BlakeR33
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Posts posted by BlakeR33
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Hi guys,
I have a 350z link ecu plugin and unfortunately the VQ turned out to be a boat anchor, so it's been replaced with a L98 6 litre LS engine.
Is it possible to send the ECU into Link and pay to have the header plug changes to suit a LS standalone loom from wiring specialties?
Thank you.
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22 minutes ago, Adamw said:
They are active because the conditions that control them are true (RPM < 3600).
It is pretty common practice to poke the sharp probe through the insulation, or you can backprobe with a pin/needle.
The main relay is controlled both by the ecu and an independent circuit on the adapter board. You can turn off ign 8 just by setting ecu hold power output to none, but voltages on the pins mentioned will be more useful.
Hi Adam,
Seems like I got lucky spent an hour after making that post checking over the O2 sensors. I swapped two sensors from another good engine I have, plug them in and ecu turns off with ignition.
If I unplug the sensors, then turn ecu on and take away ignition they stay on. Is that normal?
Thank you.
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On 3/10/2024 at 6:25 PM, Adamw said:
It looks like the hood just latches in with some barbs at the wire end. I would expect it will pry off without much effort.
Legend thanks Adam.
I pried the cover off, the pins going into the ecu connector have a rubber seal around them which makes it hard to back probe. Is it a bad idea to put a little nick in the wire to test them with a meter?
Here is a screenshot of what the ECU sees;
The only thing I find strange is the O2 sensors show they are active but currently nothing is plugged into those plugs? Could that auxiliary be the one causing the ecu hold power to stay on? Is there a way to manually deactivate ecu hold power in the software to see if the ecu will turn itself off?
Thank you for the support, Link #1.
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On 3/9/2024 at 11:03 AM, Adamw said:
Check voltage on pin 109 when the ign switch is off but ECU is still on. It should be near zero. Provided that's ok, check voltage on pin 111, this should be near battery voltage when ignition is off.
Hi Adam, how do I check voltage on those pins the connector looks like this
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22 hours ago, Confused said:
This is a wiring "fault" - typically one of the relays that feeds auxiliary stuff (for example a boost solenoid) is fed from a permanent source, rather than a switched source.
This is explained really well in the Help both why it happens and how to prevent it, take a look at the section Wiring Information -> Output Wiring -> Auxiliary Output Wiring -> Wiring Auxiliary Outputs -> Avoiding Auxiliary Output Back-feeding
Hi Confused, bar ECU power everything else has been disconnected to try and diagnose the issue.
I am lost, have paid $600 for an autosparky to go thru it and he believes it is the ECU. Never had an issue with a Link before and run them in my 2 other cars but it is looking that way maybe.
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13 minutes ago, Endurance_Racer said:
Can you upload your tune file. I believe I know what is going on. Would like to check it first.
Hi mate, I used the base map and just did the map/tps calibration, turned off fuel cut and played with the master trim. Just in an effort to bleed the cooling system and found the ecu staying on issue.
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Hi guys, I have a 2005 vq35de 350z with a G4X plugin. For some reason the ecu will not turn off with ignition off. I can have the key out of the ignition and the ecu will still connect to the laptop even after an hour or so.. Only way to turn it off is to disconnect the battery.
I can refit the factory ecu with uprev, and its not a problem so I believe it is the ECU fault?
I have tried to reach out to LINK support to talk to someone, but it seems they only do it for Dealers unless you E-Mail.
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Hi guys, I have a Link G4X controlling my 2005 350z. It has been working fine for the last 4 or so months.
This morning I found my battery is drained, jump started car everything is fine. But through investigating found even with ignition off ecu continues to stay powered up and drawing ~2amps.
Even after an hour it keeps drawing power, only way to stop it is to of course disconnect the battery.
I have replaced the ECCS relay and same result.
Would this be an ECU fault or wiring?
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21 hours ago, Adamw said:
A ECR33 doesnt even have an ecu controlled fan as far as I remember? Secondly, the G4+ GTS/GTR plug-in doesnt have an aux 9 output either. Or are you saying you have re-wired the fan yourself?
Assuming it is stock wiring, I think you will find the fan is controlled either by a triple-pressure switch or the AC unit.
Hi Adam,
I am referring to the electric condenser fan. When I had the Apexi it use to engage this fan as soon as the ac clutch was enabled. The link doesn't do this for some reason?
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Hi guys I have a Link G4+ in an ECR33. Trying to get the Condenser fan to work, I have the AC setup to trigger aux 9 which i've set to Engine Fan 1 when the ac clutch is engaged. It won't do anything, there is engine fan 2 and 3 options which I have tried and they also don't work.
If I manually close the relay, the fan works so I know theres no issues there. Car doesn't get warm, just find the aircon stops working in traffic.
Thank you :)
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3 hours ago, 0x33 said:
Must be something related to your setup. Check you haven't over torqued your knock sensors whilst installing. Or maybe engine isn't stock, you are brave to rev to 8k on standard internals lol.
This is a log of my knock trace using settings above, it is repeatable & similar on most stock 2J's I come across.
T88 @ 1.6 Bar
I'm not a tuner but I was just wondering, I thought the whole point of tuning was to make sure you don't get knock? Is 265 counts of knock a high level? I'm only asking because on my Apexi PowerFC I use to get about 10 counts of knock if I pushed it really hard, but now with my Link I don't get any knock at all?
