Aaron C

I pulled everything out and very carefully reinstalled everything and ensured the initial start checklist was completed to the letter. All wiring and sensors were independently tested and verified. Still not getting anything out of the ecu and there isn't any Link support where I'm at since everyone is dealing with AEM or Haltech. Since I'm not making progress with it and I can't get it to work, I opted to put it in the bin and ordered a Haltech 2500. Seems like the G4 is an awesome ECU if it can get going, but no one where I'm at will even tune it and the dealer that sold it to me doesn't want to do an E-tune with me on the dyno for data if I got it running. Lesson learned, ensure there is support in your geographic area prior to purchase.

Well that does put my mind at ease a bit, but confuses me even more then. I'm under the impression that the 1° signal is for the cam and the 120° signal is for the crank, so that is how I have them wired. I'm running an R32 engine/harness, so I have the DIP switches set to other. The wiring harness continuity checks out good with the DMM. If the trigger inputs are working correctly, that means that there has to be something wrong with the settings that I have...correct? So if trigger 1 (120°) is for the crank with a 12 tooth gear on it, pullup is on, and its set to falling. Trigger 2 (1°) is for the cam (pulse 1x), pullup on, and its set to falling. Neither of these triggers scope out, but yet the crank trigger bench tests good and the cam trigger(s) won't bench test at all. I've updated PClink and the firmware. Maybe retry calibrating the sensors?

If anything, I would bet that the factory CAS is worn. I checked out the wiring though and it's good to go. As I was doing this test, it still registered as zero rpm through the ECU though and my PRP triggers aren't doing anything. This is definitely a weird situation and I'm not sure what else to look at. I can't help but feel that I've checked everything off the top of my head.

I managed to do a continuity test on the wiring harness and everything checked out. Through some ingenuity and acrobatics I was able to get a trigger scope with the factory CAS. I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for, but one of the signals doesn't look how I would think it should. When I attempted to do a trigger scope with the hall sensors, it didn't pulse at all on either of the triggers. The bench test showed the voltage drop on the crank trigger when I used a multi-meter, but none of the cam sensors saw a change during the same test. Trigger Scope Log 2021-01-13 4;25;11 pm.llg Here's a picture in case there is something wrong with the log.

I'll try to figure out a way to do it. I'm kind of in the middle of nowhere and don't have another set of hands to assist. The USB cord won't reach into my bay and I can't fold the engine harness over with how everything is routed. Trigger scopes are new to me, so I'm still learning about how they work and what information they tell. If I just hit capture then run around and spin it by hand will it still get the necessary data? Either way, I'll give it a go and let you know how it turns out.

I had already swapped the PRP trigger kit back on before I saw the message from you Adam. I did try a trigger scope with the PRP kit and I'm getting steady voltage without change. I also reinstalled the pclink software and did a firmware update. No change with my trigger issue. Then I loaded up the base R32 GTR map and made the changes for the triggers only to see if maybe it was a bad setting, but it had no effect. Still no rpm and Link is saying there isn't signals from either hall sensor. Next time I'm out there I'll do a continuity check from the bay to the ecu to rule out a wiring issue, but I'm just so confused right now.

The pins I swapped were the 1° and the 120° pins on the jumper harness that I made. So the 4V signal wire from the Cam was switched to the Crank and vice versa. So I have the crank as my 120° signal and the cam as the other based off what I read in the FSM. I tried to use the PRP online instructions, but they've changed since I got the kit and I'm wasn't sure which one to use. This afternoon I took off the sensors and installed the factory CAS which also eliminated the jumper harness. I followed the steps to use the factory optical sensor. Interestingly enough, I still don't have RPM and it said that it had input from trigger 2. I'm going to go ahead and OHM out the engine harness just to rule out possible damage, but it's a brand new harness from Wiring Specialties so I'm thinking it should be ok. The only other thing is the ECU. Maybe it's damaged, the settings are somehow off, or maybe it has an old firmware of something that is making it act weird.

Correct, but swapping sensors didn't yield any change. Although I didn't physically swap the cam and crank sensors, I did replace the cam sensor 3 times without effect. Either way, the crank sensor is testing fine but the ECU isn't seeing any input from it. Leading me to believe that the issue lies with the ECU (whether its settings or something else). Regarding a known working area in the jumper harness, by swapping pins on the harness I effectively moved the non-working sensor to a known working point. So no matter what I can't get a cam sensor to work correctly. The harness has been tested, the sensors have been swapped, and I've played around with the settings within the ECU. I'm not sure what else to do except to remove it all and install the factory CAS and go from there. If there was a legitimate Link tuner in my area I'd just trailer it over there, but Link hasn't had an impact where I live. Nothing buy Haltech and AEM.

