Dannyboi1320

I just finished doing a few small pulls up and down the street. the laptop is updating. i should be posting a log here shortly. thank you

Another thing to note, im not sure how they wired my boost control solenoid into my harness. i dont see any Aux/Anolog things referencing boost control. i saw them make full pulls with my car on the dyno but ever since i got my car back ive never been able to do a high boost pull. it hits boost cut immediately. i assume i cant just pick any Aux and set it to boost control (like evans youtube video) i need to actually wire it in correctly to match the correct Aux Pinout.

Hello everyone, I'm a bit of a newb so please excuse my lack of knowledge. I have a 600hp E36 (G35-900, RSI manifold, 60lb injectors, link G4x) its been tuned by a shop blah blah blah. So the issue im having is the car lives on boost cut. I have a switch on the dash that they wired in to turn the boost controller on or off, i used to be able to flip from wastegate (11psi) to "high boost" (18psi) but in the high setting it seems like the turbo just has 0 boost control. as soon as i come into throttle it smacks 20psi and hits "boost cut" Ive gone through the ecu settings as best as i can, and the only thing ive found is the "240kpH" map cut. so anytime i see that amount of boost the ecu just cuts ignition. its really frustrating. So ive been watching videos on youtube where the guys kinda walk you through "boost control" and its ALOT lol. is there anyone on here that may be willing to help me sort through this? or point me in the right direction? is there an easy to follow video that i can look at? i really appreciate any and all of the help i can get at this point. im considering going to a manual boost controller and be done with it. or find the right wastegate spring to put me right at 18 psi.

in my case i had to take the master fuel from 20ms down to 4ms and the car runs and idles top notch. try messing with fuel trims, seems like its pig rich (as noted by the great adam himself, setup a wideband and trim up some fuel)

Update - She Runs! So, i guess i have to admit it lol. After poking around in the engine bay, and not really seeing anything out of the ordinary, i began asking other friends with Link setups for help, we checked over all of the settings and everything checked out (found that i never set up my injector dead times! good catch!) and he mentions (i know you know your stuff but did you maybe put the fuel lines backwards?) sure-enough. Fuel lines backwards. Now after fixing the fuel the car still wouldnt start, and i just about gave up. i literally called the tuner and setup a day to drop the car off and have them "finish" it. but i dont accept defeat easily. so i decided to swap the IACV and the Crank sensor around (was told these 2 commonly get mixed up) but confirmed that i had them correct the first time. however i noticed i just simply didnt have any spark. going down that rabbit hole i decided the cam shaft position sensor wiring has got to be swapped with one of the other sensors. So Reluctantly i remove the intake, also hoping to find my missing 11mm from previously lol. [VALUABLE INFORMATION ZONE] A quick glance i noticed that the 2 knock sensor wires were just wrong, 1 was shielded, 1 was not. (ERROR) i did some digging and found out that there are 3 shielded wires for all bmw M5X/S5X. the 2 Knock sensors and the Crankshaft position sensor. of the 3 shielded wires only 2 of the 3 will be 2 wire, (knock sensors) and the only 3 wire is a crankshaft position sensor. Using the process of elimination i found every other plug. 2x 2 wire plugs 1 for vanos, and 1 for intake air temp (air temp is long, vanos is bunched into the harness) the 1 wire plug is for the oil sensor, TPS is the longest of them all. Anyways now im a wiring harness master LOL. and the car runs. Had the knock and cam sensor swapped (oops) fuel lines backwards (oops) Car runs !

Ok so its normal that the pump still primes with ignition. it just turns of the injector side of things good to note. not sure why the ECU just immediately turns off during crank. its quite annoying. ive followed some of the youtube videos with 0 luck. I am assuming once i solve the ECU powering off issue it will fire right up. every other preliminary test ive done passes. im close to throwing the stock ECU back in and seeing if it will fire up there. a couple good friends plugged this ECU right in and fired their turbo cars up first try. such is life.

Thanks for the reply adam, in the instructions where it talks about "Trigger calibration" it says to turn off fuel in the settings, store to ecu, save. it says to power down and turn back on to see if the fuel is truly off. i cant get the car to stop priming everytime the key is flipped is this normal?

Hello everyone, It's been a long time since ive done the forum thing but, here i am! Im not sure where to post this but i am looking for any advice i can get. Im currently working on an OBD1 1992 325IS - M52B28 swapped, GT3582R, 62lb Siemen Deka setup. Things to Note 1. The charge pipes are disconnected for first startup 2. MAF deleted (but doesnt have to be) 3. Calibrated MAP, Calibrated TPS, ECT and IAT both read correctly (i believe) 4. Ive got fuel, the pump primes everytime the key is flipped forward (regardless if i disable fuel in the Link Ecu) 5. When i crank the car, every single time the ecu disconnects from the laptop. i cant seem to figure it out. i was under the impression the PNP OBD1 Link ecu setup should be able to fire right up. this is the very first time ive ever ran a fully standalone ecu. any advice for a first time user, or first time start up would be greatly appreciated, i am so close to starting this thing up! please help! <3 ?.