Tom H

Can confirm 12v Const is required.

Cool. I will add 12V const to pin 93 and see how I go. All other points are as instructed. I assumed it didn't need it based on links pinout in the JZX90 manual. Thanks Guys

I did have the diode in, but I took it out last night on Adams comment about it not being needed. The car switches on and off on the key just fine without it as Adam stated. I can see the hold trying to latch in PClink but cant.

Hi Adam, I have a JZX90 plug in, I purchased when first released and am now integrating it into the car. It has been updated to the latest software version. I have the hold / power relay wired as above (The 1J is actually in an RX7 but uses factory Toyota engine loom etc). Note - "Ign switch" should actually be pin 85 (C86 pin 9) not pin 14 as above. The ECU powers up as expected and I can get online with PC Link. When the key is turned off the Physical output (Injector 8) drops out and the ECU turns off. I can see in the software as the ECU dies the ECU Hold power trying to activate. I currently have the ECU hold configured the same as the G4x jz90 base map. The only power I have to the ECU is +B +B1 on pin 99/100 (C86 pin 22/23). Based on wiring information I think this is correct. The Link G4x appears not to use Pin 93 (C86 14) +12v constant which the factory Toyota ecu would have used. Any idea why "inj 8 - ECU hold power" drops out as soon as the key is switched off? Thanks Tom

Hi there, just bringing an old thread back to life. I have recently installed a G4x PNP into a 1999 Altezza but have used a traditional fuel map. The fuel gauge reads full all of the time, something I didn't notice at the time of tuning. Reading the above thread, the issue is likely to be the mapping, which I will need to change to modeled/VE? Or has there been some allowance for different tuning strategies since the last post in 2020? There could be other issues as well. The car now has a 2JZ and has been converted to have a return fuel system. Possibly there is a mechanical issue as well. I haven't got access to the car at the moment so I can't check further. Any help appreciated. Tom

Is this a concern the way this is wired? Is pin 7 on the A loom intended for triggers and triggers only, or are any grounds for this ok to use? I'm assuming fine, although not typical. The way its shielded (if its shielded) I cant confirm as I haven't had the loom apart at this stage.

Have included the last map I have of the car. Firmware 5.6.7... Initial testing was on a Storm and the owner has since changed to a Xtreme purchased recently for a different project, software was also updated. The swap was after doing a pin to pin check of the wiring for the triggers and only noticed the ground pin positioning mentioned above. no other circuits were pinned out. Ok cool, makes sense. I will see what I can get done soon. Thanks for your support. 211222 Mustang v1.pclr

Thanks for the reply Adam, firmware is updated to the latest available in the + range. ignition is individual coils on plugs but controlled from 2 x igniter packs, each doing 4 coils. I have tried to log and watch the scope during cranking. It really struggles to log anything most of the time...like the signals are not there when the ECU has been on for a while. I will have another attempt when I'm out there again. It makes it slightly harder to log because the car has a push button start that times out the cranking signal after a few seconds. Cheers, Tom