I created a jumper harness that "Y's" from the factory CAS plug to each sensor. Then each sensor has about a 150mm lead going to the male connector. This was solely to facilitate ease of sensor replacement if/when the need arrived. Instead of rewiring things for the new sensor, I have my back up sensors ready with the DTM already crimped on. Removal and replacement can happen in just a couple minutes. You can kind of see the flying lead in the picture I've attached. When I switched the cam and crank signal, I simply swapped pins on my jumper harness for the 4V signal.

I'm testing with a multimeter. I don't have a second set of hands where I'm at, so I've been trying to do things solo. I used a pair of spade connectors and clipped my multimeter into them. I then added a 300mm lead to each connector and soldered some mechanics wire onto the end and inserted these into the back of the connector on the ground and on the signal wires. With the multimeter set up, I am passing a tool over the sensor to simulate cranking and measuring the 4V value to check for a voltage drop. The 120° signal sees a voltage change as the tool passes over the sensor, but the 1° sensor does not change at all. The link software states that its not receiving a signal at all from either of these hall sensors. I also thought that maybe the signal was being received incorrectly, so last night I swapped pins on the connector and did not see any change in voltage from the cam sensor.

RB26 w-PRP triggers.pclr A bit of an update.... I suspected I may have received a bad cam sensor, so I ordered another one. Once it arrived, I verified voltage on the harness side of things and got: Ground / 12V / 4V / 4V This new sensor did not change voltage as my tool passed over it. Thinking it was highly unlikely, but not impossible, I borrowed another sensor to just plug in and check. This also did not have a voltage change during the test through the harness. Since I'm getting the appropriate voltage to the sensors, I thought it HAS to be something with the ECU. Lurking through the forums again, I opted to try changing the trigger settings to the Subaru V1-6; store and power cycle. Once I changed back, I was still not getting any registration from the triggers. I verified my the wiring and triggers again, but I'm still not having any luck getting a signal from these sensors. A bench test of the crank sensor shows that it is working correctly, the cam sensor won't display a voltage change at all. I'm just about out of ideas regarding how to get this thing to fire. I'd really hate to ditch this set-up for the OEM CAS, but I can't think of anything else at the moment. Does anyone happen to see anything that I may have overlooked?

I went out today and did some more looking at the sensors. I'm getting ground, 12V, 4V, 4V across the pigtail from the chassis side. With the connections tight, I ran an allen key over the two sensors with no effect, still 4V across the 1° and 120° signal wires. I was under the assumption that as the tooth passes over the sensor, it was to complete the circuit to send voltage to the ECU which would indicate position?

Adam, You're correct that they're 3 wire sensors. Once I started having this issue, I went ahead and confirmed 12V at the harness, but I haven't checked voltage coming back out. I'm just really confused that I was getting a signal before, but nothing anymore. Hence why I thought maybe I had accidentally changed something when the sensor parameters were getting set up. Thank you for the input though. Knowing that the ECU configuration looks good and so I need to start looking in other areas gives me a bit of solace. Gsab, Yeah I'm running the 12 tooth kit on mine. Against my better judgement I completely built the car in one go as opposed to doing it slowly. Now I'm not entirely certain on where the failure point is haha. I've had some issues with the Wiring Specialties harness (again) and so I'm wondering if something is going on there instead of with the trigger kit. When you had the PRP sensor fail on you, were you still getting a signal on the other trigger?

Hello everyone, I've been a lurker for awhile, but I've finally decided to create an account to learn more about this management system. I have an RB26 sitting in an S14 chassis. I made the mistake of doing too much at one time and just about every aspect of the car has been changed. For the initial start, I loaded up the base map and scaled the injectors for the ID 1700's and set up the Platinum Racing Products cam and crank trigger kit. The first attempt was a bit lackluster with a crank no start scenario. I noticed that I wasn't getting oil pressure or fuel pressure through the ECU, but I knew that I had pressure on both from a mechanical verification. I disconnected the ECU and calibrated calibrated the Fuel Pressure, Oil Pressure, Flex Fuel, and Wideband sensors. Once I reconnected it, I am no longer getting a trigger signal from the cam or crank. I've searched through the interwebs and verified the previous recommendations (double checked DIP switches, hit F12 to monitor triggers). Now I'm getting 2 no's on the trigger signals and zero RPM reading even when I've loaded up a previous map. I've included a copy of my map and a log from the first start attempt. The battery was a bit low on this attempt due to having everything on for initial set up hence the low rpm at 30 seconds. If someone has some spare time, would you mind taking a quick look to see if anything jumps out. RB26 w-PRP triggers.pclr First start attempt.llg