Icedmunkie
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Posts posted by Icedmunkie
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I have it switching correctly now but it's still not activating the solenoid.
Resistance when set at 2k on a multimeter is showing .040
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14 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Why doe the solenoid require a switched positive? Does it only have a single wire and the other side of the coil is grounded through the body?
What ecu do you have?
It doesn't need to have a switch positive but it does need an earth. It has two wires, when wired up as you suggested in the above diagram nothing happens. Whereas if I give it either a permanent earth and switched live or permanent live and switched earth it operates. I hope that makes sense.
I am running a g4+ storm.
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I've bench tested one solenoid I have which does work like this but this just keeps the Vic's on.
Whereas the other solenoid I have requires an earth and then a live feed to active and does what is required. Is there a way to get this one to work at a set rpm?
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Sorry to bring this topic back up again as the process seems very simple, however on my G4+. I can't seem to get it to work.
If I use a power probe with the car running I can get the solenoid and vac elements to work correctly however, if I wire this up to Aux 3 or Aux 5. The live wire earth's out until I disconnect the earth wire off the solenoid where the feed from the aux wire goes back to live. Either way nothing happens. Any ideas?
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Probably something really simple but I am getting digital input 1 showing as active but off. However the input is not actually wired to anything. It has no affect on anything. More curious as to why it might be showing the above.
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Just to let you know the problem is resolved and the vehicle is not running.
Thank you for your help
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1 hour ago, Adamw said:
You originally said it had a 36-2 trigger wheel, but your map is still set to MX5 which only has 2 teeth on the crank.
So your trigger setup should be something like below. If it still has the 3 teeth on the cam and you want to run direct spark then you will need to grind off two teeth (so it only has a single tooth left on cam). Or you can wire coils in wasted spark configuration and set sync mode to none, then you wont use the cam sensor.
Thinking about this further, If I returned the crank wheel from 36-2 to the stock wheel, I could run a stock MX5 basemap which would be simpler? We replaced the stock though as whilst we were getting a good scope pattern we were not getting fuel or spark but when requested to fire as a test both would work. I am guessing this could be down to the fact that prior to going COP, the MX5 ran a wasted spark system.
I know/think that elimination of the cam sensor would mean having to change the injection mode away from sequential to multipoint group (I think that would be the appropriate setting) but by grinding the two teeth of the cam wheel will this have any effect or can I still run the injection mode as sequential?
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13 minutes ago, Adamw said:
You originally said it had a 36-2 trigger wheel, but your map is still set to MX5 which only has 2 teeth on the crank.
So your trigger setup should be something like below. If it still has the 3 teeth on the cam and you want to run direct spark then you will need to grind off two teeth (so it only has a single tooth left on cam). Or you can wire coils in wasted spark configuration and set sync mode to none, then you wont use the cam sensor.
Brilliant, I kept it as MX5 due to being previously told to leave it, but will change.
As I am running coil on plug due to limited space, I think I will need to grind the cam down to one tooth but will look at running it with a wasted spark system.
I will have a play and see what works best, out of the options given. -
30 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Can you attach a copy of the tune as well. From the short triggerscope capture it suggests you have some trigger settings wrong.
Attached
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A bit of a delay but some progress has been made:
1) Spark is present
2) Fuel is present
3) Crank Sensor is getting readings
4) Wiring replaced including plug for cam sensor
5) Cam sensor is newHowever, It its trying to start but doesn't, just checking to see if something is still amiss with sensors or settings within the ecu.
I have attached a log.
Chris
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3 hours ago, Electredge said:
they you have a sensor problem, actual wiring problem, or the trigger teeth are broken or too far away
I will do some further investigation. At least now I am getting spark and the fuel pump is running when cranking which is wasn't doing before. Once I have looked into this further I will report back. Thanks for your help so far!
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7 minutes ago, Electredge said:
looking from the back of the connector, how do you have it pinned?
Left to right
Red/White - Grey/Blue - Black/Blue for second set of scopesRed/White - Black/Blue - Grey/ Blue for first set of scopes
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1 minute ago, Adamw said:
The 2nd two are titled something like "wires swapped", so it likely has battery voltage going direct into the trigger input.
The battery voltage has not been touched. The only two that got swapped were the trigger and ground, if that is any help.
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I have checked the settings and ran some trigger scopes.
I managed to get spark on the last two but the timing isn't right as after the engine was not cranked, spark continued for a second or two at mostAttached are todays scopes with the settings given above.
