armog
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Posts posted by armog
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Using the test function in the link software the vct is activated properly it seems. Other than that I see no actual issues other than just a vct issue so we went ahead and replaced the vct cam gear and the issue is still persistent.
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The injectors have been tested, cleaned and the entire fuel system including tank was pulled and cleaned out and blown out. I might have linked the wrong log file, I will double check that to be sure. I have raised the vct engagement to 2k RPM and its helped the transition but still the issue remains. With vct deactivated the car runs well and reacts properly.
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I have verified cam timing is correct, played around with the activation and deactivation parameters and still have an issue. If I pull fuel away to get it to a point where it should not be breaking up and running poorly it will still act up. The VCT output is on AUX 5 as it was in the base map provided to the customer and is it possible the output is not able to supply to the solenoid?
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SR20DET s13 with g4x ecu, having an issue with over fueling at a set rpm point right around 2k rpm and pulling fuel does not help. Causes the rpm to drop and constantly fluctuate from breaking up from the fueling.
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Question was if not the trigger settings are correct for the application.
Had an issue with the dizzy arcing out with an ignition test, replaced dizzy and we have no spark so I'm going to be inspecting the wiring and go from there. Will update firmware and update.
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Trying to figure out what settings to use on a na+t ka24de using g4x monsoon.
have it set as 360 optical with distributer
trigger 1
optical/hall
on
rising
trigger 2
optical/hall
on
all
trying to attach the map but im limited by file size and dont know how to clear out previous attachments.
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Issue resolved.
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I've noticed it getting worse over time logging it and suspected a fuel supply issue, removed tophat and inspected tank to find rust and corrosion. Correcting issue and flow testing injectors currently. Will report back if issue is still present afterwards.
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Customer does headgasket, tune has not changed but in order to run properly master fuel had to be doubled. 4ms master fuel initially and now it is at 8ms, other than a new throttle cable and a tps calibration nothing has changed except fuel pump change. Timing has been resynced and tps calibrated, even tried a map sensor calibration.
Fuel pressure is stable at 40psi at idle and regulator works properly and increases with boost pressure.
Runs well at 8ms but is super lean at 4ms
Injectors are fic 1000cc injectors
Running pump gas
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After mucking about ive got everything running properly except for one issue.
link g4x fury
Fic 1000 injectors with 43 psi fuel pressure and dead time tables and adder table off of fic website for link ecu.
Base timing set and synced using timing light and even used a dial gauge to confirm actual top dead center and its only off by a degree from the markings on the damper and the lower timing cover marks, set up as 10 degrees ref and offset of 205.
engine runs smooth and has no issues at 11.5 afr at idle but as soon as you lean out to get a stoich idle it starts to act like its lean right at 12 and gets worse the more you go. Double checked trigger polarity and thats correct, as well as confirming that no trims or anything are active in the runtime values. even checked dwell timing for coilpacks and no change when using other settings. the only thing that smoothed it out was changing the offset from 205 down to 195 which sets the timing marks at about 5 degrees and then the engine runs as expected but the timing being unsynced is obviously an issue.
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Set up triggers and offset and put a fresh set of plugs and a charged battery in and she fired right up. Thank you for the help Adam, you're a genius.
Only issue I have now is I can't seem to find proper injector dead time tables since the g4x has 7 volts to 22 volts as a range. Fic doesn't seem to have the deadtime table and the pulse width adder table easily findable. I am using fic 1000cc injectors and don't know what to put into the table cells between the standard 8,10,12,14 and 16 volt range.
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update, changed reluctor wheel on crank as the previous one had spun and was no longer in the correct position. replaced with a 2jz vvti 36-2 reluctor and have issues trying to find the right trigger settings. I had it set up as 1jz vvti and it does not fire off at all, tried multitooth/missing and can get it to fire but not continue running. have the settings as 36 tooth missing 2 teeth and number of gaps at 1 and sync tooth as 1.
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Ok I see. It is a possibility, the only correction for that I could think of is either a thicker head gasket or a shorter belt possibly. But if it's possible to correct this issue with an adjustable cam gear so be it. I just want to be able figure out what direction I should go towards for a solution.
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No it does not.
Using the mk4 supra crank sprocket and and the 1jz 12 tooth pick up. So I have it set up as multitooth 12 tooth with a 1x cam pulse. Using a link flying lead harness.
Trigger one is 12 tooth sync tooth 1 and trigger 2 is set up as cam pulse 1x.