Cheers.
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Any ideas this really has me stumped.
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1997 R33 Skyline GTS25T.
Up till a couple months ago ecu was displaying wheel speed well. For some reason now it is no longer showing it. Only thing I have touched wiring wise is cutting a wire for the hicas ecu which puts the hicas light on the dash after installing a delete kit.
I am going to try and reconnect this wire tomorrow and see if it fixes the issue.
The Yellow/Green wire on the ecu is for Vehicle speed and probing it with a multimeter in ac or dc mode, it does not give a reading.
Any ideas?
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16 hours ago, Vaughan said:
It does store over power cycles but I would suspect that your engine light isn't actually controlled by CE function, the G4+ GTR/GTS sample maps had the CE Light turn on when Coolant temp or MAP went too high so have a quick look in your map to see what is actually controlling it.
It turns out it was overboost causing the engine light to come on, it was under the limit for boostcut but was over the boost target.
Strange how the ecu doesn't store that data though so you can find out what the light was for.
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Hi guys, does a Link G4+ not store fault codes from the engine light coming on?
It was coming on over 5500rpm, but not hitting a boost cut or anything. Obviously as soon as I saw it, I got out of it.
Left car running when I got home and plugged my laptop into it, but I couldn't find anything stored in the ecu?
Any ideas?
Cheers.
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25 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Ethanol is not in the generic dash stream. Did you set up the "extended channels" as per the gaugeart instructions?
Hey Adam, want to say thanks for all the help you give on this forum a lot of your posts have helped me.
I have tried setting up the extended channels, and got it to work with boost target, fuel temp but it won't work with the ethanol content.
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Hi guys, I have a non branded gaugeart (I understand the haltech ones have issues with link ecu).
Most of the options work except for flex fuel content. I know it definitely works because I have a flex fuel sensor and in pclink it shows the content.
Any ideas how I can get it to display on the gaugeart? At the moment it shows 0% but 21% on pc link.
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can link g4+ delete iacv without going dbw?
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The CAN LAMBDA needs to be installed with a relay, whats the best way of doing this? Ideally I'd want to install it in the stock fuse box of my R33?
Anyone have photos of how they installed it in their skyline?
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On 7/5/2019 at 6:43 AM, Simon said:
I would advise avoiding any power supply that has inductive loads on it like coils and injectors as this can cause issues for the can lambda they need a noise free supply.
Can you specify anywhere in a skylines engine bay to tap into?
On 7/6/2019 at 8:59 PM, Richard Hill said:A CAN Lambda will draw up to 1.5 Amps during warm up phase and about 1 Amp to maintain temperature (in ambient surroundings). They must have a good, noise free power supply or if that's not possible, add an electrolytic capacitor near the CAN Lambda (I use 47µF). As Simon said, they really don't work if they are wired near an inductive load.
Can you specify anywhere in a skylines engine bay to tap into?
Or am I best off to just run a wire all the way from the battery in the back, to the front to supply the CAN Lambda power? I tried researching this but can't seem to find anything which is strange I would've thought a lot of people would have done this before.
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Having a few issues with connecting to my Link G4+. I attach the ecu harness header and will come up under device manager in my computer, but will not prime fuel pump or anything else. I haven't wired in anything else except for plugging the ecu in.
I have made sure the microswitches on the board are correct as per start guide. Any ideas? If I plug the Powerfc back in, everything works.
Also, using PCLink with updated drivers it will not connect to ECU. Must be something I'm doing wrong.
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Also, where would be best location to install air temp sensor? I have ffp plenum and I'm guessing would need to be positioned before the throttlebody?
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My battery for my R33 Skyline is rear mounted. Would I need to run a power wire all the way from the rear of the car to a relay in the engine bay to power the Lambda CAN as per the instructions in the manual? I'm guessing it can't be piggy backed off something else as could interrupt the signal.
Is there a special relay to get, or does a place like Jay Car have everything I should need?
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1 hour ago, Adamw said:
The only combined oil press/temp sensors I know of are the relatively new Bosch ones: https://www.bosch-motorsport-shop.com.au/liquid-pressure-temp-combined-sensor-10-bar-140-de
For the MAC valve, there are a few similar part numbers that will work, a common one is 35A-ACA-DDBA-0BA. Make sure you get it from a MAC dealer as there are many very poor quality fakes about.
Hi Adam, thank you for replying.
Do you know if the oil sensor you listed is compatible with my GTRLink and both functions of sensor will work?
I cannot find a dealer of the MAC valve, I can find them on eBay as "Genuine" but seller not sure if sensor is when asked.
https://www.pneumaticsolutions.com.au/review/product/list/id/4399/
Would selecting the 35A-ACA-DDBA-1BA option be correct?
Sorry for being difficult about this, I just want to make sure I am buying the right parts.
350z Plugin extension loom
in G4x
Posted
Hello, I would like to use both CAN Lambda and have an extension loom to control two fan relays.
Unfortunately the factory fans are controlled over CAN and with my setup I'd need a analogue way of triggering the relays.
Is that possible with this ECU, I believe I already have the Can JST cable plugged into the ecu?
Thank you.