greddy32

It did stay connected but only 1 time for some reason. I've tried a couple times since and the ecu always disconnects

45 drops from 12.5 to 7.73 while cranking

Off topic but which was is the correct way to wire a radiator fan? 30 batt 87 fan 85 ecu 86 switched 12v Or 30 batt 87 fan 85 switched 12v 86 ecu

Okay my son is asleep for the night so I won't be able to test any cranking until tomorrow. To your example, my fuel pump is getting 12v triggered from the trunk, it's reloomed but I'm assuming it's the circuit you're referring to. Where would I grab 12v from thats not on the same ignition switch?

So I'll retest test with 45 and ground and let you know what it says.. if it's low whats the solution? A new ignition barrel? Also would running all ecu grounds directly to a batt(-) stud help at all?

What should voltage be on 45 whioe cranking? And am I testing it correctly?

It doesn't show any voltage on 45 while cranking or ever for that matter. 1 lead on 49 the other on 45 while testing

Hey Adam, my g4+ is from 2019 do you think that it's possible my mosfet is bad? I was reading a thread between you or Simon and godzillamf, he seemed to be having the same issue that he solved by running a relay to pin 16.

okay thank you

so from the header should i run each ground to its own location or can i use a batt neg. stud i have on the firewall?

Pin 16 was left in the header I used a piece of welding wire to poke through the back of the header and touch the terminal, from there I ran a jumper from chassis to pin 16, this left the ecu on even when the car was off when I removed the jumper the ecu powered down. The harness has had unused connectors removed i.e. no power steering, no abs, no ac, no heater No wipers, no defrost it's bare bones essentially. The car was just on a rotisserie for the past year too.. can you see much from the logs? Or scope?

so sorta strange... the car starts now... ill attach everything i collected the car is just idling on my lift with a few revs. i also grounded pin 16 and got 1 log of it cranking then that didnt work anymore for some reason, but the car runs both with with pin 16 grounded and not grounded. the ecu also looses connection both ways too, ill tripple check that in like 30 min to confirm. also with pin 16 grounded when i turn the car off the ecu starys on im assuming this is normal if pin 16 in grounded? Trigger Scope Log 2024-04-23 1;58;17 pm crank no start.llg Trigger Scope Log 2024-04-23 2;15;45 pm 2.llg random start.llg running 2.llg running.llg

Hey Vaughn this is what I came up with 49 grounded to frame key on is 13v then drops to 9.48 while cranking 49 to 10 cranking is 8.75 49 to 20 8.87 49 to 107 8.72 49 to 108 8.68 49 to 116 8.63

Hey Vaughn, the wifey got a flat tonight I'll have to get with you tomorrow if you're available.

Hey Vaughn are you available in about 1.5 hours? Gonna head out to the garage when the baby wakes up

okay sounds good, ill have to do this tomorrow afternoon ill report back. thank you!

the car needs to be cranking to test this im assuming? or just the on position?

so check 45 for power while cranking? if it drops low whats the next step? godzillamf had a similar problem a few years ago, should i try grounding pin 16?

i cant at the moment its too late and my kid is asleep. i tried to catch a log earlier of it cranking but while i crank it seems to stop any activity on my laptop... like the ecu disconnects while cranking or something... should i start a log, crank it, stop the log, save and send? im afraid ill be sending an empty log also when i bring up the trigger scope screen and start cranking then press start on the scope it says there isnt any connection to my ecu

hey guys so im having an issue starting my car. its been down for about a year getting a full rotisserie resto. the only thing ive changed is the hot side, i went from single gtx3582 back to twins.. the car ran totally fine before the restoration and i figured it would at last fire up seeing how ive only changed turbos (clearly i was wrong)... the car cranks and "chugs" a little while cranking oh and the surprise ear piercing backfire from time to time, but will not show signs of life . ive ran tests on the coils and injectors and they fire when commanded to, ive hooked a ht lead on cyl 1 and i def have spark. my assumption is, the problem is timing based.... im half dumb though so idk lol. ill attach the tune file that im trying to use from before my car when under the knife... and if someone can walk me through logging a trigger scope that would be awesome, ive tried but the prompt that pops up says shows no ecu connection. thank you in advance.... ill be over here pulling my hair out r32 gtr rb26 single throttle body oem rebuilt twins greddy suction kit greddy 264 cams (unknown specs) g4+ e85 twin walbro 450 in tank -8 feed -8 return radium fpr with built in pulse damper 1300 id inj. gm flex fuel sensor r35 coils stock cam angle sensor link can lambda link 3 port boost solenoid internal map sensor Iacv and everything under the plenum has been removed Wallewein UMS Dyno 2.pclr

adam, ive ordered the ecu masters egt to can device. with this using the second leg of the tee, ill then need the terminating resistor near this device correct?

thanks guys! I just got off work, did a little research and just found what Adam referred to. ill ditch the tee and run the lambda by itself.

I recently purchased the jst to can and can splitter/tee for my g4+ pnpgtr ecu im wondering if I need to add a resistor or does the pnp harness I purchased have one already. 1 leg on the tee is going to be used for a can lambda sensor the other leg I haven't decided on yet.

Sorry also forgot to mention its a single throttle body. Not necessarily a problem but just double checking everything is in order... From time to time after pushing the clutch in and coming to a stop my tp stay around 1-2%... this may be a throttle body issue but wanted to double check my map to rule that out.

i just swapped laptops let me know if this works GTR DASH.pclr