_pkmds
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Posts posted by _pkmds
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4 hours ago, Adamw said:
I would start by lowering the CLL MAP delta lockout so that it deactivates during transients like it should. That will help some. Possibly the accel hold will need to be increased or the main fuel table will need to be tweaked in thos cells but see how it looks with the CLL working properly first.
I worked on map delta lockout fixed it little bit. But i see that thr CLL decreases too much fuel when you leave the throttle and then needs too much fuel to increase when it goes to 80-90 kpa of MAP. Actually the fuel table it has values for 13.70 and 13.4 AFR on 80-100KPA of MAP. Which is too much for no boosting area and when I was driving on uphills or light throttle the car was struggling and i decide to increase the AFR to 14 and 14.7 and the engine feels more efficient and responsive. So probably i need to decrease like 6-8% of fuel in this area?
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43 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Can you attach the tune too.
thanks for the reply. here you go
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hello guys .almost always i get lean out AFR to 16-17 ratio after gear changing or pressing the throttle after over-run fuel cut. I'm not sure 100% but i dont have any behavior like this on full throttle, only when im cruising and changing gears on uphills or driving in low rpm .i saw that the Lambda corrects 8-10% of fuel and hesitates to return to zero. could be this problem ? i see also that the lambda decreases fuel status while i leave the gas which is not logical because you have over-run fuel cut active the same time. here's the log , should i increase the fuel table values where i get lean out behavior to decrease the value of fuel correction?
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On 8/7/2022 at 4:40 PM, INSW20 said:
mine is set to 200hz. why are you running negative ignition advance at idle? the idle ignition table is a lookup table, not an "adder" table. so if you set idle ignition to -5, you will be firing the coil at -5 degrees. my 3sgte also seems happy idling at about 15 degrees
no idea, my tuner set it up like this .i dont know the benefit of it. the ISC valve worked with the way you said to me. thanks man
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22 hours ago, dx4picco said:
to tune idle correctly there are many things acting on this at the same time.
First make sure your AFRs are in check from cold to warm. then disable idle ignition (fixed timing at target) have you main ignition table not higher than 3-4 degrees compared to your idle ignition timming, in the same area.
then tune your idle air control valve opening/% to get to target, then tune your fan/PS/hold steps, then turn your idle ignition on and close loop.
the idle while im moving with neutral is around the red circle.with these values in this cells from 1300-1500 rpm i have 1100-1200 i dont know what will happen if i change from 10degrees at 1500rpm to 5 degrees and negative like -5 or -2 degrees at 1000 .technically i think it will work but is it bad if i do it like this? it will affect anything? i tried like two months ago to increase the RPM lockout of idle ignition control from 10kph to 50-60 it worked tho but because the ignition angle was negative the exhaust was doing some light shootgun shoots like i had anti lag . if i place negative ignition angle on high rpm but on far upper right cells it will do the same ? lol
and these are my settings on idle.
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21 hours ago, INSW20 said:
I meant "idle air control valve", I'm certain we're talking about the same thing, the little air valve on the bottom of the TB. Mine is a Gen2. I don't have any speed inputs into the ECU currently (91 cable speedometer, no ABS, no cruise sensor yet), so my speed lockout is "off".
Maybe start by turning idle ignition control off, closed loop idle off, double check everything and start with fresh idle tuning. And of course save your current cal as a revision if you need to revert back. Here are my settings, not saying this is ideal, but this seems to work well for my setup.
We have same settings expect that I have speed lockout enabled (which doesn't work because thr ISC valve is always "ON" how much Hz you set ? 250 or 200? 3D table works perfect tho. Thanks for the information
21 hours ago, dx4picco said:to tune idle correctly there are many things acting on this at the same time.
First make sure your AFRs are in check from cold to warm. then disable idle ignition (fixed timing at target) have you main ignition table not higher than 3-4 degrees compared to your idle ignition timming, in the same area.
then tune your idle air control valve opening/% to get to target, then tune your fan/PS/hold steps, then turn your idle ignition on and close loop.
The afr is correct tho. In cold it has 13.5 when it goes to 50c then it has stable 14.7. when i tuned the ISC I turned off closed loop i saw how much actual DC values it needed to have the RPM target e.t.c. the problem is that my Idle ignition control is tuned around -5 , -2 and 0. The ignition table at idle cells is 15 degrees . If i reduce it it helps a lot but i have bad behavior because if i cruise between 1200-1500 rpm i have really low ignition angle and feels like the car is struggling to accelerate. I'll show you some screenshots
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3 hours ago, Adamw said:
It can operate it however you want. If you want the valve to close when throttle is open then set up your base position table to do that.
