Chipsminor
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Posts posted by Chipsminor
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Hello,
We installed an Atom G4+ on a golf mk2 with a 60-2 Trigger kit at the crank pulley
The problem is that Atom doesnt have a trigger scope and i cant figure the problem.
The car runs ok but when it reaches high RPM the car stalls and doesnt get any rpm for some minutes. When i run the car smooth at low rpm then it has no problem. Could the Crank sensor be faulty or overheating? I tried various clearance lengths at the crank sensor and the 1mm was the best. Car battery Voltage is good and everything grounded properly.
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Hello guys,
I installed an MXG Strada 1.2 on a Skyline R33 with Link G4+ PlugIn.
I Used the Base_Can 500k Setup and everything works perfectly except the Vehicle Speed. I Used the Speed 1 in the MXG Setup for the vehicle speed.
My Question is, what exactly is Speed 1, 2, 3 and 4 in the MXG Canbus setup?
Is Speed 1 the FL wheel speed, 2 FR... Etc?
The Car is Tuned and Speed is Calibrated Properly, gears are calibrated and even boost by gear works.
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2 hours ago, Adamw said:
I was replying at the same time as Vaughan, but I will leave my thoughts here too...
Most likely a lack of ignition system energy. There are no cuts or limiters in the log. Dwell is quite stable and no recorded trig 1 error so my initial feeling is unlikely a trigger issue.
But please do a PC log so all data is recorded. You dont even have MAP, lambda, or anything fuel related recorded in that log so very few clues to work with.
I did a Pc full Log but until i tried to save it my laptop battery died and lost it... i will log again tomorrow maybe and update the post... thank you
Map Readings and lambda readings are good and cant see any trigger errors... No fuel readings since we dont have sensors hooked up. Do you want to upload any trigger scope to check better?
What settings do i have to change so i can bypass the igniter? Its a common Problem on these cars.
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Hello Guys,
We have installed a Plugin Evo I-III Link G4X on our Mitsubishi GTO V6 Turbo.
Car Runs Good with Nice AFR, and idles good. All the modifications and pin replacements were done and everything was tested.
When we try to full throttle and give some Boost the car does a Cut (Not Misfire) like a Limiter and then revs a bit up and again Cuts and goes like this.
The weird thing is that the car was doing the exact same thing with the stock ECU. We get no Errors or Faults or Any helpful statistics. Triggers are also Good, and Fuel Pressure is Good.
Log File Attached Here : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LKE-3oNmNYV7o0vpt0LUNVYmPINV5RbP/view?usp=sharing
Thank you!
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The Problem is back again after 2 months... whats going on...?
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3 hours ago, dx4picco said:
If I am not mistaken this engine has direct injection. So the xtrem will not be able to control that. Furthermore I don't think any of the CANbus communication is available on this plateform with link so that may be an issue too.
Thats the questions i want to be answered to be true! Thanks for the answer though
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Hello guys!
Can i use a link ecu g4x extreme on my vw scirocco R and have everything connected to it as the stock one is? Cdl Engine 2.0 tfsi
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Okay problem is solved. The injectors power fuse was blown thats what was causing the not starting issue... Now the car starts and everything is perfect and finally i fixed the rev limiter issue. The problem was solved when i figured that the square plate with the 4 bolts was not installed on the camshaft pulley behind the trigger wheel. I put that plate on and also a 0.9 sensor spacer that was in the kit and the problem was almost gone! Then i changed the rev limiter to advanced and 50rpm cut and it sorted everything out! Thanks for your support! I figgured everything out when my last chance was the belt tension! Have a nice Day/Night!
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11 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Can you confirm what pins the new trigger wiring is connected to?
Does the cam sensor have 3 pins or two?
Can you pull the spark plugs out and do a triggerscope while cranking with no plugs in. I want to see if the waveform improves with higher cranking speed. Save as log and attach the actual log file so I can look at it in more detail.
Can you also attach a copy of your current tune and a PC log of it cranking.
It is a two wire trigger. It is connected on pins 42 and 60 (alone).
everything you asked is attached. i didn't pull the spark plugs but put a battery booster on the car and it cranks faster. it has difference, more powerful signal i believe!
george skyline.pclr Trigger Scope Log 2021-01-20 11;11;07 am.llg
16 minutes ago, Adamw said:Can you confirm what pins the new trigger wiring is connected to?
Does the cam sensor have 3 pins or two?
Can you pull the spark plugs out and do a triggerscope while cranking with no plugs in. I want to see if the waveform improves with higher cranking speed. Save as log and attach the actual log file so I can look at it in more detail.
Can you also attach a copy of your current tune and a PC log of it cranking.
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10 hours ago, koracing said:
It could be tuning as well - perhaps your cold start settings need some adjustment? As a test you can try just adding a lot more fuel on the base table at the values around zero rpm and see if it changes anything. By a lot I mean multiply by like 1.2-1.5 for a quick test.
No... The car was working perfect before messing with the wiring... Just had spikes on high rpm! here is the scope now... And the car throws trigger errors and not starting... Tried 0.3 on thresshold but no luck.
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3 minutes ago, koracing said:
Yes that looks correct on trigger 1. Are you getting RPM showing in the ecu when you crank with that set that way? Your arming threshold at zero rpm was 0.2V (200mV) and at 1000rpm was 1.0V. The missing tooth may be close to that arming threshold so maybe try 0.3V at zero rpm instead.
i get 150 to 180 rpm with this setup. i have it set to 0.2 at 0 rpm and 1.0 at 1000 rpm. i will check tomorrow and let you know thank you! So if i get this scope i have to check somewhere else for issues if its not starting? The problem is that i didnt do the wiring and thats the hard for me!