Hi guys, I have been working with a car that was wired by a reputable person, in the motorsport industry and has start and run without fluids. Since then it has done a few weird things which I would like clarification if possible. The car is not in my possession but its owner can test things as required. The car will start and run when the ECU appears to be "cold". This is a new motor/build the car will get shut off after about 5 minutes running or even less. After this initial start or series of initial starts the car will not start again and sounds absolutely flat, like no spark or fuel. During cranking when it wont start, there is no sign of the triggers being active within the runtime values screen. On the scope provided with the software there is no sign of the triggers most of the time, when its not starting. The motor is a v8 Ford 331cu and has an AEM cam/crank 24 & 1 trigger wheels in place of a conventional dizzy. When the ECU is first turned on (cold) and the AEM trigger wheel removed from the engine you can clearly see the triggers working form the Link software and hear the injectors trying to pulse. If put back together at this stage there is a high chance the engine will start. Once started the triggers are ON and active and fine, although the car may die at some stage for a few reasons. The owner has switched ECUs, after initially thinking it was the AEM cam/crank sensor and the same thing appears to happen (at least the not starting part). Some questions: 1. I'm stumped how the car will seem to run when the ecu is "cold" first powered up and not when its warm. ECU states 35ish degrees max. 2. The AEM wiring diagram calls for 12V feed for the sensors but it has been wired to pin 6 (8v+) from the ECU. I did try connecting to 12V but made no difference. I accept this as ok but still raise the question. these appear to be hall effect sensors so arming voltages etc shouldn't be an issue? 3. If I use a timing test light on the engine, while cranking and with out the Triggers being displayed as active within the software I will still get a pulse generated and the light will flash. Should I accept this? I would have thought not? The light could be random, as I couldn't actually time it like this. I can vouch that the car is in time though, as checked when running. 4. I notice the wiring for the cam and crank triggers has the sensor ground (0v) going back to the B loom on pin 22 I think (green). typically these go back to pin 7 on the A loom, although they appear to be internally connected in the ECU so should be a problem? 8v+ to the sensors as discussed above. Any help appreciated. I am struggling with the fact it runs some times and not others. I'm willing to accept noise or even wiring to make something not run at all or run poorly but in this instance we have a situation were it will start and run fine some times, but not all the time. 211217 Mustang v8. 1.1pclr.pclr

Thanks Adam, I did plug the ECU in last night and then plugged each sensor in one by one and monitored for faults. After plugging every sensor in the +5V remained constant on the run time screen. I didn't start the car, so I cant confirm the issue has "gone". Ill run the car tonight to see if I can replicate the fault. Then work out options I guess. Edit: I have since contact cleaned every sensor and plug, remade wire insulation in some areas, and changed the wiring on the innovate. Took the car for a brief drive and no faults occurred. Sounds promising although this is what had happened previously. Fingers crossed. Thanks.

Thanks for the reply Adam. since writing this about 8 hours ago I did pull the ECU from the car and bench tested it. to do this I connected the 1 x 14v feed, 2 x Grounds on pin 25/34. I also tapped off the 2 sensor grounds pin 7/24 and the +5 out so I could test. every thing else is disconnected. On initial power up and inspection the run time from PC link showed exactly the same as what I had seen in the car. 0-5V fluctuation as well as the intake and coolant temp going all over the place. I went to test the actual +5v output with a multimeter and the meter showed 5v. I then checked the run time again and it showed the same as what I had tested. so it appears the ECU is good. My only issue is why did the fault continue on initial power up and then come right. Does the +5 need a load to check against first before it will show the correct voltage? based on your statement above this shouldn't be the case? another question, How much load can the sensor ground wiring take? I have just noticed that my Innovate grounds through this. this was intentional at the time but probably not ideal is it will be drawing a bit of current I would imagine. its been connected like this for years. Thanks

Hi, I have a link Storm ECU and its been in the car for around 4 years, purchased 5 years ago. The configuration hasn't changed until an E throttle was added about 2 months ago. After the conversion the car still ran fine until now. The car started faulting error 74 which initially could be reset from the ECU. its now solid and cant be removed. I have unplugged every sensor off the engine and the fault remains, along with the other AN faults since sensors are open (disconnected). with all sensors plugged in and/or unplugged the +5v from the ecu reads about 1.4-2.5V on a multimeter and the runtime screen on the PC link software shows a fluctuation between 0-5v about every second. My next step is to remove the ECU from the car and bench test, just to rule out external wiring concerns. I will try do this in the next 24 hours. On the assumption that the fault (5v swing)will remain what are my next options? return ECU for Link gurus to fault find? From the above, what is the maximum load the +5v and sensor ground can take? There are 2x +5 and 2x sensor grounds from memory on the Storm but I cant remember how the devices connected to them were shared in my build. ie, no idea on loading or if sharing the loading is a concern, assuming they are common within the ecu. If excessive load was an issue would the ECU do what I am seeing or would it just fault and shut down or could the +5v Tracks, or the sensor GND tracks or components fail. on the circuit is TPS x 2 APS x 2 Oil and Fuel pressure Innovate AFR Any help appreciated.. 201212 fault evo x Evo tune E Throttle.pclr