Cnote0ne

Hi BealJK, I'm having the same issue after doing the 75mm throttle body mod on my 350z (VQDE). I get the fault code 73 as soon as I turn the key to on position. I see a low voltage error in the ECU Status. Which relay did you swapped? My battery sit at 12 v ign/off and 14 v ign/on except when fault code hit it...drops to ~.4 v.

I have another issue with a code 73 that keeps popping up. I was told by Link Support to change the throttle relay but that didn't fix it. It happens randomly. I can't seem to load the log, only 43kB allowed.

It seem the IAT correction was set to off. I turned it on and so far it seem to work. I'll adjust the table if it need it. Thanks.

My 350z has a hot start up issue. After driving for a few miles and I let it sit for 30 minutes it will not stay idle. Any help would be appreciated. Please see the attached log. Thanks. Log 2022-04-21 8;50;14 pm.zip

Thanks

I have a G4+ PnP

Hi Adamw, Can I get a copy of that document? I have the same issue. Thanks.

Problem solved. The wideband sensor was bad. Thanks guys.

I moved the wideband sensor to the passenger side pipe and I still get the same bouncing effect.

I found a small crack in the wideband bung and thought that was the source of the leak. After welding it, I still get the erratic AFR. No cracks in turbo manifolds. I don't see any other area in the exhaust for a leak.

How do I correct that? I upgraded the cams and I want to get the most out of them. Thanks.

Here is a log I ran today. The AFR is all over the place. I've never had it bounce around like that. I use the same Bosch wideband I got with the G4+. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjI8sO2lko8akQ-GYdIf8gdSLgEG?e=wQZ816

It's strange that those figures before were bad, but the car ran fine with a correct AFR. I tuned the fuel table and was ready to go on the dyno for more tuning. It's running now but the AFR is bouncing all over the place. I'm getting huge spikes during normal driving. I still can't seem to attach a log. Is there a calibration step for the wideband? My old UTEC setup had a calibration step for new wideband sensors.

How do I do that?

I managed to get it to idle by adding a crazy amount of fuel than previously tuned. My fuel table went from the 27, 28 in the idle cells to 65. The wideband is bouncing between 14.0 and 15ish. Could this be due to a faulty wideband? I'm having some issues with attaching files.

It's not a new install. The car was running fine until the upstream O2 sensor on the passenger side went bad. I changed it with an old one I had laying around and car was back to normal for a few days and the sensor went bad again. I decided to replace both upstream sensors and the car would still idle rough, but no codes. I replaced injectors with new 550cc ones since I had to upgrade to a bigger size anyway, checked spark plugs, coils, connectors. Now the car won't stay idle. It idles fine for a few seconds and die. I can rev it up a few times and it dies even when giving it gas. O2 sensor starts at .85 volt and drop to 0.0 just before it dies. Fuel pressure show 52 psi at idle. Please see the attached log. Thanks. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjI8sO2lko8akQqOhVmSC6KNRHlC?e=o2lt1o

I added a fuel pressure gauge and it shows 43 psi. New o2 sensor , injectors, wideband sensor and car still won't stay running long enough to read AFR.

Thanks. Unfortunately, I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but the injectors are new. Maybe the pump? It's over 14yrs old. I do hear it prime when I turn the key.

I purchased a new Bosch wideband sensor but now the car won't stay running. It idles for a few seconds and die. Please see the log. Thx. \https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjI8sO2lko8akQkVE9KIHH3aO19e?e=Hu8XTS

Log 2020-06-19 6;24;05 pm.llg how about this one?

Here is an old log. Fuelchange log.llg

I guess it's possible, I may have a bad coil pack. In the process of troubleshooting the bad O2 sensor, I went through the coils, spark plugs, wires and connectors. Once I changed the O2 sensor with an old one everything was fine until that sensor went bad. I will check the coils and spark plugs again.

Yes, they are wideband. When I add fuel at idle the voltage on the side showing 0 goes to .85 but my AFR is in the 10s.

The voltage will ramp, match the other for a few seconds and settle back to 0. It does seem to run ok for a couple of minutes. Yep, it does idle smoother at first start.

It just started after the O2 sensor went bad. The car was running great until the O2 sensor went.