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Hello there, it could be long the follow message but worth the reading and understand how copyrights and job protections should work of every engineer (also is kinda stupid because you pay everything he does and its not "rented" to have restrictions on it) im PLC programmer and car electrician and PLC softwares give you the right to make some rights at each password. since someone pays 1.500+ euro to buy an ECU which is unlocked to get rid of stock locked ECU(especially on late 80s and 90s cars) needs to be unlocked at some points for everyone or atleast for the owner.What i mean? There are tuners that they lock up the entire ECU because they dont want to see what kind of tuning they have inside but other engineers is kinda restricted to do their job too... For example, If a customer needs to wire in some sensors or switches e.t.c we have to contact with the tuner to unlock it via remote and he waits to finish our job to lock it again incase if we "stole" his masterpiece . not all people working same hours or same days so you understand as professionals its big problem for us. Its not only for us but there are people that they maintain and mechanical tune their car by their own so they have the right to have access in the ECU. You should to upgrade the password of level access. even PLC programmers on industry give to to customer the grand access password for some fixes..instead on cars could be for example: idle controls or wire relocations or wire registration should be free and if the tuner doesnt want to give grand access he should have the right to lock only their Fuel,ignition tables or whatever else they think is so special. Now im in trouble because the tuner messed up the idle control valve with the A/C idle control valve and my customer's car cannot keep stable idle RPM on cold and A/C cannot operate too because he didn't enables the output, we cannot fix it because tuner is on vacation, thats really messed up. other customer needed to recalibrate their base ignition because we changed distributor and he was forced to pay 150bucks for 5 minutes of work because the tuner has locked the ECU. I hope as information could help the LINK team works on software's design and solve this big problem for all of us. Thank you in advance readers or link's employees

The tuner tuned it yesterday, expect the thing that he locked the ECU and i cant see anything anymore, he messed up everything on IDLE control valves. the engine wont decrease rpms lower than 1000rpm. supposed it has base rpm to 900 and he fully closed the idle control valve bearly breaths from there and he made the AC idle control valve as base .i discovered it today.i can't reach him on phone and the car at cold start or generally on cold weather drives like arse at low rpm and and when you press the gas pedal little bit aggressive the engine goes almost to shut down and i think this happens because the AC valve is to small to feed the throttle body and because this valve has the hose on Intercooler and not direct on throttle like the normal idle control valve. Definetely the AC doesnt even start up...

AAAA.. So there's same function as the "E1-TE1" in the LINK program. and what is that work ? enabling the calibration function with loose distributor and timing light and doing it like you do on STOCK ecu ? what E1-TE1 does exactly? just decreases to stable 500RPM so you can calibrate it easily ?

Not really. It is not a digital signal, the feedback circuit is a weird 3 wire analog signal representing motor current. You are probably best to just set up a warning lamp for high IAT or similar. Well if its not Digital signal so probably i'll get in trouble for something ain't worth i guess.i've done that for IAT warning already as alternative . so i leave it as it. got it Inj 7 & 8 drives arent available on this ECU, if you wanted an extra fuel injector you would have to use the aux injection function with outputs Inj 5 and/or 6. Charge cooler pump and oxy heater would need to be moved to different outputs. im not saying that i need specifically to add more fuel injectors im just saying that if i want to add something extra i can use these outputs i guess?i will also pinout the OXY heater because i changed the narrowband to wideband so its not useful anymore. well i wasn't get in trouble for reconnect the diagnostic box in to LINK for sure. Tuner told me that he will calibrate the timings and incase if i change or loose the distributor i should have it marked before i do it and there's a function in the PC program that reset it to normal again . is that correct or i understood wrong ?

