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smallthecat
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Posts posted by smallthecat
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+1 I'd definitely consider getting a link for my X if it were available, the reflash softwares UI and the time involved reflashing is a pain. Link has a much better ui, user friendly and mostly easy to understand. Would such a product be able to retain all of the factory ecu's features?
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16 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Yes trigger is fine. Voltage is a little borderline low but ecu appears to be happy.
Set your arming thresholds like below if not already.
Did you check the base timing yet?
Set at .2v and .5v already yeah.
Haven't been able to get it to start and the timing light I have won't work with a low signal unfortunately, it might be broken so I have ordered a new timing light. Changing the base timing around from -360° to 0° to +360° seems to have no effect on the stroke of the engine. As in, you'd expect one to be the exhaust stroke and it splutter or kick flames out the intake but nothing happens moving the timing offset. Thoughts on why that could be?
I've taken plugs out to let the cylinders dry out and it seemed pretty wet in there. Maybe once it dries out moving the timing will do something
Where is a good place to start for my base timing if the engine is setup to factory TDC settings?
Does injection timing need to move to align with the base timing once its set close and running? Injection is currently at 400btdc on the base map but if my base was -120° then would I bring that back 120° aswell?
3 minutes ago, smallthecat said:Set at .2v and .5v already yeah.
Haven't been able to get it to start and the timing light I have won't work with a low signal unfortunately, it might be broken so I have ordered a new timing light. Changing the base timing around from -360° to 0° to +360° seems to have no effect on the stroke of the engine. As in, you'd expect one to be the exhaust stroke and it splutter or kick flames out the intake but nothing happens moving the timing offset. Thoughts on why that could be?
I've taken plugs out to let the cylinders dry out and it seemed pretty wet in there. Maybe once it dries out moving the timing will do something
Where is a good place to start for my base timing if the engine is setup to factory TDC settings?
Does injection timing need to move to align with the base timing once its set close and running? Injection is currently at 400btdc on the base map but if my base was -120° then would I bring that back 120° aswell?
disregard injector timing question, there's a good explanation in the help menu.
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7 hours ago, smallthecat said:
this scope ok? trigger is always counting or saying tooth after sync. Can't wrap my head around it.
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13 hours ago, Adamw said:
If you havent set the base timing then you need to do that. The procedure is explained in the help file.
this scope ok? trigger is always counting or saying tooth after sync. Can't wrap my head around it.
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New log and trigger scopes. Still just won't start, did fire a couple times. Changed to 1800cc and 2000c but could smell fuel so guessing too rich. Think I logged all that as well, made changes during log. Any Ideas? Must be timing I think? Anyway to tell where I should be setting BTDC using the trigger scope?
PC Datalog - 2022-04-22 9;31;32 am.llgx TriggerScopeLog.llgx TriggerScopeLog2.llgx
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15 minutes ago, Adamw said:
The triggerscope shows nothing. Can you do another one, make sure you click the capture button when the engine is cranking or running, not before.
I dont see much else that would cause two cylinders to be missing. Do the ITB's look synced? If you pull #4 coil out and run it with an old spark plug fitted where you can see it, is there a spark?
You can also try increasing and decreasing the engine capacity setting which is an easy way to give it more or less fuel as a test to see if it is too lean or similar. Try it at say 2000cc to see if it makes any difference.
Yeah I'll shoot down and try get another scope, that's weird that scope has no info now I checked it before I uploaded it. I will also try increase capacity and see what happens.
ITB's are synced, haven't touch them since it was last running. WIll double check though.
I pulled coil 3 out and got spark on my chassis. Haven't tried 4 but assumed if 3 had spark then 4 also would.
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Start Up Tune V2.pclx TriggerScopeLog.llgx PC Datalog - 2022-04-17 4;53;59 pm.llgx
So I changed the Map sensor to a Honda sensor that works. Car starts, but only running on 2 cylinders. unplgging coil 3 and 4 to test them showed they weren't firing.
