JordanB

Degaussed and it made the waveform super clean. Super clean showed more obviously than ever that this was a physical movement issue. Or maybe it's just been getting worse. New sensor now has a mark where trigger wheel kissed it. Diving into pan finds plenty of bearing material. Curious to me that this level of damage didn't show up with a noise or oil pressure loss. I'm sure it was about to come. So never had a trigger issue it turns out! Still with this found and all belts off and trying to move crank against seals it's not clear I can move it. Atleast it's "resolved" haha.

Going to remove the crank pulley and degauss the teeth. Pretty much out of any other ideas.

Tried to scope the signal ground, other than the link pulling it up when it's on, and some general noise from the fuel pumps, there's nothing to show a problem for a signal measured in whole volts. Scoped the trigger signal and it matches the links scope. Also found a thread where something seemingly similar was happening, and they had luck changing trigger 2 to a hall sensor setting with pull-up off. Tried this with both rising and falling and it wouldn't start.

Tried a new wire, completely isolated the old one. No change. Spent some time trying to feel play in the crank, belts off etc, nothing. The put it back together with covers off and the sensor is further than I assumed from the trigger wheel. Ran it with trigger wheel visible and while it's hard to say it didn't move because the whole engine was moving, it ran true to itself. Is the trigger input to the ecu something that could be damaged or fail in a way that would cause any of this? If I had a space ecu I would have tried it long ago. Something that this car has always struggled with is (assumingly) alternator whine on the comms. Last event I even tried an isolated dc-dc converter to power the radio and isolated it from all other grounds and it still didn't help. I assumed it was a crap product. Before the engine issue there was a change in the background noise. I've tried testing with the alternator disconnected, the wideband disconnected, the dash and radio off, PS off, vacuum off. I'm going to get a scope and chase ground signals. What frequency would I be looking for to cause this interference? Does the car running better with polarity backwards support this idea?

Hi all, I've spend a lot of time on this, my tuner has tried to help remotely, and I've eliminated as many things as I can with new or back up items. Car is a track Celica with an ex midget 3sge engine running crank sensor from gen4 gte, and cam trigger from gen3 ge distributor. Wiring used Toyotas shielded wiring loom and plugs, and are then spliced into a short ecu loom with a soldered connection. Sheild wire and ground both run to ecu signal ground, ecu is grounded to chassis separately. Car has done several events, previously had the gen4 gte cam trigger 2 but swapped after that head took damage. Never had trigger issues previously. Car was running great, Dyno tuned, track tested, and even started a race recently, but quickly developed an issue and is still unresolved. It started to hesitate in mid range, but would get through it, and it wasn't all the time. Then the issue became more consistent, and in the end it would hardly run. During the issue I noticed the rpm would spike. Looking at logs it was seeing 15+krpm, and the cutting was the rpm limit kicking in. These are the symptoms we still have. Idles ok, revs to 4kish, then hits rpm limit due to sync errors. The car was using large coil near plugs and these were assumed to be causing interference. I swapped back to cop (no solution to race on gen3 head but ok to run engine). No change. We changed the crank sensor and the wiring with no change. I swapped the distributor and no change. I inverted the polarity on the crank sensor and it actually ran better, but would still get the error spam and limit issues at 7kprm. Changing the polarity of the distributor wouldn't let it run at all. At each step I tried all combinations of crank and cam sensors, big coils and leads or cop, and different polarity. Looking at triggers there was an amplitude variation across the cycles that didn't follow a 360 degree pattern but was greater than I thought was normal. I tried playing with trigger limits, first lower then higher, lower helped a tiny bit but even at 1.5v across the board it wouldn't rev well, higher had no change. Also filters. No change. At this point I assumed I might have 2 bad crank sensors. I got a new one from Toyota. No change. When swapping crank sensors I noticed the 2 old ones had a shine across the end where they had something hit the face. After running the new one I checked for this and there was nothing. But it didn't rev more than 4k or run for more than 15mins. I ran trigger scopes and with the new sensor the patterns of amplitude variation are much more consistent. These are attached. I took different rpm up to the point it has issues. The "issue" scope is me trying to push the engine past this rpm and it actively having many many sync errors and being held back by it's rpm limiter. Because the issue was now showing a 360 degree pattern I checked the crank timing pulley and all the teeth are there with no evidence of any damage. This had been off the car just before the race and had no issues at the time. So any help is greatly appreciated! Because the issue started slow and got to this end state it feels like electronics failure of some type to me, I'm also considering something like main bearings are worn and changing air gap on sensor? But there's no noise or play when off and not oiled so it's just grasping at straws. idle.llg 3k rpm.llg 2k rpm.llg Celica.pclr issue.llg

He said he had, that is the part though looking online but the only parts he could offer were the modern expansion type, at the time I took it into jaycar and RS and neither could match it up. And it was close but not quite the molex options I thought to investigate. Either way it's done and I soldered as a job on in house board manufacture for a few years so I'm confident in 4 simple connections. Edit: for context the car isn't using the factory loom anymore, and the ecu is being treated as a wire in that just fits the OEM connectors and ecu box. The engine is a high comp big cam rebuild of a caldina turbo engine, without the turbo. But all the nice things like cop and squirters baseline. I'm using the 3 temp inputs for ECT, Oil T, IAT And anvolt1-6 (didn't try to use 4 twice despite it being on the plug in board and part of the expansion loom) for Map, TPS, wideband, EGT, oil p, fuel p. Extra inputs might be a future thing for now, just looking into it. I would potentially like break pressure, and break vacuum since it's looking like I'm going to need pump assistance and if I could control the pump with the ecu it opens up a bunch of pump options and tuning options vs the kits with switches.

Hey guys, Sorry to bump an old thread Can i get the info that would allow me to add some more inputs to my pnp g4+? St185 model. Short on analog inputs specifically. Already using the 2 extra opened up on the expansion loom. Already had to desolder and add my own wiring to the ignition expansion as the board I had used some odd connector no one including link when contacted via my tuner could point me to. Thanks!