Tidi0x

I am looking to build a canbus for my gtrlink for my wideband. I am most likely going to create the twisted pair and put the 120r resistor at the end of the line, but I wanted to confirm that if I wanted to I could loop the can1 to can2 instead of running the resistor. Also I notice the resistor needs to be a minimum of 1/4 watt is there a maximum? or suggested way wattage to use?

Thank you Adam, you are correct I received these today and although they thread in, it is a very loose fit because of the taper. I am debating utilizing Loctite 620 or RTV as a sealing compound to remove the loose fit.... or chop my OE sensors and tap them... Decisions... Thank you again for the input.

Thank you Adam, Good suggestion I can give that a shot if what I ordered does not show up. For reference If someone searches this up, I did order these... It is a thread in stud that adapts the larger hole down to an m8 stud. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-Knock-sensor-bolt-stud-adapter-1JZ-2JZ-RB25-1UZ-2UZ-CA18-3SGE-3SGTE/154341518979?hash=item23ef78ae83:g:oLoAAOSwLYRgRRTf

Hello, I am building my R33's Rb25det from the ground up, and with this I had wiring specialties produce a brand new harness, with this I decided it was a good idea to replace the stock narrow band knock sensors with the link knock sensors PN:LINK-101-0053 for my G4X. My predicament is the fact that the Donut style sensor accepts a smaller bolt diameter than the standard location. I only see two options here show in my images below. Reference, Hole 1 is a smaller, and an (I think) unused hole... Hole 2 is the stock location knock sensor hole. 1. Run the sensor in the non standard hole (hole 1) with a smaller M6 size bolt (I think that is the size). My worry here is that not matching the donut with a bolt to match the bore will reduce the effectiveness of the sensor, also the location is not ideal not being on Cylinder 2 rather cylinder 3 close to the other sensor. However the machined surface should provide good results. 2. Run the sensor in the stock location with a thread in size adapter. My worry with this is if the thread adapter is brass it could reduce the sensor effectiveness acting as an insulator, similarly a steel one might do the same. Am I being overly cautious? The last thing I want is to get the build in the car and notice my knock sensors are not functioning appropriately. Thank you for any feedback!