Tests through ecu to injectors and coils are fine all have a signal and work when tested to the correct cylinder. I've just changed the rear main seal as it went last start up, so ideally want to fix this issue before I start it again, gearbox out and in isn't fun. Compression tests on all 4 cylinders read between 200-220psi. Haven't done a leak down test as my compressor shat itself just as I was about to do it. Is there anything wrong with attached tune, triggers, log that stand out?
Cheers
9 minutes ago, smallthecat said:Start Up Tune V2.pclx 363.7 kB · 1 download TriggerScopeLog.llgx 18.17 kB · 1 download PC Datalog - 2022-04-17 4;53;59 pm.llgx 1.44 MB · 1 download
So I changed the Map sensor to a Honda sensor that works. Car starts, but only running on 2 cylinders. unplgging coil 3 and 4 to test them showed they weren't firing.
Tests through ecu to injectors and coils are fine all have a signal and work when tested to the correct cylinder. I've just changed the rear main seal as it went last start up, so ideally want to fix this issue before I start it again, gearbox out and in isn't fun. Compression tests on all 4 cylinders read between 200-220psi. Haven't done a leak down test as my compressor shat itself just as I was about to do it. Is there anything wrong with attached tune, triggers, log that stand out?
Cheers
So in firing order its firing on 1 and 3, 4 and 2 not firing.
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24 minutes ago, Adamw said:That really sounds like the pinout is wrong. Can you give us a photo of the map sensor and the loom/mating connector and tell us which wires are which.
1 - ground to ground out
2 - signal to an volt 2
3 - 5v to 5v+
Only info I have is this.
1 - e2 sensor ground
2 - pim?
3 - vc ?
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10 hours ago, Adamw said:
Then you have done something wrong with the MAP wiring. Pinout is wrong or you have 5V shorted to signal or something. You should have about 3.5-3.6V coming out of the MAP sensor at atmospheric pressure.
Unplug the sensor while watching PC Link, if the AN voltage drops to 0.0V when you unplug the sensor then that would indicate the pinout is wrong. If the voltage doesnt drop when you unplug the sensor then that would indicate there is a short somewhere.
Unplugging gives me a 0v reading. My tps also reads 4.95v on pc link. Is it an earthing issue? I'm confident my pinouts are correct. If I unplug and test the connector it reads 4.99v to the map sensor and the signal reads .03v unplugged. Both of earth's are to seperate earthing points on the block. And I have a solid earth to the oe chassis earth from block.
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2 hours ago, Adamw said:
Then you have done something wrong with the MAP wiring. Pinout is wrong or you have 5V shorted to signal or something. You should have about 3.5-3.6V coming out of the MAP sensor at atmospheric pressure.
Unplug the sensor while watching PC Link, if the AN voltage drops to 0.0V when you unplug the sensor then that would indicate the pinout is wrong. If the voltage doesnt drop when you unplug the sensor then that would indicate there is a short somewhere.
Roger. Probably the pinout. Will try that out later on and check pinout. Doesn't run very nicely with the map reading incorrectly. I used your 16v with 20v itb fuel table and ign table I found on another thread as it seemed like a close alternative for a startup as I had lost my previous tunes, I was having trouble with pc link acquiring a connection to the ecu so reinstalled it and during that troubleshooting process and lost my old data unfortunately.
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On 4/13/2022 at 8:59 AM, Adamw said:
Earlier in this thread you said the voltage on the MAP input was about 3.54V with the engine off - which would be about 100Kpa. To read 144kpa with the cal I gave it would have now have to be around 5.0V. So something has changed, have you changed any of the wiring?
Yes I re wired everything
with new connectors etc.
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12 minutes ago, essb00 said:
No, vacuum lines would not matter with engine not running as MAP & BAP are both reading atmospheric pressure.
What are the current readings of MAP & BAP while engine not running?Bap around 100, map around 150.
Last reading I got was BAP 98.6, Map 144.7. Set to the linear cal settings as above.
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25 minutes ago, essb00 said:
If the MAP reading is too far out from BAP, then it means your calibration table is incorrect.
With engine off, MAP & BAP should read +/- 5kPa from each other so you can calibrate.
