deltakatsu

Sorry, the Dyno tune is under an NDA. Earlier I have my road tune posted which may help you out, but it runs rich. ------ Separately, I've got my Spartan 3 installed, and it seems to be playing nice with the Link. Gonna try and futz my way through Termite and change it to heated start, instead of delayed start.

Thank you for the breakdown on this. I checked and it looks like the tuner did set up the Auto Mode's tables, so I'm thinking it should be okay to run, just not sure why it was switched to Stoich. Also, he's got it locked out at anything over 50% throttle or 4500RPM, which seems really low for an engine that revs to around 8400.

I see. Thank you for the insights on it! Between this and figuring out how to write to the Spartan 3's UART, I've got some futzing ahead of me.

How does it benefit the catalytic to run on Stoich?

I got my pipe checked out and there was a multitude of issues. The pipe had a leak, and when the welder took it off, there was a decent amount of moisture in it. I got the wideband mount corrected for depth and angle (It was also too far backed out, so it wasn't sticking in the pipe enough). Also got a Spartan 3 Lite with a Bosch LSU ADV wired in. It seems to be reading well, but the ADV is firing up immediately. I've got a UART -> USB adapter on order so I can adjust it to delayed start. I did have a question: I was looking over the dyno tuner's file and noticed he has lambda set to stoich. Do I want to stick with that over auto? The helpfile makes auto sound better, but is there a reason to stick with using the AFR table via stoich wideband mode?

I should follow up on this. I got the car road tuned with help from my Link supplier. I then drove it to the dyno for a spin. He had some trouble with the engine staying too cold (it was a very chilly day, and I probably have a bad tstat), but was able to get it tuned and enclosed is the comparison to the OEM ECU (lighter gray line). It feels about the same on the low end, but it absolutely screams once it gets past 5k. However, in the 1000 miles I've driven it since, I've lost two Bosch widebands. I have an appointment next week to get the downpipe rebuilt. The wideband looks like it's just a hair higher than 9 o'clock, and it's about four inches from the 2-1 in my manifold, so the plan is to move it further down the pipe and get it up to 10 or 2 o'clock. Hopefully that fixes it, or else I need to look into alternative controllers, which is a bit of a stretch with my budget right now.

Since my truck took a turn for the worse, I need to get the MR2 running now, so I'll have to suck it up with the LC-2 until it dies, and then I'll get the Spartan or switch to CAN if that's feasible. My main concern is I don't want a round gauge in the cabin. It's not a dedicated track/other car, so "good enough" on the wideband will drag me along for now. In other news, I got the LC-2 talking to the Link, and the car idles. I'll run the Quick Tune so I can make it to the tuner shop next week and go for a dyno spin!

Just an update on this: The LC-2 was grounded to the body right next to the ECU's ground. Both outputs from it were reading 5.5V with a multimeter, which should be outside its threshold. Tested against two different widebands and got the same results. I ordered a replacement controller preemptively. It's probably too late to go CAN for me, but what other gaugeless analog controllers should I have considered instead of the LC-2 for this application? Another question: Is there a reason I'd have two Lambda inputs? It looks like they're being averaged together to my untrained eye. Or am I seeing it wrong, and I can disregard Lambda 1?

It was the distributor... Now to get the Innovate working with the Link! Regarding that, I saw an old post here saying the LC-2's brown and yellow wires output differently. If I am setting them both to output wideband in the Innovate software, is that enough, or do I have to splice both my gauge AND the ECU signal to the yellow wire? I also wanted to verify that the Innovate should be body-grounded and not sensor grounded, because I'm getting conflicting opinions on that. Thanks! PC Datalog - 2023-01-30 5;01;47 pm.llgx Jan30_TriggerScopeLog.llgx

Strong beep, 0.0 to 0.1 ohms of resistance.

Actually, my distributor was MIG welded about two years ago to fix a crack... It held on for a while though, but maybe that weakened it or something.

It's a Silvertop, set up to plug into the MR2's body harness and the Silvertop's OEM ECU. I was wondering what the OEM tolerances were for voltage, because 0.1V is still REALLY low. Is there no way to boost that signal? Though I've heard of other people getting 20v running on Link, so I'd imagine the problem is on my end. I'll look into the drill tomorrow after my doctor's appointment. But is that going to be different from spinning the distributor with the spark plugs out? As for the resistance: Assuming I'm looking at the pins correctly, I get open on both 25 and 34 from 7.

I moved the magnets closer, approximating 0.2mm with a feeler gauge. I couldn't find a good guide on doing this but it seemed straight forward. I'm also ordering another used distributor just in case. As for wiring, it's a patch harness from a vendor going to the OEM loom. It's a swap, but it ran for four years with no issues, so I'm fairly confident in the layout of the swap harness (but won't discount that it may have developed issues). 7 > 8 = 189.4 ohms 7 > 9 = 152.1 ohms 8 > 9 = 249.2 ohms

And here's after attempting to regap the distro. Regap_Dizzy - TriggerScopeLog.llgx PC Datalog - 2023-01-23 9;56;01 pm.llgx

Enclosed are some screenshots of the trigger scope. With the spark plugs out made no significant difference on the output voltage. I also tried cranking at two different distributor timings (turned all the way forward, and all the way back). This is probably the next thing to test, I suppose! dizzy02_SparkPlugsIn_TriggerScopeLog.llgx Plugs in dizzy 01 - PC Datalog - 2023-01-23 9;09;09 pm.llgx SparkPlugsOut_TriggerScopeLog.llgx dizzy01_SparkPlugsIn_TriggerScopeLog.llgx