180sxdeano
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Posts posted by 180sxdeano
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21 hours ago, Adamw said:
If you pull the lid off the ecu case, is there a blue or green LED glowing when the ignition is on?
Yes solid, green led light
4 minutes ago, 180sxdeano said:Yes solid, green led light
It may of been low battery? As I let it charge up overnight, and now it is connected to the link on the PC. Also do I contact your guys or where I got it from? I brought it of CJ motor a while back..
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17 minutes ago, Adamw said:
So your saying it does connect now?
Sorry off line when I select Manual
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On 1/6/2021 at 8:39 PM, Adamw said:
Yes ignition needs to be on. Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay to disable.
tested it out, pulled pump fuse, and it just says searching in orange, also it says searching even with the usb not in, as soon as I open link it says searching, only goes offonline when I select manual?
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1 hour ago, Adamw said:
Drivers look fine. Can you show us the connection settings in PC link. Is the ecu powered up?
Settings in link here,. Dose the ignition need to be on (reds)or just the accessories?
My fuel lines are not finished and need to drain fuel, yet pump did energise when on for a second.
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Sorry mate, probably does your head in, are these the correct com port settings, in Auto it just keeps scanning,. When I plugged the USB in for the first time, it made the ding ding bleep (usb plugin sound) yet didn't come up with install drivers etc... @Adamw
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thanks @Adamw ill see if I can find that solenoid wire, I may of tucked it away years ago, thanks for clearing that up!
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Well, Wow, been a year and I still haven't got this done yet, hahah
almost got this thing done, just had no time, getting it running soon hopefully.
I am in need for a switched (-) from the ecu to trigger my thermo fan relay. ive only got expansion loom 1, running eflex, oil temp, oil pressure, IAT.
I have also going to run the Boost controller off the ECU,
I have been looking into the manual, it says in 8.1 that Aux 8 pin 114 is not connected, could this be used for boost or the relay control,
also Aux 7 (waste gate solenoid) was this the factory control? as could it be used as the boost solenoid control. then I just get a +12V from the car straight to it, terminating the (-) to this wire/pin111 ?
thanks
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On 1/1/2021 at 7:15 PM, RPS13180SX said:
Hi Deano,
I did exactly what Adam mentioned above, the factory sensor controls the light on the dash, and the aftermarket sensor which is controlled through the link is set at a minimum psi which when triggered depending on how long the pressure is wont let the engine rev high to damage it( limp mode)If you remove it then your tuner will set the up the new sensor to replace it, not to sure if the tuner can program it to do both, but since my engine was sitting for a while and it had a new turbo, we disabled the cas and turned it over to build oil pressure/until the dash light went out
cheers
yeah cool, I found a T piece joiner 1/8npt. I have the taarks oil block and it has a spare thread on the side, yet faces the starter motor so Ill use this T to offset it next to the oil press switch for the light
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what did you end up doing?
I'm trying to get mine ready, I got a pressure sensor was just going to remove the factory one, (its just a switch) and install the 150 psi sensor in that hole, with the oil temp down in the spare port of the Greddy sump.
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On 11/1/2020 at 7:12 PM, Adamw said:
Pinout for the 5 pin CAN socket is below. You only need the CAN H/L.
yeah got this, also is there any instructions or special crimp tool needed? i can seem to get it, pins too small and keep snapping in mine, or is there one i can buy?
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Hey guys,
So have had this link sitting around for a while and trying to get it in now.
Had a question with the CAN wiring. How do you guys make it work?
Also see photo's would it work if I wired it into my old haltec CAN hub, I like the idea of it being able to be disconnected easy with out having to pull the cover/ECU out and all.
Rainy day (weeks) so figured I'd try get this finalized and tuned in the next few week finally!!.
Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
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On 9/13/2020 at 6:58 PM, Adamw said:
Someone like Element 14 or RS components should have them within a couple of days, otherwise any Link dealer can get you a CANPCB next day.
yeah thanks, I found CJ motors on eBay had them..
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anyone know where to buy the 5 pin CAN plug? located in Australia.
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On 12/30/2019 at 9:20 AM, cj said:
Map Sensor - this is internal to the ECU. The config will show it connected to AN V3, but physically you need to run a tee-d off boost/vacuum line to the ECU. If you want to use an external MAP sensor, change the anv3 config to none, and wire in the signal line from the external MAP sensor to any free AN channel/reuse the AFM channel like you suggested. (and obviously set this channel to MAP sensor + set the calibration)
-yes ill go with this option, save some wiring in the bay,
On 12/30/2019 at 9:20 AM, cj said:canbus can certainly be used to receive the O2 sensor signals, and this is actually preferred over an Analog input as it prevents ground offset plus it gives you access to temp + error codes if the lambda controller sends them. The fact you previously had both modules on the same canbus means they should connect at the same bus speed. You will need to either configure your lambda controller to output message in "Link CAN-Lambda" format, or find/have a spec sheet of the messages it sends so you can configure the CAN receive channel in the Link to read the data.
so would it be possible to get the link CAN harness, and splice it to the haltech harness to plug into the haltech can bus hub? as this would be better for the wideband as you stated? and configure the formats to work.
On 12/30/2019 at 9:20 AM, cj said:On 12/30/2019 at 9:09 PM, Richard Hill said:I think I made a link stream for the haltech wideband controller. I will have a look.
Regards,
Richard.
cheers mate, let me know
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Hey guys, new to the link ECU, (finally sold my haltech gear and changed to link after multiple rocker arms fails)
in the process of installing, I was told i could use all my haltech MAP, IAT, WIDEBAND, RACEPACK DASH etc.. with this ECU (s15 link plug in).
i also have the eflex sensor, oil temp sensor, and was hoping to install oil pressue as well
It seems the MAP sensor needs to be into An volt 3, can this be wired into the header pin old AFM wiring? or it seems to be needed to get the expansion harness, or is all is needed is to run a boost line off the manifold to the fitting inside? it was written as "wired" in point 4.1.1 (1) of manual, obviously this would be the easiest way if i just need to plug a vac line in.
im guessing i would need the expansion cable loom as well,
I assigned the following for it.
EX.3- DI6- eflex (haltech say it needs a DPI? should this work ok)
EX4- DI7- spare
EX5-An V5- WB ch1 An input to ECU or is it easier to try convert the CAN haltech to the CAN link?
EX6-An V6- oil pressure? cant find wiring diagram for these
EX7-An temp3- IAT
EX8- An temp4- Oil temp
not sure if i could adapt the link CAN to plug into my CAN BUS from haltech and run the Wideband/Racepac dash all togeather as haltech do? any one tried or is it worth just using the EX5 for the CH input for the wideband. asnd sell my dash and get a link ECU one (dash isn't too important at this stage.).
or have any tips
thanks
Dean
LINK G4+ and IQ3 dash communication help
in G4+
Posted
Hi guys,
I Have the Haltech street dash and have connected it up to the CAN hub, coming out of the G4+,
is it better too wire it straight to the ecu wiring? I cant seem to get it working, as I don't think I need the Vnet module adaptor being the haltech model?