r33lew

Yeah Yeah, so ive found that it is just a 2 wire sensor, one for sensor ground and one for DI, the bit im left with, is how will i configure this in the ECU? Thanks for your respons Adam

Im currently using a Linx tablet through PCLink as a dash whilst i wait for the new MXT aim dash. So i know the original cluster takes the speed signal from the gearbox and sends it to the ECU, but without the cluster. How can i get that information to the ECU?

Quick appreciation post @Adamw i ammended the dead times to suit asnus data sheet, and the car sits at a steady afr now. I tried auto CLL mode but it didnt seem to react as fast as stoich, maybe i have the settings wrong. ive also moved idle target to 13.9 as the car runs so much smoother on idle.

Thanks adam, ive got a good log now with the afr changing. This is with CLL turned off the whole time. I pulled over 3 times, the first and last time the afr was on target but the second time was off. Sometimes it goes rich, sometimes lean. So with the dead times... when my car was mapped it was overcharging at like 16v.. once i fixed this my tuner said hell amend my dead times.. im guessing he just adjusted the 13v value. So as you suggested dead times, i read them along with battery votage and my afr/target.. they all seem to marry up, almost like when my car is charging .1v lower it sits at a different afr.. ill attach a screenshot below and a link to my log. So grateful for your time adam! https://easyupload.io/ii8z88 LINK ABOVE

Ill send you a direct message adam. Thanks for looking.

Closed Loop Lambda

sorry for the late delay, only just managed to get out, here is a short log of the car idling when i pulled over, ide say it was idling for 20 seconds before i logged and stayed like this. ccl not working.llgx

To be honest, i agree, the log i got was poor, i should of waited until the problem was more obvious, i will go for a drive later tonight and get it to sit way off target on idle, and i will log it then. Is there anything i should do or interigate, settings wise?

So, my car is an R33 GTR RB26 It made 620 on a hub dyno, has tomei type b drop in cams, single turbo ect. Its running a standard intake plenum with aac and iac still fitted. Im using a G4x with a motec lsu (lambda to can) When i first got my car back i was surprised with how lumpy and rough it idled. Ive got a tablet with pclink constantly on display, when i switched over to 'lambda' layout it was floating about 12 afr and target was 14.6 at 80°. After a visit back to my guy who mapped it, it was discovered CLL wasnt switched on. But before switching it back on, the afr seemed to keep returning after being corrected manually, and then occasionly fly up to 17s.. We figured this is an issue with my car not the map. So cll was switched back on with +/-20% correction But after returning home it seems its bahaving the same, now whilst it sits at say 13 afr ive tried switching cll on / off and no difference is made.. Ill pop a link for two logs, one is where i start the car from cold and let it idle up to 80° and one is me switching cll off then on. https://easyupload.io/m/d39955

I have there is at least 11v once the engine kicks into life, there is a dip in voltage as you can see from the logs when i first turn the key, but its traight back up to 11+ afterwards. I think its 'flooding' due to the fuel getting sent in, is not getting burnt, which would make me suspect a spak issue or ign timing, but having checked both. Im not sure. I did try cranking the master fuel up to around 8ms and the symptoms got worse. Out of interest, roughly what duty cycle and ms would you ecpect to see on idle, on this application?

Ive tried turning the fuel up. It just gets worse until it wont fire at all, and the tank was emptied and filled with fresh super fuel. I tried 0ing all my accel, cold start and anything that can effect my fuel table. I then adjusted my fuel table but still got the same result. Either not enough to start it, straight to too much to get a flood syptom

yeah, to hear the car actually burst into life initially, gives me some hope for a simply fix! Nissan Skyline R33 GTR - Base map ADAM.pclx PC Datalog.llgx Trigger scope.llgx

This write up is going to be a little lengthy, but i really want to explain what ive done so far in depth, in hope for some help / suggestion to where i could even look! Nissan Skyline GTR R33 Forged ect, prp 12-1 trigger R35 coils Link G4x ecu. I bought the car with a spun shell. The car still idled fine, and i drove it from the flatbed to my garage. Ive rebuilt the engine, forged, cams, head work, single turbo, uprated fuel system, ect... the usual. Ive slowly pieced it all together over the last couple of years when funds allowed. Upon start up, i had a couple of issues with trigger (polarity) which quickly got sorted, i also clipped my cam sensor with the pick up and caused some damage. I checked them with a trigger scope and all seemed fine. But after weeks of not being able to start the car, i changed it anyway... an interesting find was that although fitting it back to (visually the same position) i then went from -62 offset to -92 offset. I then seen it a trigger scope the cam and crank were clashing, so i moved sensor position probably only 10 degrees or so and now there nowhere near each other.. but when i reset my timing expecting it to be out, i got -92 again. At this point my car will now start up for about 1-2 seconds, it hits around 800 rpm and dies, then every attempted start after this is less and less succesfull, until after about 4 times it wont fire at all.... at this point if i switch the injectors off, the car fires into life for 2 seconds and dies, i can then switch them back on, and repeat... this to me says too much fuel to spark Ive checked and changed every spark plug. Ive done the standard ignition test available on the ecu, ive also removed one spark plug at a time, earthed it and watched a good spark right through the 2 seconds of running. Ive measure my 12v+ for the coil pack harness, it drops to like late 9s at initial crank but as soon as it fires its straight up to 11.7ish. Ive check the wire locations on the wiring specialists coil harness. Also check for any resistance and got none. My ignition timing, i've checked many times, with 2 different guns. I lock my timing to 0 and select an offset that brings my tdc mark on my ati balancer up to the timing mark on the cover. I have also done a test where i left all my spark plugs in, and fired the car up (for 2 seconds) and kept an eye on timing, it stayed where the map is telling it the whole time (around 11 degrees) These is effecting all cylinders as the plugs are going black evenly. Ive checked all the injectors are switching in the right order, the resistor pack has been bypassed (soldered) with no resistance as i have ASNU 1050s. Im getting good fuel pressure the whole time, 43 psi ish. Ive used a map which adamw has looked over and said should start it. Ive tried reducing my fuel slowly to the point it wont start and it just wont idle. If i the fuel just rights sometimes it will fluctuate between 400-800rpm for 5 or 6 seconds, any throttle at this point just kills it. My TPS and map sensor have been calibrated and read okay. Ive tried different timing offsets in steps of 10 and it just gets worse each way. Im just left scratching my head as to why the car wont run. Ive never had to take my car somwhere to be diagnosed ever, but ive got this booked in with a skyline specialist in a couple of weeks. I just thought i would put this out there and see what people think, or can suggest, other than BURN IT!

It is an rb, but with a 12-1 prp kit. Understood, im yet to adjust to fix, but what would it cause if they clash?

I've seen people on here writing about trigger signals clashing, and moving cam sensors / switching from falling - rising. but what would it cause if they clashed? I asked because mine are on top of each other.. TriggerScopeLogydcj.llgx