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Everything posted by Adamw

  1. CAN DI9 you would use start bit 8 in the xml and start pos 15 in the ecu set up. An output would be done as per the knock warning lamp in stream 10 in my original example file.
  2. Note you can download an updated help file for G1 to G3 ecus that will run in modern windows from here: https://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink G1 to G3 Help.chm Once you download you will have to unblock it. To do this, right click on it, select properties, then check the "unblock" check box
  3. You are on old firmware, User CAN was only added in 4.8.0. I suggest you update to the latest 4.10.2
  4. Have you got the blue/pink lock thing slide over to one side as per my pic below?
  5. Bit number zero is usually the least significant bit (right hand end of the byte, bit number 7 is the left hand end. From wikipedia:
  6. Connect the signal wire to any DI, set the DI to one of the wheel speeds, set pull-up to on. Calibration number can be calucluated using the formula in the help file or just drive it at a known speed (GPS on your phone or similar) and tweak the calibration number until speed in the software matches you phone. In Chassis & Body menu assign your new wheel speed as both driven and non-driven wheel. In the Engine protection menu set up the speed limiter. Set the ON/off control to the DI you pit limiter switch is connected to, set the target speed. Usually you will need to set the speed limit to advanced mode and tweak the limiter setting to get a smooth limit at the correct speed.
  7. Front 02 is AN Volt 4 (pin 76), the rear 02 is not connected to any input in our ECU. You will have to move the wideband wire to the front 02 pin or you can use one of the spare AN Volt pins such as Air flow meter on pin 90 (ANV2) or the MAP on pin 73 (ANV8), or one on the expansion port.
  8. Your PID is poorly tuned, the throttle control gets an oscilation in it so TP bounces back and forwards, not settling on target, Throttle shuts down once the TP/Target error accumulator reaches 100. If you attach your tune I can possibly suggest some changes, otherwise it should go back to the tuner.
  9. It looks like it is not happy about something trigger related, the RPM drops to zero during cranking every couple of seconds. Can you do a triggerscope while cranking and I will take a look. Make sure yoiu only click the capture button when the engine is turning and keep it cranking for a couple of seconds after that. Secondly, the fuel table is not suitable for modelled mode, usually VE numbers will need to be around 60 at idle and 100 at WOT. Import the fuel table below as a closer starting point. (right click on your existing fuel table, then >import/export>import from file. VE Fuel Table .lte
  10. It should work. You will likely have to do a custom calibration for the temp sensor.
  11. Trigger 1 & 2 are swapped. You have the 24T signal on trig 2 and the single tooth on trig 1. Swap the trig 1/2 wires at the CAS plug and it should be happier.
  12. Change the parameter in the user stream to whichevr DI you want to receive it as. Frame ID is added on to the base ID. The dash2pro stream sends out 4 sequential frames and we have it set up on ID1000. So Dash2pro stream uses ID's 1000, 1001, 1002 & 1003. You will see at the top of the xml file the base ID is set to 1000 and the frame ID 0,1,2,3 cover the dash2pro stream. i.e. Base ID1000 + frame ID3 = 1003. The frame ID 4 covers the "transmit user stream *" that you have sent on ID1004. The frame ID5 covers the "receive user stream *" on ID1005. The bit positions are explained in red in a pic in the original realdash example. So your start bits to match your xml would be 7,6 & 5
  13. Ok, you need to click capture while it is cranking. That would explain why there is no signal in those scopes. Can you do another
  14. With ECU connected, if you go to >help>ecu information, what is the maincode firmware verison? And if you go to >help>about, what is the PC Link version?
  15. Was the engine cranking when you clicked the capture button? (not clicked before cranking).
  16. You dont nesecarily need a B loom, but knock is on the B plug. So you would need the B plug and a shielded cable to run from that to the knock sensor. "Flywheel supply" is an internal circuit that the flyback diodes on the aux outputs dump any large voltage spikes to.
  17. Another option is this: https://www.micropdm.com/products/p/micropdm This connects to the Blink keypad and handles all the logic such as toggle/flash/count and the LED's etc. All the button "outputs" can be sent to the ECU via CAN as well as some of the pins on the relay can be controlled by the buttons too.
  18. Adamw