Yes. I didn't know that i can change the axis load from rpms to TP main in 3D table. With this way it will fix my problem I'll try it today .
45 minutes ago, INSW20 said:Another local 3sgte owner rerouted his idle air plumbing to the throttle body inlet, so his IACV position can’t cause boost leaks. Just depends on how your air plumbing is set up.
I’m not sure why our IACV positions are so different, but my idle is about 850-900rpm hot. The engine responds appropriately to changes in valve position, so I never considered that I may have any problems there.
The IACV is the idle air conditioning valve? Or you mean the ISCV ? What engine revision you running? What's your valve registration? One is as slave and the other regular isc motor? If i set my warmed status duty cycles to lower values , the ECU automatically will increase the duty cycle until it reach the rpm target. So i checked how much Duty cycle it needs to reach 900rpm and i set it on 62.8% , otherwise I have unstable idle rpms which the engine starts bouncing because of idle ignition control. Anyways when you cruising and you put it on neutral what rpms you've got? Mine revs to 1200-1300 because the idle ignition control is out of speed lockout and takes ignition angle target from the ignition table but if i adjust the ISCV to 30% DC it stops.. seriously theres so many things that noone can fix them and im looking all the time by myself
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8 hours ago, Adamw said:
The idle valve is usually plumbed to both sides of the throttle as a bypass. So under boost you have the same pressure on both sides of the valve.
Doesn't work like that in 3sgte. The isc valve has 2 ports one for cold status and one for idle. The link doesn't operate the valve correctly like it should thats why boost air has advantage to make boost leakage
6 hours ago, INSW20 said:I have my idle valve set to close over about 5% TPS on my gen2 3SGTE, for what that's worth.
I've been very happy with how my engine idles. It's taking filtered air from the turbo inlet tube.
I was thinking to do the same. How so you have so low DC on warmed positions? How much Idle rpms you use ?
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Hello, searching for this problem like 3-4 months . My first tuned map i got was a mess. The tuner made the AC idle valve to manage the idle and the actual ISCV's duty cycle was like 10-20%. The car was boosting alright ,not any boost hesitation or behaviors like boost leak.
When another tuner made my final map we fixed and changed many things so the ISCV duty cycle went to 65% to hold the desired idle. The problem is that since then i have enough boost leak of this valve.
The stock ECU let's the valve open when you cruising until some RPMs or TP position(no idea specifically). In particular moment with G4+ is impossible to make it work like this because i did everything in parameters of ISCV adjustments.
The situation it's tested and 100% i have boost leak from there. Is there any other way to fix this problem or i need to install a non-return valve in this air hose to eliminate this problem?
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On 5/12/2022 at 12:37 AM, Adamw said:
Its meant to stay open all the time, it should jump to the base position + any offset when outside of idle conditions, the valve should be plumbed into the intake so it has the same boost on both sides.
In G4X you assign the actuator type in the idle settings. In G4+ you assign the actuator type in the aux output settings. If your aux output is set to "ISC solenoid/slave" and not "ISC Stepper" then it is set correctly.
Well then ISC ia correct. I found what it was the problem. Firstly the ignition idle control had different range and higher ignition angle which was around 8-13 degrees. When i retuned the map the tuner changed the range and the degrees to 0-5 degrees this forced me to increase 15-20% the ISCV duty cycle of what it was. The correct DC was 60% for 900rpm but the ignition table on "idle area" was to high without the idle ignition control so the ecu was trying to recover the idle target which was impossible because i had 20-23 degrees of ignition angle. I fine-tune the idle area from 5-8 degrees and now it has 1100 than 900 when the car is moving on neutral or changing gears. Which technically compared with the stock Ecu's behavior is too close. So the problem I think it fixed.
On 5/11/2022 at 9:30 PM, HuxRacing said:Following. I have no idea about the iacv other than in the past we always plumbed the 3s valves back into the boosted track. Your Idle ignition table should be actual timing values versus idle error. Looks to be setup as timing offset values.
It was the ignition table area that i marked.. i reduce some of degrees and its working perfectly now.
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On 5/10/2022 at 12:22 AM, Adamw said:
The stepper motor setting doesnt matter since you dont have a stepper motor, yours is a solenoid.
