xxcryptorchidxx

After more than a year of just driving around with the car, the original cause for the high values finally popped up. 
 
So, in Evo III you only have CAS to measure engine. Nothing on the crankshaft. Timing seemed to be fine all the time and all the marks were correct. Maybe a month ago the car lost all HP and had no power at all. I tried everything to find the reason. Timing was checked multiple times and nothing there, bought a ton of new parts and changed them, tried logging all the sensors etc. ECU thought there was nothing wrong with the car, everything seemed normal. Finally I rolled the CAS a bit to give some more advance. That actually did help so I thought it is a faulty CAS. But no. There is a little gear in the crankshaft end for the timing belt that is well hidden behind plastic and main pulley. There was a piece missing in that gear, and crankshaft key was in a totally wrong position. 
So after all, it surely was a mechanical error and complete destruction of the engine has been very close. I have no ideas how it has last until this day. Now all the parts have been changed and tomorrow it's dyno time again.

If it were mine I would probably only drive it to/from the dyno and maybe to the shops. I wouldn't put any stress on it while it clearly has something wrong with the timing as you dont really know what else might be wrong to cause this, and what damage it's doing in the background. My gut feel is still that somehow your "zero" point is 10 or so degrees off from real TDC. You're showing ~18 deg @ idle, but a car can idle quite happily at 8 with the idle valve open a bit extra, and your injection timing been off by 10deg wont mean much. I'd start with doing the ECU calbration process again, following the setup guide exactly. If that doesnt help, probably rip the alternator belt, pulley, and side timing covers off the engine and make sure that all the timing marks are lined up on the actual crank + cams. The maybe a compression test and/or leakdown test? If you somehow had compression issues you could probably run additional timing without knock as the pressure in the cylinders would be a lot less than it "should be" at the level of boost you are seeing in the manifold.
Are there any other issues with the engine? leaks, using water or oil, weird noises?