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Adamw

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Adamw last won the day on March 18

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  1. Im pretty sure if MAP is set to kpa units on the gauge it will display correctly. With it set to Psig they just put a fixed -14.7psi offset on MAP, they dont actually use the BAP value.
  2. With an old school 2 wire coil the "secondary ground" is connected internally to the positive post of the coil, a "condenser" is needed to provide a path for the spark voltage that has just jumped the spark plug gap to return back to the coil. Without a filter (or with a not working filter) then the spark voltage has to travel through the whole electrical system to get back to the coil via the ignition switch to the positive post. Andy Wyatt explains the basic idea starting around 8:25 in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1HfbXyYzSM There are a couple of variations of suppressors on early toyota's, search part numbers 90980-05179 or 90980-04084 to get an idea what they look like. They connect between the coil positive and ground, usually very close to the coil.
  3. You have injection mode set to sequential but the injectors in a GTR/GTX are only wired in two groups. Inj 3 is the fuel pump relay. Aux 3 is the low speed resistor bypass. Correct setup should be something like below for this car with stock wiring.
  4. MR2's with distributors seem to be a bit of a problem child, probably the most common car I see comms issues reported on by far. From the few users I have helped with the issue I havent yet seen a common trend. The first one I looked at closely I found his comms issues mostly occurred at idle or when coming down to idle, turning off idle ignition control solved it so I assumed the large swing in ign timing was more than the rotor phasing would allow so the spark was possibly jumping off the end of the rotor to something that had a more direct connection to the ecu. The 2nd one had similar symptoms but turning off idle ignition control didnt solve it in that case. I got him to double check rotor phasing and that looked ok. With most other common stuff like resistor spark plugs and leads etc checking out ok I asked him to look at the ignitor and how it was grounded etc, he found there was a lot of corrosion where the ignitor or bracket mounted and also found the factory noise suppressor was open circuit at the same time (possibly the bad ground fizzed the suppressor?). He fixed both those at the same time and they solved his issue so Im not sure which one was the main culprit. Then the 3rd one was a bit different, it would lose coms at high load and sometimes a trigger issue would occur at the same time, we checked through most common stuff as above and couldn't find anything obvious. I dont remember if we actually checked the suppressor in that car - or maybe he said it didnt have one. Anyhow he wanted to change to coil on plug anyway so rather than spend more time diagnosing he just did that and both the comms issue and trigger error disappeared. That was still using the dizzy for the trigger. So my first suggestion is if you have idle ign control enabled then try with idle ign off. Check the ignitor ground and suppressor (most multimeters have a capacitor test) and confirm the other common causes such as HT leads, distributor cap/button etc.
  5. Yes you can do this. I thought I had already given you examples of how to set this up a couple of times in the past. Attach a copy of your tune and I will set up an example.
  6. The accessory loom is this one: https://dealers.linkecu.com/WBLOOM The plug is a Mini-Universal MATE-N-LOK, try part number 172338-1 or 172167-1
  7. You have a fuel pressure problem that you want to solve, so I wouldn't dismiss the sensor calibration straight away, especially when it is obviously out by a factor of at least 100. The units in PC Link are Kpa, not bar. Even if you think it is just a "decimal point" issue, you have 100X less resolution than you should have and the differential fuel pressure calculation wont work with it set as it is. Where did you get the greedy calibration data from? Most Greddy products to use proprietary calibrations and they dont normally make the data available. If it were me I would replace it with a sensor that has known accurate data.
  8. No, the '340 sensor as with 99.9% of all bosch NTC's definitely uses the standard bosch calibration, 2500ohms at 20°C. The 0280130017 is a rare calibration, the only application I know of is a cyl head temp sensor that was only used for a couple of years in the seventies on VW engines with d-jetronic. Air cooled cyl head and 12V pull-up, hence the unusual calibration
  9. So does it have a separate single cam tooth for trigger 2 sync? Or are you using cam level sync mode or something?
  10. I have used that same booster with other toyota's successfully. From memory it has a pull-up built in on the input side anyway but Im not sure why the 10K worked, but not the 1K, either should be fine and I wouldnt expect those to change the signal that the booster sees at all. Unfortunately hard to diagnose without a scope connected to confirm waveforms etc. You could possibly use the triggerscope as a tool by running a jumper wire from the tacho into trigger 1. Did you try larger duty cycle in the tacho settings?
  11. Attach a copy of your tune and a PC log of a start attempt.
  12. The rising edges are evenly spaced so you can use the "3 evenly spaced teeth" vvt mode. What is it using for trigger mode?
  13. G4 has CAN transmit only, no receive. i.e. the ecu can send data to a dash display or logger for example, but it cant receive data from a lambda device.
  14. What tacho booster do you have? Where are you wiring the pull-up?
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