The jerking/hunting effect is your overrun fuel cut bouncing on and off.
The RPM hang would suggest the base position table hasnt been tuned.
The only place in your log that idle control is working is for about 1 second at the very end when the car stops moving. The rest of the time you are above your idle speed control speed lockout.
Will need to see a log with some actual idling in it to help much further with idle control.
Hello Adam,
But the G4X supports 3Wire Solenoid.Im asking about the ISCV because the solenoid doesnt go off while im driving. it sucks air so i think this could make it leak air also on boost.I guess needs to be close when you boosting.if the map read 105kpa for example or 60-70% of TP somehow should give order to completely close the Solenoid.
the position table is tuned, the correct DC value is 48% after 70C degrees which doesnt make the RPMs bounce up and down. if i change it higher than 55% then starts bouncing up and down. the reason i want it around 50-55% is that when i rev up and returns to idle makes a little gap and goes down to 850RPM and then 900RPM. its not major issue you barely feel it.
The Overrun deactivation is on 1300(by default) this is another issue for me because when i leave the gas cuts off and hits 1300RPM and then gives gas again, in towns or short destinations is little be frustrating because the engine doesnt actually slow down in gear.
Im thinking of something the last days. Whats the proper way to keep stable RPM if you dont have ignition idle control ?i guess is to tune the ignition table area that is the idle on low ignition angle correct? When the ecu disables the ignition idle control then the engine revs up like maniac for no reason. the idle ignition control warmed up is somewhere around 0degrees and 5degrees depends the ECT(watch the attached photo) So if i change the ignition angle from the ignition table to lower values it will decrease eliminate the problem, is that correct?In base map also has 10degrees there.
I attached also a photo of the ignition table and marked the idle area.
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hello folks,trying to setup some things on my engine while ago, while the car is moving above the speed lockout on neutral the engine revs up to 1300rpm all the time and bounching up and down and when the speed touches the speed lockout of ignition idle control then goes to idle target(900 rpm). sometimes holds high rpms while i change gears or slight moving or having the clutch pressed(which the clutch has individual vacuum feed )
I have 3 wire ISCV and the stepper motor type is on unipolar 6 terminal should i change it to 4 terminal ?All idle feeds and ISCV is cleaned recently. Also aux 1 is isc sol slave and aux 2 is isc solenoid.
any ideas?
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On 4/6/2022 at 12:54 AM, Adamw said:
At the ecu end of the cable, connect the shield and the ground wire to sensor ground. At the sensor end of the cable dont connect the shield to anything.
Okay. What's thw difference if i ground the sensor's negative on chassi? ECU gets ground from chassi. It should be same correct?
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On 11/9/2020 at 7:02 AM, Adamw said:
Have a look at "TE ML 2" on this page: https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Screened_Cables.html This is the common M27500 that is used in motorsport, probably overkill in a road car but if you only need to buy a few meters it doesnt usually work out too bad. 150°C rated so a bit more suitable than the 70°C rated belden above.
What is the correct wiring if we use shielded cable? We bridge the shield's wire on ground wire that one goes knock's sensor signal - and at other side also we bridge the shield's wire on knock's signal - which it will hook up on ECU's ground pin? I mean we don't individually ground the shield's wire somewhere to chassi or something?
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On 3/29/2022 at 10:51 AM, Adamw said:
I wouldnt worry about the idle valve postion, that will have no effect.
For the stumble I suspect possibly too much fuel. When you stab the trhottle the active cell moves from the green cell in the picture below to the red cell so this adds quite a bit more fuel. Usually I find most engines the low RPM columns are similar numbers all the way from low MAP to high MAP. So when you consider MAP has been increased by 2.5X, fuel table number has increased by 1.8X, accel fuel is multplying by 1.35X, you have a total of 600% more fuel going in when you stab the throttle.
Have you tuned the red area of the fuel table steady state?
Adam, Is the link g4+ compatible with low independence injectors? Because these motors have Injectors with resistor on. We checked it its not about fuel, it's about actual hesitation. You blip the gas theres hesitation of it's action and then injects fuel
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On 3/29/2022 at 10:51 AM, Adamw said:
I wouldnt worry about the idle valve postion, that will have no effect.
