Cnote0ne
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Posts posted by Cnote0ne
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I have another issue with a code 73 that keeps popping up. I was told by Link Support to change the throttle relay but that didn't fix it. It happens randomly. I can't seem to load the log, only 43kB allowed.
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10 hours ago, Adamw said:
Its a bit hard to tell with no lambda, but if I were to hazard a guess I would say "heat soak" of the IAT sensor and metal around it causing it to run lean after a hot restart until the temperatures start to equalize.
You could try adding some extra fuel in the IAT trim table for the first minute or so of running when IAT is high.
It seem the IAT correction was set to off. I turned it on and so far it seem to work. I'll adjust the table if it need it. Thanks.
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My 350z has a hot start up issue. After driving for a few miles and I let it sit for 30 minutes it will not stay idle. Any help would be appreciated. Please see the attached log. Thanks.
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Thanks
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16 hours ago, Adamw said:
Do you have a G4+ or G4X? This mod was only needed for G4+ which we haven’t made for over a year
I have a G4+ PnP
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On 11/5/2021 at 8:53 PM, Adamw said:
I will PM you some instructions, you will have to wire a relay into the ABS ecu power wire.
Hi Adamw,
Can I get a copy of that document? I have the same issue. Thanks.
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Problem solved. The wideband sensor was bad. Thanks guys.
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I moved the wideband sensor to the passenger side pipe and I still get the same bouncing effect.
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15 hours ago, Adamw said:
The leans spikes are puffs of oxygen going through the exhaust. It appears to most likely be a misfire as it looks worse as load increase, but could also potentially be an air leak, exhaust leak or similar.
I found a small crack in the wideband bung and thought that was the source of the leak. After welding it, I still get the erratic AFR. No cracks in turbo manifolds. I don't see any other area in the exhaust for a leak.
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1 hour ago, Adamw said:1 hour ago, Adamw said:
Not related but just FYI before you tune too much: it looks like your VVT offsets might be wrong as your inlet cams appear to top out at about 30deg when they are trying to reach 40deg.
How do I correct that? I upgraded the cams and I want to get the most out of them. Thanks.
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Here is a log I ran today. The AFR is all over the place. I've never had it bounce around like that. I use the same Bosch wideband I got with the G4+.
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It's strange that those figures before were bad, but the car ran fine with a correct AFR. I tuned the fuel table and was ready to go on the dyno for more tuning. It's running now but the AFR is bouncing all over the place. I'm getting huge spikes during normal driving. I still can't seem to attach a log. Is there a calibration step for the wideband? My old UTEC setup had a calibration step for new wideband sensors.
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1 hour ago, dx4picco said:
Hotwire the lambda to see what happens at startup
How do I do that?
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I managed to get it to idle by adding a crazy amount of fuel than previously tuned. My fuel table went from the 27, 28 in the idle cells to 65. The wideband is bouncing between 14.0 and 15ish. Could this be due to a faulty wideband? I'm having some issues with attaching files.
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4 hours ago, Adamw said:
Can you give us more of the story, has this previously been tuned and running ok and just stopped running? Or is it a new install etc?
It's not a new install. The car was running fine until the upstream O2 sensor on the passenger side went bad. I changed it with an old one I had laying around and car was back to normal for a few days and the sensor went bad again. I decided to replace both upstream sensors and the car would still idle rough, but no codes. I replaced injectors with new 550cc ones since I had to upgrade to a bigger size anyway, checked spark plugs, coils, connectors. Now the car won't stay idle. It idles fine for a few seconds and die. I can rev it up a few times and it dies even when giving it gas. O2 sensor starts at .85 volt and drop to 0.0 just before it dies. Fuel pressure show 52 psi at idle. Please see the attached log. Thanks.
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On 7/10/2021 at 5:26 PM, Adamw said:
I would be checking the basics such as fuel pressure and all injectors are working. It appears you can keep it running by pumping the throttle which would suggest there is a lack of fuel.
I added a fuel pressure gauge and it shows 43 psi. New o2 sensor , injectors, wideband sensor and car still won't stay running long enough to read AFR.
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2 hours ago, Adamw said:
I would be checking the basics such as fuel pressure and all injectors are working. It appears you can keep it running by pumping the throttle which would suggest there is a lack of fuel.
Thanks. Unfortunately, I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but the injectors are new. Maybe the pump? It's over 14yrs old. I do hear it prime when I turn the key.
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I purchased a new Bosch wideband sensor but now the car won't stay running. It idles for a few seconds and die. Please see the log. Thx.
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15 minutes ago, Vaughan said:
That log is just failed starts, shows no information relevant to the engine running generally rich
how about this one?
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12 minutes ago, Vaughan said:
do you have any old logs from before it started running rough, one other thing I noticed in your log is that it is generally running quite a lot richer than the target
Here is an old log.
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6 minutes ago, Vaughan said:
From looking at the tune the NB sensors don't affect the fueling of the vehicle but the wideband does. You have one wideband hooked up but your CLL is setup for dual widebands and so any CLL correction made will only affect one bank of the engine, that being said it isn't making any big changes in your supplied log.
Have you considered that something else has gone wrong with the engine which is causing the NB reading to look wrong and making it run rough, say if it missing on one cylinder that will both make it run rough and will change the O2 reading on the sensor on that bank of the engine.
I guess it's possible, I may have a bad coil pack. In the process of troubleshooting the bad O2 sensor, I went through the coils, spark plugs, wires and connectors. Once I changed the O2 sensor with an old one everything was fine until that sensor went bad. I will check the coils and spark plugs again.
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2 minutes ago, Vaughan said:
do you have a wideband setup?
Yes, they are wideband.
When I add fuel at idle the voltage on the side showing 0 goes to .85 but my AFR is in the 10s.
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The voltage will ramp, match the other for a few seconds and settle back to 0. It does seem to run ok for a couple of minutes.
7 minutes ago, Vaughan said:does it only run bad once it's up to temperature?
Your tune shows that it does use the NB sensors but only once it's up to 70deg c coolant temp and only between 1200 and 3500rpm
Yep, it does idle smoother at first start.
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It just started after the O2 sensor went bad. The car was running great until the O2 sensor went.
Intermittent ECU Fault Code #73, Aux 9/10 supply voltage
in G4+
Posted
Hi BealJK,
I'm having the same issue after doing the 75mm throttle body mod on my 350z (VQDE). I get the fault code 73 as soon as I turn the key to on position. I see a low voltage error in the ECU Status. Which relay did you swapped? My battery sit at 12 v ign/off and 14 v ign/on except when fault code hit it...drops to ~.4 v.