Trigger Scope Log 2021-04-6 1;50;52 pm.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-04-6 1;53;11 pm trigger 2 rising edge.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-04-6 2;08;40 pm wires swapped on cam sensor with falling edge - engine has spark.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-04-6 2;12;02 pm wires swapped on cam sensor with rising edge - Engine has spark spark.llg
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On 4/1/2021 at 8:11 PM, Adamw said:
You originally said you can’t see anything on the scope. So you first need to fix the wiring so you have valid signals showing on the scope before you start messing with settings or cutting teeth off. As Vaughan already said, this pattern you have will quite likely work with one of the Toyota modes without modifying anything, but we need to see a scope to confirm positioning of the teeth.
I have got the scope to read signals now and have attached a few samples for you.
I changed the trigger and if the sensor was a optical/hall each time for the crank but not the cam. I am still not getting any spark or injectors working on cranking.Also, for some reason Digital input 1 is showing as off but active, however it appears that this is not connected to anything when I locate the pin on the ecu. Not sure what is going on here. I spoke to my friend who did the majority of the wiring and he was informed to swap the polarity of the crank sensor by someone at Link incase this gives any strange scope readings (however I am not sure why he was told to do this)
Trigger Scope Log 2021-04-5 1;14;03 pm mazda MX5 - Reluctor.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-04-5 1;15;29 pm mazda MX5 optical-hall.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-04-5 1;16;58 pm 36-2 optical-hall.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-04-5 1;17;58 pm UZFE VVTi optical-hall.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-04-5 1;57;35 pm 1JZ VVTi - reluctor.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-04-5 2;00;00 pm 1JZ optical-hall - rising edge.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-04-5 2;00;00 pm 1JZ VVTi optical-hall - falling edge.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-04-5 12;44;45 pm - 36-2 trigger - Reluctor.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-04-5 12;47;57 pm -UZFE vvti Reluctor.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-04-5 12;56;47 pm UZFE.llg
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2 hours ago, Electredge said:
if the crank trigger wheel has been replaced by a 36-2 aftermarket wheel the 99-00 Miata non VVT uses 3 teeth on the cam and is not currently a supported pattern, however you can remove the valve cover and cut off 2 of the 3 teeth on the cam gear fairly easily then you can make it work without any issues.
@AdamwThis is the trigger setup I'm gonna get you the scope for, tons and tons of the existing miata's have already swapped out the OEM 4 tooth crank wheel for the 36-2.
Hope that helps
Jon
Jon
This make sense, then would I just use the multitooth missing Trigger 1 pattern and then Trigger 2 as optical/hall with a falling edge or would I select the Mazda MX5 OB2 or something completely different?
Thanks
Chris
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7 minutes ago, Vaughan said:
with the trigger pattern I specified and with trigger 2 set to off it'll only sync in the correct spot half of the times you try and start it. if it's waste spark and group injection this is fine but if it is direct spark it will only run half of the times you try to start it. You will also need to do the typical trigger calibration process to set the offset.
Looking through similar trigger patterns Toyota 1JZ VVTi mode might work as it has the same crank pattern and a similar cam pattern.
I will have a try tomorrow and let you if any of thise suggestions work.
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24 minutes ago, Adamw said:
What is the sensor from? Do you have a part number of something?
I am pretty sure from memory it's one like this, probably bought from the link below. Will have a closer look tomorrow.
https://www.mx5parts.co.uk/crankshaft-position-sensor-aftermarket-mk2-25-p-4362.html
Will update the trigger settings tomorrow and see what happens.
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NB1 with no VVT
It is a 36-2 not a 32-2 on the crank, that was typing mistake.
I cant see a cam sync signal. However noticed that trigger 2 does have something regarding vvt, so potenially something wrong there?
3 wire sensor -
Hello,
This has probably been done to death but I can't quite find the right answer.
I have a 1.8 MX5 engine in a Vauxhall Firenza. I can get the coil packs (as it's converted to coil on plug) to fire on demand and the injectors to fire on demand but not when cranking the engine.
The original pickup is now replaced with a 32-2 trigger wheel but nothing registers on the scope.
I've set up the trigger to reflect this but nothing seems to work. Have I overlooked a setting somewhere? I get the feeling it's probably some very simple but not sure what.
Any advice would be helpful.
RPM Based switch
in G4+
Posted
It's working now, as long as I bypass the wiring from the vehicle and use test leads. So something is now up with the wiring.
What does the switch condition set at 0.24 change if the value is changed?