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AlexSavv

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Posts posted by AlexSavv

  1. 9 hours ago, Adamw said:

    You're meant to tune the VE table so that the measured AFR matches the AFR target - it doesnt matter if that target is the actual target you will finally use as you can easily change it afterwards.  After calibrating the VE table if you want to try different AFR's you just adjust the AFR target.  So, if you have calibrated the VE table by targeting a different AFR than was in the AFR target table at the time, then your VE is now wrong.

    If the load axis breakpoints on your AFR target table match your fuel table then you should be able to correct the VE table by multiplying a whole row by the same factor that you have changed the target table row by.  So if for instance you adjusted a row in the target table by say 3% leaner, then you want to increase any rows in the VE table that reference that part of the target table by 3% also.  This should end up with the target table corrected with little change to the final AFR. 

    This is exactly what i wanted to know! Thank you,

     

    So my understanding now is, if I had my car tuned on VE, I could update the Target AFR table to MATCH the actual tune after (based on logs).

    To do this I would workout the % difference in Target vs Actual AFR, apply the change in the target table (say +10% for example) and apply the opposite of this to the main table in-order (-10%) to equal it out.

    Slight tweak from there to confirm.

    Thanks Adam.

  2. Hey guys.

    I wanted to ask if there is a way that you can change the Target AFR Table AFTER the main fuel table has been turned, without it having an impact on the mail fuel table.

     

    For example, when actually tuning a new engine you may not know the exact targets you want to use, after a tuning session is complete you might have found how the car likes to run.

    From there, could you update the Target AFR Table to match what you have tuned to WITHOUT it having the open loop effect on the main fuel you have just tuned.

     

    Thanks

  3. If you’re using a dedicated temp channel (I.e.) AN TEMP 3, then there is no need for the pull-up resistor in the wiring as the ECU has them internally.

    if you are using a normal AN VOLT channel, then you need to wire the following:

    Pin 1: +5v with in-line 1kohm pull-up resistor... AND the desired AN volt channel

    Pin 2: Sensor ground 

     

    I harassed Adam about this for ages xD

  4. 13 hours ago, AlexSavv said:

    My ecu only seems to back feed if i let it prime the fuel pump... if it doesn't finish priming the fuel pump, it doesn't back feed... any ideas?

    I solved mine quite easily, followed the wiring instructions and made sure there were no constant hots actually as relay triggers, only ignition switched live.

     

    Add an ignition triggered relay to your injector power circuit, and in fact all circuits, don’t bother with constant hot if you don’t have to!

  5. On 2/3/2019 at 12:45 AM, Adamw said:

    Your wiring sounds correct from your description.  The 5v error usually means there is no sensor connected/open circuit.  I would start by unplugging the main ecu connector and measure resistance between the sensor ground and the analog volt pin, according to their data sheet you should see about 800ohms (@20deg C) if wiring and sensor is good.

     

    Cheers Adam, have sent you a message also :)

  6. Hi guys, sorry for the noob post but..

     

    I’m wiring an oil temp sensor to my Monsoon using a spare AN Volt channel set as GP Temp (external pull-up)

    Im using a 2 pin temp sensor from EFI parts,  https://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=125

     

    I have wire the sensor in the following way: 5v (with external 1k ohm pull-up) and AN Volt 4 to one pin... sensor ground to the other pin. 

     

    Ecu is giving me a fault code saying AN4 at 5v... 

     

    any ideas what I’m doing wrong? 

  7. No no, my relay is wired perfectly fine, for HIGH SIDE!

    I think the manuals and software mislead me as above, why can you select high side and high polarity if the damn function doesn’t work!

     

    Thanks Adam for the response, just need to change the wiring to be low side if that’s the case, no big issue, still love my Link ;)

  8. Hi guys,

    I’m trying to trigger my fuel pump relay using Aux 6 set to High Side and High polarity.

    In the fuel pump settings I have it set to prime for 5 seconds.

    switching the output to test mode and nothing is happening. I’m getting 11.9v out of the AUX 6, and about 8 milliamps.

    does this seem right? Trying to trigger a 30A Picker Micro Relay

     

    When giving the relay 12v from another power source it triggers no problem. The only thing I can think of is that the monsoon isn’t outputting enough current to trigger the relay.

     

    any help or things to check appreciated!

  9. Just another quick question from me as I start to lay out my loom.

     

    monsoon has 2 An Temp inputs, but I want to capture air, water and oil temp

     

    thefefore my question is... can you wire a temp sensor to another AN Input, not a temp specific one?

     

    thanks again!

    Alex

  10. Hey guys,

    wondering if anyone knows if the G4+ models act as voltage regulators? 

     

    Upgrading my alternator to one that doesn’t have a built in voltage regulator, I believe this is because it’s designed to be regulated by the ECU

    wondering if I will blow anything up or does the G4+ platform regulate it for me?

     

    Thanks

    Al

  11. Hey guys,

    wondering if anyone knows how the Link Loom A is put together? 

    Specifially, the monsoon has 1 5v output, does the A Loom splice this multiple times to allow for it to be used across multiple sensors, or is the Loom simply 1 wire per pin?

     

    Thanks

    Al

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