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ytubit

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Posts posted by ytubit

  1. 5 hours ago, Adamw said:

    Yeah I have used both the turbosmart one and OEM ones.  Both are significantly slower than pneumatic so control is poor.  I would only use the turbosmart for something like a promod where you have a lot of turbine inertia (so dont need real fast response) and need to do some unusual control strategy at staging or launch that cant be done with pnuematic.  The OEM type electronic gates we used at my last job for a category of identical F4 single seaters, in this case we went electronic to reduce risk of the teams cheating.  We had to do all sorts of software tricks (Motec M1's) such as auto recalibrate the position sensors at every start up and software prediction of boost rate of rise etc to get them to work acceptably but even then boost control was not as good or repeatable as the conventional pneumatic system.

    I believe Turbosmart now have a black box to allow control from a conventional ECU PWM type boost signal, but I would only go that route for very specific applications.  

    thanks for the insight Adam, 

    the vehicle i’m wanting to use it on is a drag radial car. these setups typically require low boost (5-7) on launch and then ramp in 30+ over about a second. 
    co2 based dome pressure target works well in these situations but indont want a stand-alone boost controller to do this. vehicle has currently got a link thunder which works well for everything else i need it to do  

    i was hoping the egate might be a solution, but maybe not if they suffer like you’ve said. 

    Any idea when link are going to do what every other ecu manufacturer does and give us a push pull type boost control?

    cheers

  2. hi @Adamw, when you say they have some issues, are you referring to all e-gates or just the oem ones? The turbosmart egate works pretty well i’ve been told. Have you had any experience with the turbosmart ones? 

    As link seems reluctant to give us a way to have push/pull type boost control i had intended to use an egate instead but alas link doesn’t support these either?

  3. Hi, I see there is a clutch/tc slip channel able to be logged but where would i go to set this channel up?

    I assume i would have to put gear ratios in so ecu can work out slip from engine rpm vs output shaft speed?

    Ant help would be appreciated

    Link thunder ecu with current firmware

     

    Cory

  4. 3 hours ago, Adamw said:

    That suggests the aux is working then.  Test(ON) is the same as having 100%DC in your GP PWM table.  Have you got the activation conditions set up and the aux status runtime shows "On"?

    doh!!

    I had switch condition set to ignition and somehow entered 2 instead of 1 in so it wasn’t activated.  
    I had checked the runtime value earlier and it was on so I tripped myself up along the way somehow. 

    Working now, thanks heaps for your help @Adamw 

    FYI, I didn’t need the RC filter to work on this early commodore. Works fine without it but wouldn’t work with it at all, which I find a little confusing.  I assume I need to remove the pull-up and just run the r-c combo but it’s working good so won’t bother. 
     

    Thanks again. 

  5. Hi,

    been trying to use this method to drive some stock analogue temp/oil pressure gauges in an old commodore. 
     

    I’ve been trying for a couple days and cannot for the life of me get the results mentioned above. 
    hooked up exactly as above all I can get out of the aux output is a constant 6.5v when pull-up hooked to 5v or constant 12v when pull-up is to 12v. 
     

    changing frequency and duty cycle does nothing. 
     

    any idea ideas. I even hooked up on the bench with no gauge and same results. The pwm output doesn’t seem to do anything. 
     

    On 4/12/2018 at 9:04 PM, Adamw said:

    Crap I just noticed a mistake in my drawing sorry.  The pull-up should have been on the other side of the 1K.

    DeuDb26.png

    Hooked up as per @Adamw 

    ecu aux is aux 1 on a thunder ecu, set to gp pwm tried constant frequency of 10-4000 with no change in output voltage. I have the cap going polarity to ground. 

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