For the stumble I suspect possibly too much fuel. When you stab the trhottle the active cell moves from the green cell in the picture below to the red cell so this adds quite a bit more fuel. Usually I find most engines the low RPM columns are similar numbers all the way from low MAP to high MAP. So when you consider MAP has been increased by 2.5X, fuel table number has increased by 1.8X, accel fuel is multplying by 1.35X, you have a total of 600% more fuel going in when you stab the throttle.
Have you tuned the red area of the fuel table steady state?
Well this is what i thought too. I saw that at 100MAP dumps too much fuel. Actually the entire MAP is complete retuned from other tuner.im gonna tell him to check it out tho...
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14 hours ago, aerace_fab said:
post a copy of your calibration and a PC log attached to it please.
Hello mate, in this message i have attached the MAP and the log i recorded when the problem is performing. When i press the throttle it says 90% or 98% but if you see the RPMs are like lower than idle. Idle is 900 and it goes 830. Also i have hardtime to understand the ISC valve how it works. when its on complete idle i have RPM target(900RPM with 48%DC) but when i press the gas little bit goes like 51% DC and keeps it there for couple of seconds and shows all the time that it tries to decel the RPMs. Should i place it on 51% or 48%?
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On 3/14/2022 at 10:06 PM, Adamw said:
It could be many things, but most likely acceleration enrichment settings.
I search everything. changed values on Idle control,i changed values on Acceleration enrichment. i lowered some values on accel clamp table . felt little worse so i increased the values and nothing changed at all.i Searched the entire forum incase someone had same problem but no. When i press the gas pedal aggressively shows that injects fuel normally the AFR goes hell of rich like 10.5 and then after some miliseconds revs up like it has spark hesitation or something .its seriously strange because when i rev up gently it works normal tho...
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Haven't say anything different. By setting up a password generally on the MAP is big problem. the tuner has to lock atleast fuel tables ignition tables motorsport functions e.t.c and not the section on wire registration.
Not all people are thst honest to keep the deal you've done before.i did a deal he said that he'll not lock it but he did and i discovered it when i needed to check a malfunction. Anyways
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Hello everyone,
when my engine is on idle and i press aggressively the throttle pedal i hear the intake sucking air but it has hesitation to give rpm.
what have i done wrong? its not e-throttle.
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2 hours ago, Confused said:
Oh dear that sucks!
Hopefully you've got a backup of how it was before you let that idiot loose on it - you can restore your previous backup, overwriting the current locked tune.
(I think you can also save off the current locked tune as a file on your laptop and you can restore it again later)
I would always recommend that one of the requirements that's asked of your tuner is that they do not lock your ECU - and if they don't agree to that (and spout some rubbish about it being their right to protect their work etc) then walk away.
The ability to lock it is possibly due to some of the usage within motorsport where a set ECU & tune is developed and shared across all competitors.
Well there's only one tuned MAP .i have a MAP unlocked which i saved because i calibrated everything and wire in some extra things i wanted and ignition calibration but its without the tune he did . Generally the entire setup was from me he just tuned it on DYNO and he locked. The funniest thing is that the deal was to not lock the MAP since i paid him full price and the ECU obviously is mine and he said "i nEvEr lEaVe mY wOrK uNpRotEcTeD"
BRUH...seriously that kind of people pisses me off, they acting like you didn't paid them. because he tuned it doesnt mean that the map belongs to him.I'll find way to get the MAP and i will fix the idle by myself i have no trust to this guy anymore. If you did work for rally car or something that you didnt even have base map and you have special settings in it i'd that you can lock it..whatever i don't know seriously since someone paid something it belongs to him .doesn't matter who made it or whatever else.
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12 hours ago, Adamw said:
You can use any wideband you like - analog or CAN is fine. You will however need to set up the input correctly with the calibration table etc.
okay thanks Adamw !
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Hello guys,
there's already installed PLX wideband installed in the car and im just wondering if i swap the wire that comes from the stock narrowband with analog output that comes from the PLX device will give correct values or it will have misreadings ?Its mandatory to install can-lambda?
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1 hour ago, koracing said:
I'm personally against locking out tunes - particularly if you're paying the tuner for the work. Not much you can do without getting access to the tune at this point unless you want to start over with someone else.
i guess link needs to update their program without password protection since the ECU is customer's and not tuner's. anyways
Lean out on slight throttling
in G4+
Posted
I tried to increase or decrease fuel but made it worse.if i set the TPS lockout to 0 it stops doing that but also stops the fuel correction. Ill attach you another log