Jump to content

Bigjoe1

Members
  • Posts

    3
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Bigjoe1's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

0

Reputation

  1. Bigjoe1

    1jz Misfire

    I'm back again unfortunately. After my last post I changed my iginter, new coil packs and leads, new fpr and nothing changed until the engine started to stall randomly while driving. It turned out to be my map sensor that was on its way out. It never gave any fault codes but whenever it stalled it may or may not have restarted due to the Map reading being completely off from the Bap. I'd have to blow into it or suck vacuum to get it to read normally again. It was an omni power GM 3 bar map sensor btw. I changed the map sensor to a new link 4 bar map sensor, calibrated it and the car started and idled at the correct lambda (couldn't drive it immediately due to being under covid lock down at the point in time). When we came out of lock down, I took the car for a drive and it pulled phenomenally throughout the rev range without any issues and stayed around 10.9/11 afr at wot, but when i came to a stop the afr's steadily crept up past the afr target. I checked everything and realised that I hadn't stored the 4 bar map sensor calibration to ecu (yes, I know stupid of me). So I set up the map sensor once more (Link 4 bar, Error Value low: 0.2, Error Value high: 4.8), calibrated it and made sure to store it this time. Well, it's gone back doing the very same thing again that it initially did. Idles perfect and under light load but goes straight to bring super rich under wot and starts to break up. AN 1 shows 1.17V and the Map shows 101 kPa to the Bap's 101.5 kPa so everything looks legit. Is it possible that the scaling on the link map sensor and the fuel tables don't agree and it needs to be re-tuned?
  2. Bigjoe1

    1jz Misfire

    Thanks for the reply and the help. I changed the dwell time to 1.8 from 2k right up to 7k, then took it for a drive but forgot to take logs this time. It did the same thing but seemed a little less hesitant than it did before. Think I may try to getting a new igniter or change to platinum plugs since I'm out of ideas.
  3. Bigjoe1

    1jz Misfire

    Hi, I've been scouring through the forums for a while but I'm not sure I am seeing anything at present that may help my situation. I have a Toyota Mark II GX110 (1gfe engine to the jzx110). However I transplanted a 1jz vvti with R154. It standard wasted spark ignition, 750cc injectors, BW turbo. The car had a startup map where the boost was limited to 5psi and rpm limited to 4k. Acquired the services of a remote tuner and after giving all of the parameters of the build, I went to do some road tuning. A map was placed on to the ecu and everything seemed fine at idle and cruising until trying to go wot above 4k rpm. The engine would misfire and would not be able to hold the rpm. The tuner told me the timing and map was fine and to gap my plugs to 0.020. I had gap them initially to 0.026. It took it home, gapped them to 0.020 and i also changed the coil packs to another set I had laying around. I had previously installed new NGK plug wires before tuning as well. Took the car back out and it did the same again. I noticed that the wideband kept going directly to 9.5/9.8 under full load. I have an innovate mtx-l (seems they aren't too much liked). I actually did a log this time and emailed the tuner since I wanted to know if he saw something wrong going on but I have not heard from him in a week now and he seems to have time since he's posting to instagram . I'm not sure if it's something that can be deciphered by looking at the ecu or not. If there's anyone that can assist by viewing the log I would greatly appreciate it since my tuning knowledge is rather limited. Thank you. 2020.11.22.llg
×
×
  • Create New...