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On 5/15/2021 at 9:48 PM, Adamw said:
Definitely appears to be a trigger issue. Can you attach a copy of your tune, and a couple more triggerscopes.
here you go
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Around idle to 1500 rpm the rpm signal drops to zero for a split second and engine bucks. Trigger 1 error counter increases at that moment and car drops in rpm as it's not getting rpm signal. Checked trigger calibration and if I lock it at 15 degrees with a 0 offset it doesn't stay stable. At 11.5 afr the engine runs nicely with no rpm drop but at 14.7 afr it struggles to run like its running very lean. Going to calibrate the wideband gauge to see if its reading accurately but wanted to get input from here on what else it could be.
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2 hours ago, Adamw said:
Log Please
i have been helping him out. ive attached the map and logs Insert existing attachment
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On first turn of the key a long crank is required to start but if ignition is cycled once more its an immediate start.
Upon startup the iacv seems to take a second or two to engage and start correcting idle. Is there anyway to speed it up?
No issues during driving or any other times of operation.
Pnp g4+ for r33 with stock wiring.
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3 hours ago, Adamw said:
Yes.
Yes on the shaft or in the hole to take up the play.
So I measured the tolerances of the oem TB and compared it to the aftermarket one and decided to make a shim to take up the play and used a 0.35mm shim(made from a feeler gauge). The issue is no longer present and the throttle is a lot more responsive. Thank you for the help and the support, very appreciative of the direction to fixing this issue.
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39 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Pull the TPS off the throttle body and check how it couples to the throttle shaft. I have seen some that have lots of backlash and a non-spring loaded TPS. A dollop of silicone or similar may be all it needs.
I assume your referring to a sloppy fit between the shaft that the TPS is actuated by and the TPS yes? The TPS is a new oem RB25 series 1. I see what you mean, the tps is not spring loaded.
By a dollop you mean to put some silicone gasket maker on the shaft to make up the slack correct? Upon removal the supplied adapter indeed has a horrendous amount of slop. Over 10 thousandths indicated by the dial gauge.
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On 4/30/2020 at 8:54 PM, Vaughan said:
Interesting that you are using the factory cable, as my factory Stagea cable isn't long enough to reach when using a greddy style manifold.
I suspect the lean patch is due to the overrun fuel cut. I've just noticed that the overrun fuel cut doesn't seem to show up under the percentage FCut runtime and if your throttle is dropping to 0% that cut will be being applied.
It really does look like the throttle plate is being physically shut. Does it happen only under hard load?
So i replaced the TB andd TPS and issue still persists, further testing shows that the throttle body itself may be the issue. the throttle body never seems to return tps voltage and position back to the same position, and about 5 percent movement is required to register on the tps. TB is appearance wise a generic 90mm TB and another friend of mine with the same type of TB also on link has the same issue with his 1jz car. now the question is wether to go oem with a q45 TB or something else.
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12 minutes ago, Vaughan said:
Interesting that you are using the factory cable, as my factory Stagea cable isn't long enough to reach when using a greddy style manifold.
I suspect the lean patch is due to the overrun fuel cut. I've just noticed that the overrun fuel cut doesn't seem to show up under the percentage FCut runtime and if your throttle is dropping to 0% that cut will be being applied.
It really does look like the throttle plate is being physically shut. Does it happen only under hard load?
It does not happen under hard load, only under very light load when taking off from a stop or a light. I was able to use the factory cable by routing it differently. I can try an s14 cable as its longer and use the other location on the throttle body and see what happens as well as a new tps.
I also noticed the throttle cable is different between my friends r34gtt (longer).
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1 hour ago, Vaughan said:
That grey connector is for idle and full throttle switch (neither is used by the Link), the tps in my stagea has two plugs, one for grey and one for brown. map pressure decreasing means more vacuum, if the engine was dying I would expect pressure to increase as it used less of the air coming in. On my S2 motor there were 3 different air valves, one for idle, one for when ac is turned on (the ac also turns on a fan) and then there was a 3rd one bolted the water pipes on the bottom of the manifold but I haven't figured out what that one did yet.
I can't see any cuts being applied in that second log
Are you sure there isn't an issue with your throttle cable? Is the engine leaning under load affecting the the throttle position?
Unless you're using TPS as your fuel or ign load the tps value shouldn't make a difference to your engine power
When I look at the wideband it does go lean yes, the throttle cable is the factory cable, I had to remove the pedal stop or the throttle body wouldn't open all the way, pretty sure I'm using MAP as load. Whats weird is it doesn't do it 70% of the time.
G4X 6.22.13 bugs?
in G4x
Posted
Having a problem with the new update we're when the Q,A, and page up and down keys are inverting the 3d graph and showing the underside of the table.