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Everything posted by Adamw

  1. 3 wire pressure sensors you can usually share the signal - so for instance the one oil pressure sensor could be connected to both the gauge and the ecu. You will potentially lose a little accuracy as the sensor is not referencing the ECU 5V or sensor ground but for oil pressure high accuracy is not usually critical. It is useful to have both fuel and oil pressure in the ecu as you can use them for engine protection strategies as well as fuel pressure compensation in the tune. For your oil temp sensor it could possibly be shared but you will have to do a bench test to confirm the pull up
  2. Yep that is normal. I havent asked anyone to get an explanation direct from the horses mouth, but based on my very crude understanding my guess would be when changing the ignition mode the processosor that does all the degrees based engine processing (eTPU) does some kind of re-initialise and the tacho sweep is probably run as part of its initialisation sequence.
  3. Adamw

    2 Slight problems

    Need more info. What ecu, what car? Has it been tuned? Please attach a log of the stall and a copy of your tune.
  4. It is connected to the same power supply as coils and injectors and idle valve, these are all inductive devices so every time they turn off they send a high voltage spike back down the wire, sometimes as high as a couple of hundred volts. The CAN lambdas are particularly sensitive to these inductive spikes. The CAN lambda quick start guide shows 2 alternative diagrams. The first one uses its own relay connected directly to the battery (the battery will filter out a lot of these spikes). The alternative diagram shows it powered from the ECU relay like you have here so it uses a 22uF c
  5. Ok, that looks like an old one. Here is the current: http://linkecu.com/documentation/MonsoonXQuickstartGuide.pdf
  6. The dyno gets its RPM signal by calculating from the roller speed. The roller is very heavy metal with hhigh inertia so it cant quickly change speed - so naturally the data will be smoother. Also, that graph has relatively heavy software "smoothing" applied.
  7. This is not really an error or fault, it is just some diagnostics messages that were recently added to help diagnose communications issues.
  8. Ok, weird. I have loaded your map into my test thunder and as far as I can see both motor outputs are working as expected. A few weird differences between throttle 1 & 2 settings though probably just due to you messing around troubleshooting. A couple of things I want you to try to eliminate a few variables. Do us a new log after making these changes: Set Aux 9 frequency to 500Hz. Set both E-throttle 1 and E-throttle 2 to set up mode. Change E-throttle 2 target table setting to "E-throttle target 1". Change PID in E-throttle 2 to match E-throttle 1. Ch
  9. That looks fine and normal to me. What is your concern?
  10. No you can have up to 6 devices on the same CAN port, receiving and transmitting together is fine. CAN lambda actually even has both transmit and receive (exhaust pressure and RPM is sent to the CAN lambda). Can you just attach your map so I can do a quick check of your settings. If there are no CAN errors showing on the CAN runtimes screen then it means the dash must be receiving the ID it expects because if the dash wasnt it wouldnt set the acknowledge bit and the ECU would show acknowledge errors.
  11. The easiest option is to use the "SwOff Timer" setting on your GP output - this allows you to keep the output on for a max of 25sec after the trigger. Alternatively, if you want the light to stay on permanent then you will have to add a virtual aux like below. In this example if my oil press (AN V4) drops below 25psi the aux will turn on and stay on until ignition reset. You will have to add some conditions so it doesnt trip during start up etc. Suggest using the GP limiters as they have a start up delay - then use the GP limit status to trip your light/virtual aux.
  12. For a hall sensor the lower threshold is 1.0V. So to be considered a valid "tooth", the voltage needs to rise above 1.5V, and fall below 1.0V. So 0.5V should be fine and it is pretty common to see the lower voltage around that level.
  13. Looking at the log again I see it is being driven hard closed (TP sub and main showing 0%). If the motor was getting no power then it would sit at the spring balance point which is usually partially open around 6-10%. So it almost seems like the motor +/- are backwards. I would try swapping the aux 17/18 pins at the ecu connector and see if anything changes.
  14. I dont see any reason why that wouldnt work. But you only need to move 1 pin. You dont need to cut any wires or anything, just extract the pin out of the connector and move it to the new position.
  15. Yeah I agree, not great wording on my part. What I was trying to cover is if those particular coils only have a single ground pin or multiple. Probably K20 coils with 3 wires if I were to hazard a guess. Some coils have more than a single ground wire - and when they do they are usually connected to circuits that are better to be kept as separate loops. For instance the common IGN1a, they have 3 isolated grounds - secondary winding ground goes to cyl head, primary winding ground goes to batt neg, logic ground goes to ecu sensor ground. They would usually work fine all connected to th
  16. What is is the ignition systems? Is it twin plugs per cyl via a single distributor?
  17. Ok those injectors should work fine for secondaries. I have attached a pic of the secondary deadtime table from our FD which has indy blues. I have no idea how realistic they are but it works and unless you have no alternator then deadtimes are generally not so critical for secondaries. All Link ecu's have a baro sensor on board. For a turbo car if you use MGP on the fuel table Y axis that will give you pretty good baro compensation automatically. Yes that CAN lambda should be fine. I just looked at their documentation and it gives the CAN ID's hich is a good start but it is
  18. Earlier you said that the throttle 2 moves in "test" mode (assume you mean setup mode) but not in ON mode. But it is not moving in either of those logs. Do you measure voltage on the E-throttle 2 motor +/- wires? - it is showing 95% DC so should be near 10V or so.
  19. A couple of extra comments from me too. Although yours is more drawn as a schematic than a wiring diagram, so your intent may be not be to wire as drawn - but if the coils a 3 wire only, then that single ground should be grounded to the cyl head - not back to the ecu. Also, the CAN lambda, since it is connected to a "noisy" power source, I would suggest adding the 22uf cap into its power supply/connector. For basic 4 cyl installs you can also get away with just a single power supply relay for everything, so you can do that if you want to simplify. I have attached a generi
  20. After giving it some thought, you can use the factory MAP sensor, move the map sensor signal wire from pin 85 to pin 90 at the ecu connector. The Factory MAP sensor will then be connected to "Load 2" input.
  21. Yeah that would be the basic idea. How well you can tune it on the street will depend on how much time you have. Its a whole lot easier on a dyno when you can hold it at a specific RPM and load while tuning. Yes CLL will take care of changes like that, although I suspect your problems were probably more due to the very basic microtech, that doesnt even have baro compensation and probably the injectors too. As for the Indy blues they are horrible injectors. I think everyone gave up using them in about 1995. Especially as primaries they are nasty as anything below about 2ms pulsewidt
  22. Can you explain better what you want to do? Generally if the CE light comes on it will stay on until you manual clear the error. Also what ecu do you have?
  23. I would suggest always having the "Open Loop Lambda" table turned on. What this does is factors the lambda target into the fuel calculation. So, if you turn the fuel table so that the measured lambda matches what is in the target table, then later if you want to try any changes to fuel mixture in future (say for instance you want to try leaning it off a bit in the cruise area) then you just need to change the target and the actual lambda will follow - you dont need to retune the fuel table everytime you want to adjust the mixture. As for Closed loop - it is not designed for tuning and
  24. Yes that is fine to have both the dash and CAN lambda both connected to CAN 1. Are you saying the Lambda is currently working but the dash is not?
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