Turbo.Tim
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Posts posted by Turbo.Tim
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It looks like the adjustable cam gear skipped on me for both the exhaust and intake.
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Thanks everyone. I wanted to ensure it was not something mechanical before I invest money to rebuild it just to run into the same issue.
Adam do you have a starting point for a timing map for a 4g64? .5 timing seems extremely low. Is yours stock bottom?
I will get the knock configured before starting tuning again. I mistakenly thought he was going to tune that first. I told him the knock was disabled and needed tuning.
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AFR did not drop and car did not appear to lean out. I do have an external aeromotive FPR. I was going to install a FP guage and log it but didnt have time before the dyno. I was hoping to have it done before the first track day. We were only around 80% duty cycle. I could probably use a bigger pump.
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27 minutes ago, k4nnon said:
Hey guys just to chyme in on this. Built many evos and first off we would always recommend oem plugs and heat ranges. Oem 8 ngk plug number is BPR7EIX and 9 number is ILFR7H. Most common best gap that we used was .022 for both and usually the 9 plugs are already set there. Stock heat range 7 is good to 600wheel with good 93 gas and a good tune. Anything past 600wheel you should be running e85 or another race fuel type which the stock heat range 7 works great for also. My personal 9 has done 790wheel mustang and never had any issues with oem plugs.. With all that said i cant tell how many evos we have had in through our shop that were fixed by removing the colder plugs that were in them and switching them back to oem plugs. I know this isnt the case for everyone but this is what we have found worked the best.
As for your exact situation, sometimes theres no way of telling. It could have been a fully built engine with really great parts but then it ultimately relies on how well the parts were put together. Sometimes it only takes one loose built to be the factor. Not saying that was the issue but there is almost no way of telling for sure with a major failure.
Iv seen plugs look like that after removing from a failed engine that had a failed head gasket, coolant was getting into the cylinder of the damaged plugs, not to say the plug didnt melt first and then the gasket went. Usually if spark is blowing out you feel it on the dyno and if it doesnt ignite, the cylinder stays wet with fuel and wont melt a plug that easily. could be any number of issues. Might have to tear the whole engine apart to find out what may have caused it. If you do figure it out post up so we can see what the cause was. best of luck!
Thanks for the response. The motor was built by Magnus. Marco fully assembled and timed the motor personally. This was a 4g64 block with a 4g64 head gasket and timing belt.
Head Magnus 4G63 Cam Gears Manley Stainless Intake/Exhaust Valves Kiggly Racing springs Kelford 272 Cams Kiggly HLA Oil Pressure Regulator Magnus 4g63 Pistons Manley Turbo Tuff 156 mm Rods Magnus 92 mm crank Magnus Head Studs ARP Main Studs HKS head gasket Balance shaft elimination kit I didnt film the one that let go but this was the run before it. I am planning to pull the head to get an idea of the damage. Hopefully the head is ok and the block just needs a bot of clean up. No windows this time.
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This was a fully built motor with forged internals running on pump gas. The car made 489 on a dynojet. On the run prior to this one of the couplers blew off. Not sure if could cause it to lean out.
I was using NGK BRP8ES plugs gapped at .026 on stock coils. Could I have had spark blow out from not tight enough gap?
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2003 Mitsubishi Evo 8. 2.2 stroker motor with only 1000 km on the motor. ID 1000, 255 pump, fp red.
Took it to the dyno and the motor let go and there is no compression in 3/4. One of the pictures are the top of the piston in 4.
I am logging AFR but it is off by .2. So 11.6 was 11.4 on my guage.
Is there any way to determine what might have happened?
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Sorry looking for clarification. I have an 8 and I am trying to configure knock with the oem sensor. Should it be 13kHz or 6kHz? According to the help file Evo 6 and on is 13. I assume Mitsubishi 4g63 aftermarket is with a donut style bosch sensor similar to an x?
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Thanks Adam. You are a wizard. It only wanted 2% throttle for idle but it is no longer hunting. I assume i will have to play with cold start later.
I have turned on ignition idle and turned it to a 2d table as per the help file. Does this look better? I still have not driven it yet. I will get a log once i have the opportunity to take it out.
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i started up the car today and I have an isolating idle. This was happening occasionally previously. I assumed it was a bad idle control valve which is what motivated me to do the DBW conversion. It did not happen all the time. Maybe 1 in 10 drives. But it would not go away after warm up.
What am i missing?
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Sorry Adam. I have made the change you recommended enabled all logging and uploaded another map. Is this a good starting point? Is it safe to drive?.
