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Pete_89t2 last won the day on January 26

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About Pete_89t2

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  1. @Adamw - Curious as to why MGP on both tables is the preferred load axes in this case, as opposed to having MAP on the AFR/Lambda Target table and MGP on the Fuel Table? While my car is very different being a rotary (13B-REW), it shares similar characteristics to this one, namely being turbocharged, with a single throttle plate (GM DBW, 90mm) and a plenum (using the 13B-RE Cosmo upper & lower intake mani). I could be completely wrong, but I thought it was best to use MAP on the AFR/Lambda target table, in order to correct for altitude, and then use MGP on the Fuel table?
  2. Please help me understand the relationship between the Charge Temp Approximation table, and the IAT Fuel trim, when operating in the Modeled Fuel Equation mode. According to the help file block diagrams for Modeled Fuel Equation, the Charge Temp Approximation table is one of the required inputs that results in the "Air Charge Estimate" output, which in turn is an input to the Fuel Mass Calculation block, which outputs the "Fuel Mass to Inject". Based on this, is my understanding correct that if I'm using Modeled Fuel Equation mode, and I have a good IAT sensor & measurement, and
  3. Never done this before, but in theory the maximum pressure you should see in normal operation would be the relief pressure specification of the radiator pressure cap you're using. So if the cap is rated at 16psig, that's the max you would see on a gauge. I would think a blown head gasket would increase coolant pressure, but only up to the point where the cap relieves it, so again if the cap is functioning it would be 16psig in this example.
  4. When using the PC logging, is it possible to append logs from multiple road tuning sessions to create one very large log file that captures the data from the multiple road tuning sessions? Normally when I record a PC log, and hit save, it saves the log from that session and gives the file a default name with the date/time. Now if I take the car out the next day for another road tuning session, and record log data, if I were to hit "save as" and select the same log file name from the prior day, will the new data be appended to that log file (creating the larger log file I want), or will it
  5. Thanks Adam, I think I have a strategy for tuning this table now. Worst case for heat transfer from the engine block to the intake air would be when the air is stagnant or not flowing rapidly thru the manifold, so I think idling or cranking to start after a heat soak would represent a worst case condition. Here's the test I came up with, based on your advice above - please comment if I'm missing something: 1. Set the entire charge temp approximation table to zeros 2. Get car up to full operating temperature and let it idle while logging my CLT, IAT, UIM air temp and lambda (measured
  6. I'm using the modeled fueling method on my G4+ Fury, and am looking for guidance on how to properly set up this table. I understand the math behind how this table is used to compute a charge temp from the IAT and CLT inputs, but was interested if anyone had some empirical data for the FD to share to inform these table inputs. In my case, I have a fast reacting GM IAT sensor installed in the throttle body elbow, and I also log data from a 2nd Bosch air temp sensor that is installed in the OEM location in the upper intake manifold (UIM). Generally, these 2 sensors track and agree with one a
  7. Adam is spot on with the battery; I can also see in that log that your alternator isn't putting out enough juice to charge the battery (i.e., >13.5V) until your RPMs get above ~ 1500RPMs, so there may be an alternator issue as well to deal with. Recommend putting in a new battery, and then test your charging voltage at idle.
  8. Probably a dumb question, but assuming I make the tweaks as described in that Realdash.pdf document previously posted to connect the Realdash app on my android smartphone via the USB tuning cable on my Link Fury G4+, would those changes prevent or impede me from using PCLink tuning software with a laptop? Obviously not looking to run both apps off the same USB cable simultaneously; I just want to know if I would need to revert the tweaks required for connecting the Realdash/smartphone usage before plugging in the laptop again and using the PCLink app? Thanks!
  9. Thanks, ^that would explain it. Just checked, and the "Run when stalled" was set to YES. A few weeks ago I flipped that setting from NO so I could tune the post-start & warm up enrichment tables for the cold weather, and forgot to flip it back when I was done. Looks like the sensor is toast though, I tried running it again with that setting flipped OFF, and am still getting the errors in the log and the 0.000 average lambda readings.
  10. I'm running a G4+ Fury with the internal lambda sensor. Normally, shortly after starting the car and the sensor reaches operating temperature, I'll see average Lambda values on PCLink display reasonably close to the target lambda value. Today the average lambda was staying at 0.000, and it didn't budge, so I pulled a log to try to figure out what was going on. Not sure what to make of the data in the log, but it looks like some weird behavior based on the "Lambda 1 Error" status messages in the log. If someone can take a quick look at the log file linked here and advise, I'd appreciate it
  11. I'm running a G4+ Fury with a modified single turbo FD RX7. Since I added a couple of Bosch knock sensors to the motor (1 on each rotor housing in the OEM location, using the Bosch broadband "donut" style sensors), I was wondering how I would go about testing/characterizing the sensor's outputs, but not necessarily have them do anything with regards to actually control knock at this point? (i.e., take action to retard timing, etc.). Will setting all the values in the Knock Target Table to maximum of 1000 do the trick? That way I can log the outputs of my knock sensors without them interve
  12. Thanks gents, it seems I did forget to hit "enter" after making the changes yesterday - re-did the procedure and all is good now! Surprised my motor was running as well as it was, as the trigger cal done by the previous owner was about 8~10* more advanced than it should have been.
  13. Hmmm, I'm pretty sure I did, but I'll try the procedure again later when I'm back to the garage and let you know how it goes
  14. Some background - I've got a series 6 RX7 that is running a G4+ Fury, and its using the OEM VR trigger wheel & VR sensors. The car's previous owner originally did the trigger calibration procedure, but I'd like to be able to verify it to ensure it's correct, so I set out to follow the rotary trigger calibration procedure as described in the help file. Following that procedure, after I hit "Set Base Timing" in the calibrate menu, the set base timing window opened up as it should and I can change both the "Lock Ignition Timing" and "Adjust Offset" values, but any change made here appear
  15. I've been using a program called TinyCAD for my schematics. It's a freeware program, runs on Windows, and is pretty easy to figure out and use. It also includes a pretty decent library of electrical/electronic components (resistors, diodes, etc.), and you can create your own components to add to the library. More info & download can be found here: https://www.tinycad.net
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