SidewayzSkyvia

Wow I didn't realize the original one wasn't scaled to 60psi. I'm ok with starting over on the tune. I don't have much time into it. So I guess I'll stick with the new linear cal table and redo the fuel map.

Here is a copy of the tune. Cal table 1 is the one I've been using to tune on, that I'm sure is wrong. Linear cal table 2 is the new one that I believe is right. But I have to raise the ve substantially to get it to idle properly. new map test.pclx

The old values I did 0v being 0psi and 5v being 60psi on cal table 1 and interpolated horizontally. The second one I made was on linear cal 2 as 0.5v being 0psi and 4.5v being 60psi. It runs great on the original calibration but I don't think it's reading boost or vacuum properly. It calibrated with both cal files. But I'm suspicious it's not reading properly.

I got the boost control working. But I think my map sensor scaling is wrong. I also tried both can options. All the abs/trac lights remain on regardless of can option. The temp gauge also appears to be on the wrong stream maybe? If I open can setup, go to can devices and click on find devices on can module 1, the temp gauge will sit in the middle. If I click on find devices on can module 2, the gauge will drop to full cold for a few seconds then return to full hot. And when I close out the can setup page the gauge moves back to full hot.

I think when I initially did the scaling for the Cobb 4 bar map sensor I have, I did it wrong. P/n a12100 I think I have it set properly now. But I'm not sure. I had to add a ton to the ve map to get it to idle properly. From mid 50s to 88 on the ve. Which makes me think the new settings I entered may be wrong. Or I have something else setup improperly. So I'm just curious if anybody has used this Cobb sensor before and if they know what the scaling values should be. Thanks. (ecu is g4x Xtreme)

Ok I'll try the button start can mode to see if that changes anything. The car is key start so I loaded that mode originally. But I'll give the other one a shot to see if anything changes. And yea I changed some stuff in the wg duty cycle table. But it didn't seem to work so I put it back to the base map values. I must have sent you a tune file I saved after I set it back. Seeing this though I think I just got confused on the boost target table axis for being gauge pressure instead of absolute pressure. So I'll try raising the target up and hopefully that will get me a good result.

I got the AC figured out. I guess I fat fingered a couple cells in the timing map and it just wasn't making enough power to stay on. Copied the base map timing back over and it works good now. Still haven't been able to figure out the temp gauge part. But the tach and everything else is working. There is a trac light and hill assist light on which I'm not worried about though. And another issue I'm having is the car is only making 10psi. Looks like wg duty cycle is dropping down to 5% even though it's set to closer to 30% duty cycle. I'm new to closed loop cost control, everything looks right(I think) but it's dropping. Here's a copy of the tune and a log of driving around a bit in case it helps out. Log 1.llgx wrx xtreme.pclx

2011 wrx with a g4x Xtreme ecu and boomslang adapter. I got the Pinout assignment sorted. Got the car started and running using the wrx v11 can bus protocol. But I've noticed that the coolant gauge always reads full hot. I was wondering if the OEM gauge goes over can bus, and if there is a setting I need to change to fix it. Reads fine in PC link but physical gauge doesn't. I'm also trying to get the AC to function properly. I got it to work on basic mode but sometimes the idle up doesn't work and the engine will stall. I've tried a few settings. But sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. So I'm not sure what's going on with it. And if there's a setting somewhere I'm not seeing that needs to be changed. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Yea I made a spreadsheet with both 07-10 and 11-14 and only 15 wires line up. So it would appear this car has the Hitachi Pinout even though the ecu case says denso. Guess I won't be putting a link in this car after all.

Think I figured it out. I checked for power and grounds at the ecu going off the Pinout in the manual. A7 should be b+, but there's no wire in that hole. And b2 should be b+, and there's no wire in that hole. Car is a us delivered 2011 wrx. So this ecu should be plug and play. But it appears this harness doesn't have the powers in the right spot.

I'm having an issue to where I cannot connect to this new Wrx11X ecu. Using auto connection settings it just searches. Using manual connection settings and pointing to towards the correct com port results in a 1005 error code. I've tried all USB ports, I even tried a USB hub as something I read said that worked for them. But nothing seems to work. Ecu is brand new. Trying to get access to it so I can get it unlocked and set it up. I had pclink G4+ installed as well. I uninstalled all pclink and reinstalled new pclink g4x. Drivers seem to install properly. Ecu shows up in device manager under USB and ports. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hey, I'm putting a Wrx11X into a vehicle that has an iBuildRacecars FLX01 kit already installed. I was wondering if I will be able to maintain this kit ran to the left tgv wiring and be able to use it with this ecu. Thanks.