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Is this how it should be?
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18 hours ago, Adamw said:
With switches in "Other models" position, Trigger 1 is pin 42 or 52, Trigger 2 is pin 41 or 51.
With switches in "R34" position, Trigger 1 is pin 41 or 51 and Trigger 2 is pin 42 or 52.
So basically just trig 1 and 2 connections are swapped.
I know you can help me a lot! And i tried to send you a message but you dont receive messages which is very legit! I want to discuss some things with you so you can help me out! Thank you!
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1 hour ago, koracing said:
Comparing your old scope for the crank position with the new one it looks kind of like the trigger signal is inverted.
Perhaps your new trigger wires are inverted?
I tried them also inverted... I tried them with 5v instead of ground... I tried everything... It seems there was a bad connection somewhere and it was cut! Tomorrow i will know since i have a loan link g4 gtr+ for test! If it doesnt work too i will take the wiring out and make one by myself!
Could those dipswitches be faulty? i checked with my multimeter the pin 42 with the mainboard pin and it seems okay though!
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54 minutes ago, koracing said:
Did the car run yesterday? You are missing the trigger 2 there. I predict it isn't the ecu. You've already said you have been chasing wiring issues. I'd put my money on the car since I know link tests all of their products pretty well. Your previous triggers were showing +/- 20V input? That's pretty high isn't it?
The car doesnt have trigger 2! We only have a cam 24-1 trigger kit from nzwiring as trigger 1. The trigger 2 wasnt supposed to show something. The car was running yesterday and was doing problems over 6000 rpm. Later i found many bad connections on the ecu that i fixed and now the car is not starting at all and shows this bad trigger signal. I dont know whats happening. I have a clean new triger wiring also new sensor and freshly connected on the ecu! And i get this crap for trigger signal.
The wiring is fully tested and all the contacts also... From inside of the ecu to the plugs! Today it threw 2 analog faults that were fixed by pressing the ecu small board to the big board! (after replacing both cables with external ones for test amd plenty of hours of research. -
From yesterday the car is not starting! Whatever i do. I installed new wire from outside of the car wiring, replaced sensor and everything! Here is the trigger scope attached! Very distorted! Ot seems like the ecu is the problem! Nothing else to do on that one!
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3 hours ago, Adamw said:
The DIP switches just swap the trigger 1 & trigger 2 pins with each other to suit the R34 CAS which is reversed compared to R32/33. Trigger 1 connected to pin 42 would be the normal R32/R33 wiring so the DIP switches would be set per the "Other models" config.
Do you remember how did you solve this one my friend? It seems like a very similar issue like us!
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So if the dip switches are set to R34 the trigers go to pins 51 and 52? Or just reversing the trigger 1 to trigger 2? If it is how i understand, what are the pins 51 and 52?
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Hello guys! I am still fighting with this issue. These days i have been fighting with the wiring of the car, weak pins and some wiring bad connections and also trigger wiring was short somehow. Just to make it clear, i have my CAS connected to trigger 1 (Pin42) and the sensor ground to the signal ground (pin 50) is this correct? There are 4 dipswitches on the board. how should they be with this wiring setup? Thank you
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Can someone answer me a simple question? Can a bad connection/short of 5V analog input power produce these spikes?
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I am just deleting posibilities. Could it be a link problem? If i connect trigger on trigger 2 and try it?
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Today i did some more tests that cost me plenty of hours. i raised the car on the jack so i checked all the wirings Under the car. I Checked all the Wirings in the Engine Bay and i found 1 loose Ground.I also Checked the Entire interior, Under the dash and everywhere. I Started the car and shake the whole Wiring inside out of the Car so i said enough! Wiring is not the Problem. I put another Fresh Ground from the body to the engine and from there to the coils! I went for a Test Drive and still the Same Issue but a bit better. And then i think i did something else for a test, i put a 0.1mm spacer on the trigger sensor to go far from the wheel and boom! The Problem got Bigger! it was doing the exact same thing but on lower revs! So from idle revving to 3000rpm t was causing Spikes Reading over the limiter! So finally i tookanother Longer Sensor and put it on a little bit Closer than the first place i had my sensor and the car Starts Faster Than before. I will Test Tomorrow and Let you know! Thank you!
3 hours ago, koracing said:What are you trigger filters set to? I had a customer with rpm spikes that was due to the filter being set too high instead of properly adjusting reluctor arming thresholds. Too high of filtering can miss teeth at higher rpm.
My filters are all at 1 (low) i tested all the filters but its getting worse! Thank you
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I will check the whole car wiring to figure out whats happening. But is there any way to tweak the trigger setup and avoid the interference? We have it set as a Reluctor type! Filtering doing nothing!
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We Have Splitfire Blue Coils and they are mounted with the metal original mount which is a good ground on the engine!
Golf mk2 Link Atom Trigger Problem
in G4+
Posted
It is a reluctor sensor.
Dwell time is set to 1.5 and 50ms delay.
I used a Twisted high quality Trigger wiring separated from the car engine wiring for troubleshooting and still the same. We used a vw golf mk6 Coil Pack with magnecor wires for that setup. (we had a motec before link and we had a trigger issue too. It was Reving at 6k max)
No trigger signal when hot and not starting.
We are going to use a mercedes oem crank sensor instead of the universal ones and see what happens. If you have any ideas it would be helpful.
RPM in the datalogging are not smooth, it seems like a heartbeat graph.
Thank you.