run wasted spark i need the sync signal,is this true cause i cant understand what is happening. if no, should i set the sync ratio to na on the lap top cause now i have it 4 ? i wish to fix this problem cause im stucked. thanks jason

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I have just had one of the other tech guys read through this post.  He is our local G1 guru and has been helping answer.  He spotted the problem here.  Your ECU is fitted with a 6 cylinder cosworth sub board.  It should be fitted with a 4 cylinder cosworth sub board labelled SUBCOSW.  The sync/cyl ratio with this sub-board should be set to 2.  You still need the sync/cyl ratio set as the ECU still sees two trigger signals after the sub-board decodes the 36-1 signal.  You will need to get the sub-board replaced, or the sub-board micro re-programmed. 

Sorry I didn't pick up on this earlier...

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Hello Ashley, so you are saying that with a just a chip change i can fix this problem? even the problem of that im not seeing one of the channels on the link ignniter lighting on? from where can i get this chip? and when i replace do it need to be reprogramed or it will be already prior to shipping? thanks jason

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Keep working with Simon (tech@linkECU.com) or whoever you have been dealing with (Thor maybe) to get it sorted.  I cant promise it will make all your problems go away, but it will make the ECU match the engine you are trying to run it on...  The chip or sub-board will be pre-programmed...

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I have just had one of the other tech guys read through this post.  He is our local G1 guru and has been helping answer.  He spotted the problem here.  Your ECU is fitted with a 6 cylinder cosworth sub board.  It should be fitted with a 4 cylinder cosworth sub board labelled SUBCOSW.  The sync/cyl ratio with this sub-board should be set to 2.  You still need the sync/cyl ratio set as the ECU still sees two trigger signals after the sub-board decodes the 36-1 signal.  You will need to get the sub-board replaced, or the sub-board micro re-programmed.

It should be set on 2...

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