Well i did it that way ,power's up the pump on 800RPM if the inlet temperature is above 10 degrees celcius. all i need is to draw a wire for MTT that is the pump's feedback that shows is on or off. So i dont have to worry about then for these. Thanks for all this information tho. i'd like to have 950 RPM on idle but i think if you setup your IDLE on 950RPM and incase you turn on foglights that they have power consumption LINK will fix automatically the idle to 950rpm is that corrrect or its impossible to do that ? Well im really big fun of your work you doing on SW20s and you searching it too much on 3SGTEs. sadly im not in US. Anyways im worried about the start up with that tuner because he's not so experienced on stock wiring 3SGTE but anyways we'll see at the end i guess LOL. also i've another question on AUX output (IGN) theres a function "PURGE" this pinout is the EVP1 which is the evaporator canister is that function correct for this ? what "PURGE" means exactly ? because when in started the engine had really bad idling(like 1800-2000 rpm?),unstable idle , cutting offs and when got warmed up had 16-17 AFR.when the engine was going to die because the idle was unstable that "PURGE" function was going "ON" - "OFF". I tried to fix the warm-coldstart or atleast the idle but seriously i didn't understand a word . also needs recalibration on timing i guess so the LINK can see that is on 10 degrees right? (the distributor was fixed on 10 degrees with E1-TE1 bridged on stock ECU like manual says with timing light "pistol" ) THANKS ALOT!

How did you find it? you checked stock pinouts and compare with G4+s? Today i was searching around the program and i found that G4+ supports one output wire which THANKFULLY is the power line (INT) that gives to intercooler water pump. its on Aux output (fuel) on Injector drive 5 and i applied function GP OUT with with 2 ways one is to start up on 800rpm (my idle its gonna be 950) so its gonna be on always and the second to not start it up if the ITs are lower than 5 degrees incase if the fluid is frozen or whatever. atleast the pump works now. I need also install the feedback of the pump to the ECU on a Digital Input for warning cell/fault code incase if the water pump is clogged/broken. is that possible ? Also i have another one question,the program categorizes the outputs. for example the wire i'm interested of is on aux-fuel category as you see. Does it matter? does affect anything on Fueling or whatever? or in case if you want to install 5th or 6th injector so it be near of the others?( i have picture about that to understand what im talking about) Thanks for the helping!

So i guess everything that is feedback signal like the above i said are not useful anymore right? G4X manual pinout shows that supports more outputs from stock wiring compared to G4+. if you download G4+ PNP for my engine and G4X PNP manual and go to pinouts diagram page you'll see that supports more wirings. many of them are inputs but i dont know if G4X has this ability to convert an output to input. For example i saw today that there's not digital input on stock wiring to support the stock Oil pressure switch sensor, i need to draw new wire on expansion Digital inputs if i want to use that. am i correct? I guess 2 speed fuel pump is not that usefull anymore nowdays right? you fixing your economy with tuning by the injectors and timing values. so there's no point to activate 2 speed fuel pump especially on aftermarket Fuel pumps because as i know most of them increase too much AMPs on low volts and they get fried. Thank you very much about your replies man !

Hello guys, Im new here recently bough a link G4+ for celica st205 ,but as i discovered G4+ doesnt support all OEM pinout. in couple of days ill get it for tune but i have some objections and i need to find them by myself cause the tuner is like "we dont need these sh#!ts take em off. but before i take everything out if they're useless i need to know atleast how the ECU works. So if someone knows something on the questions below I will be grateful to get an answer.! firstly as i see doesnt support many lines such when you turn on headlights or the brake , defrost e.t.c all these lines sends signal to ECU (STOCK) to increase the RPMs on idle. as i understand LINK ECU can do that with different way since its closed loop right? I see that doesnt support some pinouts, such the whole Intercooler Water to Air circuit how im supposed to make it work? (i see in newer link G4X supports all pinouts but not G4+) stock ECU has a circuit that takes signal from TPS and controls the PUMP speed accordingly the position of it, at idle i think the pump works at really low speed or maybe doesnt work at all and has another one that sends signal to ECU so it can see if the pump works in situation if is clogged. all these are 4 wires in stock pinout and unfortunately noone of them are supported in the ECU. Another one is the signal from distributor that sends back to ECU that the engine started up successfully is that useful anymore? or G4+ take this signal with different way? 3SGTE GEN3 has another function with 2 way Fuel pump volt . when the engine has no load and its under 3000RPM has a resistant that keeps the fuel pump on low voltage (8volt i think? could be less i dont remember) when you press the gas at 3000RPM and at particular values from the MAP the relay takes off the resistant and sends the high voltage is possible. I took a look on the LINK's program and i saw it has something like that but does the LINK needs the stock circuit or i need to bridge(take off the resistance) it for higher voltage and the ECU can decrease and increase the voltage by itself ? That's all for now i guess i haven't find anything else that worries me about yet. LOL Thanks in advance