    Random questions

    With G4+ a MAP is the easiest option. For an idle valve with ITB's you need some kind of common manifold for the valve so you can just attach your MAP to that. Load equation set to MAP will take care of baro at the same time too. I have done this on a few cars now and it works well. With G4X an alternative option to using MAP to compensate for the idle air is you can use a 4D fuel table with idle position on one axis. It would be a bit more work to calibrate the table though.
  19. That would suggest the ecu is getting no signal from the crank or cam sensor or both.
  20. Cold correction is a multiplier so multiplying by zero at 80/90deg means you will have no accel fuel when warm. It is normal to have values of 1.0 at normal temperature and in modelled mode you usually dont need much extra when cold. My car has 1.0 right across. Also I suggest you enable Async injection like below, this reduces the need for accel fuel a lot.
  21. Ok, trigger wise everything looks good. There are a few things that jump out in the tune as not ideal, but none that I would expect to make a big difference to the peak power achieved. More so stuff that will cause day to day variation of lambda. Some comments in no particular order: Fuel equation load source is set to MAP, but there is no MAP sensor fitted. It should be set to BAP in this case so changes in baro are taken care of. Injector Short Pulse Width adder has some pretty large values considering it has small injectors. At 0.75ms it is removing 0.24ms which is like 30% of the fuel. Doesnt seem right. This should be zeroed out unless someone has especially characterised these injectors. IAT fuel trim is still active, this would normally be turned off when using modelled mode as it is already compensated for by the charge temp approximation. Accel cold correction table is all zeros so accel enrichment wont work at all. This will likely cause lean patches and flatspots whenever you move the throttle. Charge temp approximation table has MGP on the load axis but since there is no MAP sensor this wont work. This should really use TP in this case. Injector timing looks very odd, not saying it is wrong, but usually 350-400 is more what I expect to see for an engine with injectors close to the intake valves. Ignition timing looks quite soft, especally at low loads. I cant say this with confidence since I havent tuned a beams 3S, but on the Gen 2 & 3 3S engines I would usually have 40-45deg in there at cruise and prob 35 up to half throttle or so. Even the WOT row looks a bit softer than I expect. I dont know your fuel or compression etc so dont take this as gospel but my feeling is there is a lot of mid range torque and drivability missing due to this. Possibly a little at WOT. Knock control set-up doesnt look correct at all, with a gain of 30, and low thresholds. Higher thresholds at 2000RPM than 4000 seems odd. So this could potentially be pulling timing out often - no sign in the short log but it is definately a long way off expected settings so I would probably disable it for now. Suspect the wiring is no good or the sensor is dead. Intake VVT looks to be working ok in the log but throttle wasnt opened ennough to confirm Exhaust VVt is working. Again I dont have any hands on experience with the beams, but the exhaust VVT targets look a bit odd with no retard until 50% throttle. With some engines the exhaust makes bugger all difference so this could be the case here, but it just seems a bit odd is all. Idle ignition control is not working because the MAP lockout is set to 50kpa but you dont have a MAP sensor. So setting this up correctly will make it nicer to drive. For ITB's I would also usually set the Ignition idle target much lower and open throttles more so it has enough air to idle by itself during cold start. Your flywheel supply voltage is very low in the log (should normally be close to batt voltage) - this is internal in the Xtreme so Im not sure what would cause that or if it is a problem, but I will ask one of the engineers tomorrow if it is anything to be worried about. Firmware is very old. No show stopper bugs that I remember, but there have been a lot of improvements and bug fixes since 6.16 so definately update before tuning further.
  22. Do you have realistic engine speed showing in the software when cranking? Should be ~180-250RPM.
  23. So its a wire-in G4+ xtreme? Is the blue LED to the left of the connecters glowing? Is there a Link ECU showing under COM ports in windows device manager? Do you have any other cables plugged into the round COM port below the USB port?
  24. Adamw

    Random questions

    -0001 is the part number for the sensor and gauge kit. -0002 is the part number for the sensor only. They are still €300 though.
  25. Adamw

    G4 logging

    You dont have a log open though. You need to be connected to the ecu or have a log open that is from the ECU with the label set up.
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