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Hello, I am trying to set up Drive by wire on my Evo 8. I have attached a log along with the map. I am not sure it is configured correctly. While testing it will follow the AP input then it just starts flapping open and closed really quickly and erratic.
I am using Bosch throttle body with Evo x pedal. As soon as I add the gain the TB starts to make a humming/buzzing sound. I am not sure if that is normal or i have some of the wires crossed.
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Thank you. I Have the Throttle body installed and its working proper. I was able to calibrate it successfully
I ran into an interesting problem with the pedal.
On the actual plug they have white/green as Pin 6 and Black/yellow as pin 1. So it says 6-1 from left to right on the plug but the service manual has them labelled in the opposite direction.
From the service manual. Am i reading it wrong? Or is it somehow stamped wrong on the plug?
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Adam,
I have wired it all up using the provided e-throttle lume and removed the AFR guage to keep it consistent for now.
I am confused on this part:
E-Throttle Relay - Ground side of a isolating relay that disconnects power to the Aux 9/10 power supply pin - Connect to any available Auxiliary Output, Aux -Ign or Aux -Inj channel. Do not assign this to a Virtual Aux channel.Also I can not find Aux 10.
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Hello,
I have a 2003 Evo 8 with Link ECU g4+ with DBW. I am going to convert the car to DBW and just need some clarification on the wiring. I have already used Volt 10 for my AFR gauge so I am assuming i will have to move that somewhere? Or is there a spare wire somewhere that I can use? I used to have my wideband in the rear o2 with on open source but it does not look to be available.
From the diagram I saw in the help file it looks like you recommend just using a chassis ground? Why would I not just wire it into the ECU ground? I assume the power will just get spiced together for the TB and Pedal?
So using the lume provided I assume I would wire it like this?
Ground
? or chassis?
Green
+5V
Power
Red
Aux 9
E-Throttle +
Grey
Aux 10
E-Throttle -
Brown
Volt 6
TPS main
White
Volt 7
TPS Sub
Blue
Volt 9
FPS MAIN
Yellow
Volt 10
Currently AFR
Orange
I have an Evo x pedal and a Bosch 74 mm TB.
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Haltech confirmed this used to be available and someone got removed. They will fix it in the next update. For now they manually added it on my. Thanks Adam
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I was trying to follow this post and I am not able to change the output.
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I have the Haltech IC7 and as far as I can tell everything else is working. But unfortunately no matter what I try, the Haltech Dash will only read in Lambda. I am able to log the ecu in both Lambda and AFR from PCLink. I have been going through the config files all day with no reasonable answer as to why.
2003 Evo 8.
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Thanks for the quick response. Other than the map limits, is there anywhere else that I need to keep this in mind for? It scared the crap out of me
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I have an evo 8 with the Link plug and play (E-throttle) ecu. I have the car started and did most of the cruise tuning. Yesterday I started to get into boost and around 15 psi the car completely cut out.
After reviewing the log I can see that the MAP was reading 30.2 psi even though the MPG was reading 15.8. My Fuel table is set to MPG so luckily that is all in line but I assume the boost cut is set to map.
Why would these be reading different? I have tried to recalibrate the map sensor. Map attached.
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For anyone that is having issues with this I was able to sort it out on my Evo 8. The haltech was expecting the signal from the rear left wheel speed sensor on Link ECU's.
It looks like the default is set to LF wheel speed. I switched this function to LR and now my odometer and trip works.
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That seems excessively high. How will I get any resolution? I assume i will be in the 150 range at wot? I was hoping there was a global multiplier to bring that down but if 60-80 is acceptable than that would explain why i was still lean at 50.
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I am in the process of starting my Evo 8 for the first time. I have installed a 2.2 LR (4g64 with 92 mm crank).
It would have been awesome if you posted in here what you did to help. I was able to get the car started in traditional mode and ran it for a bit. I tried switching to modelled and it was really lean. I can not seem to find a similar multiplier to get it in line so I am clearly off on something.
Deadtime4.108 3.354 2.599 2.145 1.691 1.468 1.245 1.111 0.977 0.881
Engine Capacity
2209
Base fuel pressure is stock (43.5) I have adjustable FPR. any benefit in raising this before i get too far into tuning?
Flow rate
1000
Not sure why it went so lean.
Evo 8 grenades on the dyno
in G4+
Posted
Thanks Adam. I went back and looked at the pictures from when I installed the car and the cam gears look like they were adjusted as stated above. So I don't suspect they shifted. So I am back to probably too much timing at peak torque. I'm going to send out my injectors to ensure that they are flowing correctly because I find it odd that only spark plug 4 melted