KennyJ
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Posts posted by KennyJ
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is there anything i can do to make it a little more modern ?
rb26 plugin ecu , responding to vipec software , not g4
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you have a trigger error around 4k , and a weird hole in the fuel map there to
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i would put the triggering voltage at about 0.4v below 500rpm
check settings for NZ wiring kit , those are the same
i always put the airgap a little tighter as described in the manuals because of the low signal while cranking -
those steppers are a pain , even if they work
i bypassed many of them , just block them and cut a groove in the rubber
use idle ignition or rotational idle as a solution if its not a road car
you can setup a virtual aux with ect temp >78°c as activation for example
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Are there some reliable numbers for this ?
Nissan CA18det running evo 4 topfeeds on a vipec RB26 ecu
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on itb's you always want to tune in alpha N indeed , why even try with map
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your log is only a few seconds long , also your vvt target has zero in top 100%tps row , is your vvt working ?
there is a big jump in your fuel map in the lower rpms -
cool build , thats looks like a z32 TT diff no ? massive unit
wata's are life , i understand the 4stud choice
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we use some eastern european standalone controllers for the dccd. in which you can alter settings on tps, 4 wheel speeds , steering angle etc. everything comes over canbus i believe. so to my understanding there's not gonna be much difference if you change only the engine ecu which emulates the standard canbus.
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i used stuff from these guys i believe
also in a 03 but an sti which had a box from a 2010 sti
does a 03 wrx has the dccd control in the car ? i would believe it doesnt , might be looking incoparating that to , dccd center diff without control drives pretty weird , unless you converted to visco center
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i only just noticed the map name is in dutch , if you would be unable to get this fixed i might help you out irl
i've seen quite some 2001-2012 subaru's with very very bad wiring , the quality of the wires and connectors is just not as good as gc8's etcthey corrode and break off at the connector
or it might be totally tune related , thats possible to
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tooth count shouldnt matter ,
i've seen those cherry sensors fail , all of those that failed had exterior damage too so no manufacturer to blaim
how much is the sensor gap ? al little tighter as per manual never hurt -
these are the deadtimes of modified bosch i use alot
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i run the boostdoc plates that come on top of the cams , run the restrictors as per prp advice , not tomei from the 90's
stock pump , 10w40
and my breathers are dry , not a drip of oil -
the tune included
log "working lambda" is another can lambda i plugged in , which worked instantly
log "lambda 2 now working" is the can lambda that didnt show up on the can before , but now works after plugging in the that other can lambda
wiring is a canjst cable plugged into a plugin ecu ,12v feed from battery with only a fuse
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to read a log we need the tune to
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its pretty annoying when on the dyno with the customer and then having to switch over to my aem lambda to get the job done
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not yet , i've tried it in many different cars , swapped around with known working can lambdas and the problem chases this unit
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i have an intermittent error on a can lambda , sometimes it works perfectly , sometimes its not found on the can.
i tried different sensor , tried seperate powerfeed
one time it worked for 10 minutes , then showed error 53 i believe it was , then dissapeared from the can.any tips on this ?
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as adam states above , i do this with rally subaru's all the time.
i go from B+ bolt to L , i dont add a lamp as you can set low voltage triggers on aim display on system voltageNOTE: i go from B+ to L as these cars have circuit breakers , it would drain the battery on normal cars who keep feeding tje alternator B+
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probably a back feeding issue
measure at the connector which aux keeps getting back fed , some R chassis its the aircon clutch for example
switching pins around to unused injector outputs solves this -
Can this be done ? on a G4X plugin to make some retro serial devices work (yasio factory ect gauge etc)
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sr's have that thermostat extra idle thing on the throttle body, which i most times remove.
engines with cams need some throttle opening most times- reset tps calibration when done
i usually give them just a little extra opening and temper them down with idle ignition control. to make them a little stronger on idle.
also the fact that it was hunting with idle control off means there are some weird things going on in the ignition and/or fuel map in those cell's
make a mixture map logging to check fueling , timing can be done visually in the map.
take care not to overlook heatsoak in the iat sensor
also sr's tend to have a few % difference at 80°C to 90°C ect- but that would cause hunting
overshooting lambda control or idle control can cause this to- but not in your case here -
depends a bit , mine doesnt really move on idle rpms , you can hear it do something but not much
when on 1500rpm its day and night difference.
stock oil pump , 10W40 , oil retrictors as per PRP latest, tomei 256/256
G4 with LinkCan Lambda
in Link G4
Posted
Can an old 4g plugin ecu communicate with a new Can Lambda ?
rb26 g4plugin