Grempa
-
Posts
18 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Grempa
-
-
Correct I see nothing happen when I toggle the switch. I have tried several grounds across the car, maybe it needs a direct ground? Or Maybe a special type of toggle switch and not some of Amazon specials.
Is it safe to just ground that wire from the ECU for testing? I'm also going to connect that wire from the ECU and test using the DI it was connected to toggle it, Cruise Set.
EDIT: I just tried with setting DI7 to my Cruise Set\Cancel and it worked perfectly. So it mus be a special type of toggle switch or something that I need. Going to try and get a better ground.
-
Tune attached.
I am running flex fuel and want that the most. So once I saw that GP boost table and the fact I can just lower the wastegate, I "thought" that might work. Kinda wish I could have both flex fuel and high and low boost but guessing that was not viable during design.
I am more thinking its my setup vs the tune. I am just looking for a possible way to lower boost for most of my driving and then have a way to switch it when I need it. I can also use CAN DI as I have a tablet setup, but wanted the physical switch in case that thing broke or something. -
Hello everyone,
I'm sure it just something small I am missing but I am trying to setup a High\Low boost switch using the GP Boost table (if possible). I am wiring a DI to a 2 pole switch and when I flick the switch it will pull WG%.
WRX104 tried DI7 and DI10
But for some reason when I try toggling the switch nothing happens in the runtime values. I tried changing the active state\input latch. I tried 2 different toggle switches and different ground areas. Is there another way to set this up that I am missing?
-
Can confirm it is much better.
Speed lockout= 15.5 (Just didn't think I would have to max it)
Idle base position: lowered from 176* and up.
Thanks again for all the help!
-
Highest the G4x allows, at least for me is 15.5mph. I have tried 10 and 12 mph although it was not enough. Guess I can go to the max, and try that,
Like for me, I engine break to 3rd gear then normally pop to neutral and coast in to stop and it can go for 10+secs before I hit this speed lockout. Not a big deal really, trying to be as quite as I can
-
It a big log, had to attach to google drive. Example of issue is around 13:40
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12Mi2MJs8IuHGY8-zhgziEoTpmffK0qGZ/view?usp=sharing -
Hello all,
Issue: When I am coming to a stop, in neutral, before I hit the speed lockout of 5mph the idle sits around 1400-1500rpm. Once I hit 5mph, the dashpot kicks in and idle drops like its suppose to. Just trying to lower that rpm as I am coming to a red light, instead of having the engine roaring :). Tried to mess will all the settings under idle and such but nothing really changed it.
You can see the time plot in the picture at 13:40, once it hits 5mph the idle drops.
All other aspects of the car idling are working great!!
Any direction will be helpful!
Thanks
-
Hello all,
So wanting to check that I do this right. I have a timing light that has an dial on the back, see pic.
Steps I think I should take:
1. Open "Step Base Timing" menu
2. Lock ignition timing to 10*
3. On timing light, set dial to 10* or 0* ?
4. Mark on crank pulley should show 10* ?
This little dial has be a little confused on what I should set it to and what I should see on the pulley. Internet just made me more confused
Thanks,
-
Hello all,
Looking for some advice here on my start up and idle. This is for a 2006 Subaru STI with a WRX104.
Looking at the picture below, I'm trying to, if possible, stop the car from rev so high on initial start up, first circle. Then after a few seconds the car dips to low RPM and recovers.
I have tried many combinations of settings but I must be missing something.
Log file of start up attached as well as my current map. FYI I am breaking in the motor so the map is not final in anyway and I do not see boost or +4k RPM for now.
PC Datalog - 2022-04-4 7;11;54 pm.llgx 2006-Subaru-STiWRX104-working v2.4-e85.pclx
-
I made the arming threshold change and waited 20-30 mins after warm up to restart a few times and no issue as of now.
Seems that change may have helped with the car starting fast and smoother as well.
I'll have to do some more testing, and report back.
Adam:
-
Well I tried to replicate the issue during my lunch, it happened once but ecu disconnected and was not able to get a trigger log, will try again.
I did get a good "normal" trigger log and I also see that dwell is also 0 until it actually starts. I'll work on getting a log when the restart is having issues.
A side thing I noticed, when going turning key from ACC to ignition on I hear the relays under the hood kinda double click. I think the main and sub fan relay are double clicking instead of just tripping, the fans also spin for a quick second and stops. My fuel pump relay also double clicks, like I hear the pump click on and off then back on very fast. IDK if that is just normal power procedure or not, but nothing seems to be affected and car drives fine.
PC Datalog - 2020-09-29 12;21;03 pm-NORMAL HOT sTART.llgx TriggerScopeLog-NORMAL HOT-START.llgx.llgx
-
Hello All,
2006 Subaru STI - Link ECU WRX104 V10
Using the setting from the help file currently for cam/crank. Car is running and driving with no issues as far as I can tell. But upon turning off the car and running into the store for 15 mins then restating the car, its hard to restart (still need to fine tune hot restart numbers). I see that Trigger 1 has a few errors and "Trigger 1 State" shows Test Gap and or Blank teeth.
Attaching Calibration file and big log, restart is around 18mins in.
Trigger scope log attached if needed.
Log File:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/11DyJ7QKArGqfvqIR_zeSHXL7fVnAi6Mj/view?usp=sharing
-
Thanks for all the help Adam. So happy I choose Link!
I'll update the post with the next steps after speaking with support.
-
Alright I'll give the US tech support a call on Monday and see what they say. I just went though and double checked all my wiring and all the setting sin link ecu. I even checked a few other users calibration files on they match mine for my ecu model.
Here a quick you tube video to give some visual of what I mean.
-
Tried swapping the fans and AUX around as Adam suggested, but still no luck.
Anthony, this is a plug n play ECU its pre configured in a sense. But yes, both fans are set to low, as seen in the pics above
EDIT:
So this is more odd. I cut wire B25 and spliced it into B24. Both fans come on now, we figured that, don't know if it can stay this way? BUT the odd thing is PC link is so much fast now. ECU would reconnect 2 or 3 times when first turning on key, plus opening and closing windows and tables was slow like 5 seconds to open. Now even thing is super fast, now that B25 is not connected to anything. Maybe there is an issue with this PCB or something?
-
@Adamw Yes grounding pin B25 caused the fan to come on, hmm. ECU still outputs 12v weather test is on or off
-
Hello all,
2006 Subaru STi with a WRX104 PnP ECU here
Issue is the A/C fan will come on and work with no issues, even with "test". The engine fan does not come on at all, even trying with "test".
I have check all connections from the ECU all the way to the relay, here is what I found. From ECU Pinout B24, when I enable test in Link the voltage will drop from 12v(Batt Volt) to 0 and trigger the relay to kick on the fan for Engine Fan 3 (Aux Ign 5), good. But for ECU Pinout B25 (Engine Fan 1, Aux Ign 7) its stays at 12v(Batt Volt) when I enable test mode, and fan or relay are not triggering.
To test, I re-installed the OEM ECU and both fans work just fine. Not sure is this is Link ECU issue or maybe the wiring is different for some reason on my car.
I have attached all the pertaining photos and my calibration file.
GP Boost Tables for high low boost
in G4x
Posted
Well, I feel like a dummy. It was the ground, just did not realize how specific the source had to be, have not run into any issues so far.
Thanks for the support Laminar