Jump to content

monya

Members
  • Posts

    39
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by monya

  1. yeah i wasnt really planning on using an adruino in the imo system,, just was going to use it to sniff the line, seems counterintuitive to wire in a arduino, probably make it easier to bypass if it was found, ill probably just have to set some logic up on some buttons seems like alot less hassle  

  2. 1 hour ago, Vaughan said:

    The Imo pin has single wire serial communications on it and we found under our testing with a key start 86 and a push start BRZ that you don't need to do anything on that pin to have the immobiliser light not show up.

    In terms of utilising the factory immobiliser you would need to decode how that serial communication works.

    There is no antitheft signal setup in the Link CAN

    thanks for the reply,, answers most of my questions,  my light does not show up. but i was hoping to utilize the factory immo system, i started working on a arduino binary sniffer for sniffing the serial transmission, not to sure how well its gonna work but ima give it a try, in the case i do get the proper serial data, is there even a way i could use it in logic or something ? 

  3. i turned it off, since i couldn't get it working, its been w while since i messed with it, about finished wit the car so just trying to sort out the last few things, i am trying to use the factory system,, 

  4.  wire in xtreme g4x in to my 16frs with k24, and ide like to get the immobilizer working, i have imo wire from car going to a digital input, but wasnt able to make it function, car still starts without non chipped key, so im not sure what els that it needs, is the immo sent through CAN as well ?

    im also looking to get CAN set up to get dash/ac working,  any info to share would be appreciated 

     

  5. thanks for the reply , correct i have it set to run when stalled to log the first start, confirms what i was thinking i just have never seen a number that high and thought maybe i had something wrong,, not having to calibrate it is messin with me lmao

  6. getting ready to do first start and i just got the canlambda set up in ecu it connects but reads reaaly high! 148.75 ??

    i havnt started the car yet but ive never seen a wideband go above 22-24, so im not sure if something is off or not or  if i just need get some exhaust to pass by it 

    Screenshot 2024-01-22 211224.png

  7. Thanks for the edited diagram, I have a better work around than my original idea 

    Regarding the chassis relay, it doesn’t tbh I’m just going off the factory wiring diagrams while trying to use the relays how the factory Intended, while trying not to modify the cars factory electrical system, only making modifications to my jumper harness

    adding a relay for key on + to - to control chassis relay,  should do the trick,

    thanks much! 

    image.jpg

  8. It’s way more complicated than it needs to be but I think I’ve come up with a solution, I just want to clarify if it might cause an issue, more info idk if needed but I’m wiring to a 2016 Scion frs using a kpower pnp jumper for a haltech I’ve re-pinned for the link, & all the relays are wired hot so I can’t change that, I also want to keep keyless entry so I can’t add a relay on battery cable 

     

    after melting my brain and taking a nap, I’ve come up with the idea to put a relay inline with aux1 at my jumper board/harness to connect/disconnect the vtc solenoid with key, cutting off that feed back, 
    While running other aux channels through ign/inj aux 

    @Adamw does this sound like a feasible solution?  
     

    thanks 

  9. Yeah sorry xtreme wire in, I think my issue is 12v feedback from main relay 

    e throttle relay and chassis relay are also wired for low side drive, when set to low side i get error on the aux channel with vtc and vtec solenoids , when set to high the errors go away but car doesn’t turn off, 

  10.  I found a hiccup with e-throttle wiring/relay, first I had e throttle +/- backwards,

    fixed that and then did the set up e-throttle and added the e-throttle relay & the error went away

    but car didn’t turn off with key so sorting out relay, should be fine after that tho, 

  11. Link xtreme g4x k24

    I have wired the vtc and vtec solenoids to low side, feeding them 12v & the aux 1&2 are red showing error? Doesn’t actuate when testing either,  
    When I set to high side drive the error goes away, 
    Any ideas ?

    Thanks much!  

    IMG_3299.jpeg

  12. does anyone have a good 2jzge vvti na/nat/gte  file i can use to compare what ive got ? i built my maps from a buddies g4+ monsoon 1jz vvti file on old firmware, i upgraded everything and moved to my monsoon g4x 2jzge vvti with turbo ive had the car running for a while doing my 500mile break in for my new transmission and it drives well, afr are ok, but ign and vvt i have no clue so i was wondering if anyone had a file i can compare/reference my file with just to get an ide where im at? thanks 

  13. UPDATE ive got it sorted out

    im 90%  sure the fix for me was deleting contents of %appdata%

    back up your maps/logs before you do anything....

    just incase anyone else runs into this issue,, this is what i did when uninstalling and reinstalling didnt fix it 

    type %appdata% in the toolbar at bottom of home screen hit enter,, find the PClink folder open it and then delete the contents inside,

     restart computer open PClink then close it and the next time you open it should have a new appdata file saved, back to normal 

    Screenshot (17).png

  14.  i cant figure out how to fix my issueim not sure how it got this way, but im not able to adjust the range or color line for graphs of my time plots  in parameters , when i input the changes and when i click ok it doesnt change anything, all my time plots are white cubes and zero for the min and max values making a bit difficult to read logs 

    Screenshot (6).png

×
×
  • Create New...