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oversteer

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Posts posted by oversteer

  1. If your not making stupid HP and or are tuned for all its got they are OK-ish, very susceptible to fuels with stuff they don't like(even fuels that don't have MTBE or any know bad stuff in them) and sometimes inconsistent on pump E85.

    They do all sorts of weird stuff, get 4 new ones and flow them and some will be on spec, some flow less....a lot flow more straight out of the box.

    Just about everyone around here was using them, they were cheap and controllable at small openings, been a year or 3 since everyone has ditched them for smaller(they didn't need the size) or Siemen Deka's which are rock solid with any fuel.

    Don't the ones you buy in  Raceworks box have a sticker or a little card in them that states "No warranty when used with liquid fuels" ?

    They are a un-modified CNG injector, the 220lb Deka's were too but have been updated to work right with liquid fuels.

  2. Got the intercooler on, plumbed and system filled with coolant, but don't seem to be able to get EMP pump to make a noise !

     

    I have noticed one issue with the CAN set-up, the EMP pump is on CAN2...set-up looks like its all on CAN1.

    Can you have a squiz at this for me please Adam ?

    You may notice in tune I have a switch on DI9 that activates the 12v "run" wire to the pump through Aux17 & Virt Aux7 .... this also doesn't make the pump run, although it may be the case that if the pump see's can data it ignores this wire power OR it needs it also to start/power up, tried both ways....pumps silent !

    EG33Thunder Start Mod.pclr

  3. Hello

    Planning to start up and run in a new motor shortly, I have fitted 60lbs hr(630cc) Siemens Deka injectors to run engine in, and then power tune will be using 2450cc Siemens Deka's on E85(car will be flex fuel, has sensor fitted).

    Question is how much re-tuning is involved with modeled fueling when i change the injectors ? 

    Would it be quicker to setup the run in tune(will be on 98) with traditional fueling tables and go to modeled multifuel only when the final larger injectors are installed ?

    Cheers

  4. Hello

    I'm looking at doing the dash properly and replacing the whole subaru dash with the Link MXS Strada street version, I've looked around for a manual/pinout on how the indicators, high beam, warning light etc wire up to the dash with-out luck.... can anyone tell me how these wire to the dash ?

    Cheers 

  5. Ok i see what you mean about it being symmetrical ..... trigger grounds come from A-24 Gnd out, which is shared with APS, TPS,, pressure sensors(MAP, OP, FP, Crankcase, Exh left and right) and 4 Temp sensors(ETS, IAT, Oil, IC coolant)...... that is a lot a stuff of that sensor ground, is there a better way of doing it ? 

    Loom B-22 has gear position and shift knob on it....D-5 has FP current sensors..

    Looking at this FSM wiring diagram, the factory sensor ground goes to "Joint connector A, on 2nd page" and then to everywhere and everything....

    BPBL5 3.0 Engine Wiring.pdf

  6. Swapped the wires and it looks right now, I'm cranking engine with plugs in and not the strongest battery(120-130rpm in link).....and it sounds like every cylinder doesn't have the same compression(not sure why...).... that would be the reason for the uneven wave form i'd say !

    Capture2.PNG

  7. Hello

     

    I have taken a trigger scope of the car, pretty sure setup to use on subaru with these reluctor sensors is falling, however I am unsure of sensor polarity as i have them arranged in a non standard fashion, can anyone tell from the trigger scope if the signal is indeed falling ? or do i need to reverse the wires on the sensor ?

     

    Cheers

     

     

    Capture1.PNG

  8. Hello

    I need to set-up shift cut etc on a Subaru Modena sequential box, have used this box before on an EJ with an M800 MoTeC making 700+whp, worked pretty well in closed loop mode with only issue being exhaust bang on gear change ;

     

    Specs for the gear knob were -40-0-40Kg, in the motec setup this was 3v-3.726v-4.5v, which looking at it was likely not calibrated that well but upshift force used was 15Kg, the box did like/needed a fair amount of preload on stick(before ign retard unloaded dogs and allowed shift) to effected a good change under 850+fwhp with wheels spinning etc.

    The link set-up is in Newtons, what would the conversion be from Kg ?

    Gear change cut timings in M800 were all minimum settings(Delay 0.001, Recovery 0.010) with the exception of 1st-2nd(Delay 0.006) with a .5sec timeout.

    This set-up worked and was effective, but testing and tuning on the street or drag strip(no cage etc to run 9s) was difficult...car was very quick, violent and loud at that power level lol

    Any other tips on setting up the sequential settings ? New set-up will have more power(~1200whp) and again in a non caged street registered car so anything i can do to nail down some ball park settings with-out risking license and life would be very valuable. Car s being built to compete in a specific event but has to be debugged well before...

    Cheers

  9. Hello

    I want to switch on a relay via an output(Ign7)with a grounded signal on  DI8 .... I can see how the logic works for a voltage on a AN input, but "DI8 Speed" is the only thing i can see for a DI as a condition... is it some value using that ? 

    Cheers

  10. FSM says it has a 30amp fuse which runs ECU, a bunch of sensors and solenoids no longer connected and the injectors... searching this topic i did come across something about don't power lambda(might have been can lambda) shared with any inductive load(injectors).... Is that still the case with powering lambda sensors ?

     

  11. Hello

     I'm installing the wires and adding the plugs for the 2 lambda sensors and I have just realised that the Link wants all 6 wires connect to the sensor.... I've run 5 as I looked at the link wiring table and it listed 5,  and some of the wiring I'm using came from a MoTeC install, which only uses 5 wires !

    Anyway, I now need to run that 6th wire which is "Ignition switched 12v", is it wise to use the ECU's 12v power supply for this ? In this case the ECU is power via the original Subaru wiring "Control module power supply", or would it be better to add another circuit/relay and fuse for the 2 lambda sensors 12v?

    Cheers

     

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