Yes I realise that the calibration table is incorrect now, would this be because I've changed the vacuums? How would I recalibrate it using the linear table? Not 100% on how to set these up or recalibrate them at all. AdamW gave me the factory map sensor info above.
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On 11/22/2021 at 12:15 PM, Adamw said:
It looks to me like the MAP sensor has never been set up. The way it is now it would be getting 300% more fuel than it wants. It may have started once when everything was dry etc. Calibration info for those sensors is hard to find, but the settings below should be close enough. Also it doesnt look like the trigger offset has been adjusted so check that, clean the spark plugs, change MAP sensor settings and it shouldnt be far off running.
I've since deleted all other vacuums off the intake and my MAP reading is too far out to calibrate with the BAP. Is deleting the other lines going to effect the values in the linear cal table? I've got it running again but changed the values myself to bring them into range. It's idling and in general running roughly, coughing spluttering.
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On 11/22/2021 at 12:15 PM, Adamw said:
It looks to me like the MAP sensor has never been set up. The way it is now it would be getting 300% more fuel than it wants. It may have started once when everything was dry etc. Calibration info for those sensors is hard to find, but the settings below should be close enough. Also it doesnt look like the trigger offset has been adjusted so check that, clean the spark plugs, change MAP sensor settings and it shouldnt be far off running.
Hey Adam, just wondering if the resolution I'm getting on the map sensor I setup with these settings is correct? Seems erratic to me but I wouldn't know what to look for to be honest, I just thought it may be smoother
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You were bang on Adam thanks mate. I just don't understand how the timing offset changed -40 degrees when all I did was the bottom end bearings and put it back together. I was trying to find other reasons because i was certain the car was running fine befroehand with timing locked at 360
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Yeah I used your startup map as a starting point initially and been working forward from there.
Question, my starter motor was wired into a relay and had its own pin on my oe ecu/harness [STA], I've just wired that directly into an ignition source now bypassing the ecu, do you think that could be a potential cause of my problem?
Problem - I'm getting what sounds like igniton advance, pinking, >3000rpm at 30% to WoT. I can 20% throttle through RPM and no advance. I also had the engine upside for 5 days doing the bottom end, when I put it all back together it was doing this, was running sweet before hand. It obviously sounds like the cam switch solenoid being in that range, but I changed the starter wiring aswell. Prior I was using an MRP patch harness but it wasn't suitable as I had wired my car slightly differently to an oe 20v.
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Morning,
I just rewired my car as I had a patch harness which came with my ecu which wasn't suitable for how i had things setup. 20v blacktop engine
Everything is working fine apart from what I think maybe the VVT, I've got the solenoid wired to aux4 and configured for VVT control correctly within pclink. Triggers are also working correctly. Do I need to wire a digital input aswell for the VVT or what have I missed that could be causing my problem. Do i need to wire my spare cam position sensor wire to a digital input? From the CAS i've got the g2 to trigger 2, ne to trigger 1 but haven't wired the g1 into anywhere currently
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Sweet as will try that and see how I go. It definitely smells like its getting way too much fuel. Thought it may have been spark issue. What should my trigger offset be?
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Sorry I didn't pay attention to the firmware prior to updating, currently running 6.21.14. I did do a factory reset before the update.
OEM denso 5v map sensor, currently reading 3.54 volts.
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Hey,
I recently bought a atomX and CoP kit off MRP, after connecting everything and loading the base map Barry sent over it started first pop, but was in password protected mode. I got the unlock code and unlocked the ecu then updated the firmware, reloaded the base map and since haven't been able to start the car. I have tried resetting to factory and updating again. The map sensor is also reading a value of 300 since the update, prior to updating this was a normal reading. Any tips?
PC Link and Firmware 6.20 released
in G4x
Posted
downloaded new update software etc. tried multiple times to upgrade but same error. green bar sometimes makes it further across than other times. have battery charger connected to battery. power to ecu at 12.25v. tried legacy downgrading, no luck same issue. tried changing com port to 50 and was worse. no other com ports are in use. any other ideas?
events in device manager
Device FTDIBUS\VID_0403+PID_7069+5&9bd1446&0&1\0000 requires further installation.