It looks like it didn't go through the first time. But another email has been sent and the ticket number given is #40255

I sent an email into to the tech support through the linkecu website but I haven't received anything back yet. So maybe it didn't go through. I can send another one if need be.

Ok cool. Yea I sent in email in but it appears the tech support is away for a few days. So I was seeing if anybody on here knew what it would take. And Im sure I have at least 3 avi open. So i guess I'll wait to hear back from tech support. Thanks for your reply.

Hello, I've been told that it's possible to add dbw to my n300+ ecu. It's running a rb25det series 1 so it's single throttle. I'm currently not using any of the expansion pins. I've heard there needs to be aux 9/10 added. I see its possible to use the external e throttle module but I would prefer to do it on the ecu if it's possible. So just wondering what I need to do to make it happen? Thanks.

So I have an rb25det s1 running with a link g4+ 300zx ecu. I'm trying to slow the spark cut rev limiter down. It currently sounds like spark blowout/misfire when I hit the rev limiter. I would like to slow it down to sound more like a stock rev limiter but can't seem to figure the settings out. I've tried a bunch of stuff but its still a very rapid limiter. Basically just looking for suggestions on settings to use that will slow it down. Thanks for any and all help.

I'm going to be adding a flex fuel sensor to my car here soon. As far as wiring it up, would I be able to wire it to my mass airflow sensor plug as I'm not using that sensor with my G4+? If I did my research right it looks like there is +12v, 0-5v sense, and ground pins at the maf plug. So I'm guessing I can do it this way but just want to be 100% sure. Thanks.

Sorry if this has been asked a million times. But I have a g4+ 300zx ECU on my car. I'm wanting to go drive by wire using a Bosch 82mm throttle. I'm curious if I have to run the external e throttle module you sell, or if it's possible to use existing ECU hardware? Reading I've seen stuff about adding aux 9/10 for this functionality. But I just want to see if this is an option for my ECU as the ethrottle modules seem hard to come by in the states from my searching. Also would I be able to use a z33/350z pedal with this throttle body as they are as close to a bolt in swap as I can find for my car. Thanks.

So I'm having an issue. I have an rb25det series 1 in my car with a Borg Warner s366 with a .91 a/r turbine housing hanging off the side of it. With my previous ecu/ROM tune the turbo seemed to spool a bit better. With my new g4+ the turbo feels a lot lazier than it used to. So I'm mainly just wondering if there's something I can do with the tune to help bring boost on a bit earlier. Any help is appreciated.

That would make sense. I can't say I've ever seen one used with a different ecu system either. But yeah I have a Holley terminator x max here that is going to eventually make it's was into a car when we get finished with it.

Just wondering if it is possible to use one of the Holley 3.5" can displays that comes with their ecu with a link g4+? I'm not interested in bi directional can control. I was just wondering if it would be possible, and easy enough to use one as a basic can dash display. As I have an extra one sitting around from another car. Thanks

Ok so I haven't been able to test sensor yet as my multimeter has decided it doesn't want to work. But I started the car again today and now it has a weird random misfire. It will mis a bit. Then the idle will wander, afr changes from 13.5 to around 15 and then back. If I richen it up to around 12:1 though it doesn't misfire anymore. My aem gauge and the ECU both reporting same readings within .1-.3 of each other. This thing keeps throwing me through a loop. Here's a log if anybody wants to take a look and see if you can see if it's a tune issue or just my crappy car. misfire idle.llg

Ok I'll measure it when I get some time tomorrow. It's not acting crazy. It just doesn't seem like it's accurate because it was idling for around 30 min and was only around 162*f, So 70ish C. Probably is a bad sensor but it's always nice to get a sanity check from someone else. Especially being so new to this ECU.

Ok, so I have my n300+ setup and running in my car. Calibrated the AEM wideband, setup the GM iat sensor. Those seem to be working fine. But I'm still using the oem ECT sensor. And no preset calibrations seem to work properly. So I was wondering if I'm missing something or if I need to make my own Cal table? Or does anybody know if there is a recommended sensor to use that will fit my engine? If my research has done me right I believe the thread size is m12x1.75. Thanks.