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Adamw last won the day on January 21

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  1. Correct. You have what is commonly known as a "high level" tacho. It needs something like a 30-50V spike on the signal wire from the coil to register. To trigger from an ecu it will need to be modified so a lower voltage signal (typically 5-12V square wave) can make it through the conditioning circuit. The same mod they use for a subaru ECU would be fine for the Link ecu. An alternative to modifying the tach is to fit a tacho booster such as this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/142171581596
  2. I think Haltech should be the best to ask for this. If speed is showing on the dash then it should be able to calculate distance.
  3. Adamw

    First time G4x user

    The diagrams in the quick start guide are newer than the full manual. Notice the relay in the preferred diagram has only the lambda connected to it, the diagram labelled alternative shows the lambda getting power from the ECU relay (which will also have many inductive devices connected to it such as injectors and idle valve etc).
  4. Adamw

    Plug in Nissan 350ZLink

    Yes, the 350Z plug-in does work with the auto. In terms of tuning there is quite a bit of work to do to get all the torque reductions for gearshift working nicely, this really needs to be done on a dyno. The G4X has a torque management function that is quite simple to set up - but you need a dyno to calibrate the torque multiplier value so that the ECU is predicting engine torque well compared to real numbers. The torque request table also needs realistic torque values in it that matches actual engine output. Then you need to tune the torque reduction part - the G4X will use a combination
  5. For now set your MAP sensor calibration to Subaru V7-8, I reckon that should get it close enough to allow it to run.
  6. Yeah, but your calibration is obviously wrong. Why would a 2 bar sensor have a 450Kpa calibration point? Do you have a link to the sensor or a datasheet?
  7. Ok, tech support emailed me your files. BTW, you can just attach them here next time. There was no log file though - just 2 copies of the map and the trigger scope. I think I see the potential issue without seeing the log anyhow. The MAP sensor calibration is wrong, it is showing 238kpa with the engine off - it should show the same as the BAP (baro) which was 101.1kpa. Your MAP limit for your current coolant temp was 160Kpa, so you would have had a full ignition cut since it is "over boosting".
  8. Adamw

    4efte start up map

    Map attached. You will need to set up all the inputs and outputs to match your wiring, and you will need to adjust the trigger offset using a timing light. 4EFTE Monsoon start map 24T distributor.pclx
  9. Adamw

    G4X monsoonX Dc5 k20

    There is no easy option. We are actually working on a plug-in for the DC5 but it will have extra hardware to look after the mpx. It is still some time off. I havent seen any commercially available products. You would need to reverse engineer it yourself and develop your own micro controller and hardware interface.
  10. Can you explain this better? You want one button press to turn off table 1 and a separate button to turn on table 2? Usually just one button would be required to swap tables? Or have you got three tables?
  11. Ok that would usually suggest the trigger is working. But lets do a trigger scope just to confirm. Ill attach a video below to show how to do a triggerscope, make sure you only click the capture button when the engine is already turning. Save the scope as a log. Do us a short PC log of it cranking too. Attach the scope, the log, and a copy of your map here and Ill take a look. What's it got for an ignition system? MSD and single coil? How to do trigger scope: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=FffhYa
  12. Adamw

    G4X monsoonX Dc5 k20

    I believe the multiplex is a k-line based communication. There is no K-line transceiver in the Monsoon.
  13. Yours setup doesnt sound far away from what Id expect to work. Do you have RPM showing in the software when cranking?
  14. What voltages do the different buttons give you? What happens if you press two at a time?
  15. I've seen several or our customers using the T1 trigger successfully. The only problem one I remember was where the user had been sold a faulty wheel that had all of the magnets glued in the same way (The sync magnet is meant to be opposite pole). Also, the standard trigger is fine for sequential/COP.
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