Jump to content

Nano

Members
  • Posts

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Nano

  1. 6 hours ago, Adamw said:

    It has a magnet inside the sensor, your target just needs to be ferromagnetic metal - soft low carbon steel is best if you are making a trigger wheel, but most steel items such as bolts will work fine too.  

    thank you adam. what is the ideal teeth  number  for this application?

  2. Hello, i got this sensor to install on my car for wheel speed but a bit confused of how it works. does the sensor detects a magnetised target, or ferrous like bolt? thanks

    Screenshot_20230413_000842_AliExpress.jpg

  3. Hello, i have few questions about wiring,setting realdash app via Can adapter.

    I have already Link Can lambda installed.

    1st: there is a 120ohm resistor pinned to the adapter. Should i leave it on?

    2nd: wiring: Can H and Can L of the adapter tapped in Can lambda H and L wire respectively?

    3nd: wiring: the USB cable goes from adapter to tablet with otg adapter?

    4nd: wiring: at the same time, pc link software  is wired to the tuning ecu port for configuring "can setup"

    5nd: the adapter is flashing once,  that equals to 2000000. Is this ok?

    I read online forums before asking those questions but  i find it a bit confusing.

    Thank you for your help.

     

     

  4. Ok so i ll try to power the ecu directly.  Thanks.

    I forgot to say that the starter is not turning when cranking

    Ok adam i ve tested the unit and the blue light came on steady or flashing caus my hand was shaking a bit.

    What could be my issue though?

  5. Hello,

    As above, the monsoon led  is not on with ignition on after  the car sat two months.

     

    I have continuity between 12v at the battery and at ecu end. 

    I have continuity for computer ground

    I have 0.03 volts with ignition on and i have the diagnostic light on on the dashboard.

    Do you think the ecu is fried up?

    It is almost a new ecu.

    Thanks

  6. On 7/28/2017 at 10:28 AM, Adamw said:

     

    IAT table should always be off unless there is some special need for extra compensation on top of the automatically calculated air density.

    The ECU uses "charge temp" to calculate the air density.  The charge temp approximation table uses a blend of IAT and ECT to approximate the temperature of the air entering the combustion chamber.  This approximated temperature is then used to calculate air density based on the idea gas law.  

    The reason you use the charge temp approximation instead of just IAT is that IAT isnt always a good indication of the temperature of the air entering the combustion chamber  - after the air passes the IAT sensor it is usually heated more by the manifold and port walls etc, the amount of this heating effect generally varies with load and engine speed.   At low speed the charge temp is closer to ECT, at high speed the charge temp is closer to IAT.

    hi adam, 

    "IAT table should always be off unless there is some special need for extra compensation on top of the automatically calculated air density."

    in my case, i believe i need extra compensation to fight heat soak from 60 70  degres iat and i put 6 in the area of 60deg  to get the same  afr as normal the iat range  is that the way to go?

    all the other cells are zeroed

    i havent played with the charge temp table 

    thanks

  7. thanks adam, i just want my tacho to work.

    by reading a lot of infos for my car, people seems to get it work with no mod.so i want to make sure i m not missing anything

    but anyway, i ordered the booster and will try it.

    the tacho was wired to an external igniter, cut off this wire and put it aux3

  8. 2 hours ago, Paschalis said:

    Done this cop conversion 5 days ago:) So my findings were that corolla g6 rpm counter that was working fine but had been modified long time ago when 4efte engine fitted, stopped working with the tacho output (nobody remember how it had been modified back then) but as soon as I installed another original counter, it was working fine.

    If you check Adam's post above, you ll see that he says that if original counter was connected to coils, it will work, otherwise it won't work and it will need a tacho booster.

    Screenshot_20201027-184226_Samsung Internet.jpg

    so i dont need booster? and it should work like mine is wired? sorry got a bit confused. ve justbm ordered the tacho booster adam suggested lol.

    thanks for your help. is this easy to wire it ?

  9. 10 minutes ago, Paschalis said:

    Done this cop conversion 5 days ago:) So my findings were that corolla g6 rpm counter that was working fine but had been modified long time ago when 4efte engine fitted, stopped working with the tacho output (nobody remember how it had been modified back then) but as soon as I installed another original counter, it was working fine.

    If you check Adam's post above, you ll see that he says that if original counter was connected to coils, it will work, otherwise it won't work and it will need a tacho booster.

    Screenshot_20201027-184226_Samsung Internet.jpg

    so i dont need booster? and it should work like mine is wired? sorry got a bit confused. ve justbm ordered the tacho booster adam suggested lol.

  10. 21 minutes ago, Paschalis said:

    If we are talking about the rpm counter, yes directly to the ecu BUT I think that it needs an adapter to work from new ecus, since my distributor driven rpm counter was working fine but when connected the ecu signal it had no readings like yours and I needed ti change to my original corolla g6 cluster to work ok without doing a ything more. So conclusion is that old style needs some kind of tacho booster, new style don't. 

    You are correctly connected though.

    yes i m talking about rev counter...i talked with a guy and told me it should work straight forward....

    i ve forgotten to say, its coil on plugs, so oem igniter and coil are removed...

  11. hello, i have a g4x monsoon wired to a   starlet 4efte.

    when i got the car it had no revcounter so i swapped it with glanza cluster with no problem as the wire was already there.

    now with the monsoon hooked up, rpm needle stays to 0.

    (i m using  the ig- thin black  wire that goes to coil/igniter) 

    auxiliary 3  status tacho is Active though

    should i use the wire direct from cluster to ecu? 

     

     

     

  12. Hello, i m planning to buy a g4x storm ecu but before that, i ll be working on wiring.

    What is the difference between connector A and B? Arent they the same?

    Could i buy 2 connectors whatever they are? 

    I dont want to order wrong parts..

    Thanks.

×
×
  • Create New...