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e34WagonZilla

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Everything posted by e34WagonZilla

  1. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1caeh5D-18XS9PFjlvelzVMCgZSekaz4y?usp=sharing I updated some settings regarding closed lambda loop, also recorded another log since then. They are located in this google drive folder I created. Right now working on verifying that my ignition and fuel system aren't an issue.
  2. Hi. Recently I've installed some remanfactured pink top injectors (21.5lbs/hr) in my M50, in my e34. I'll describe the issue I'm facing below after a few details on my tune that I've done myself. The injectors were flow test by Race German and verified as functional. So, before I was running off of the BMWLink x36 M50 base tune with my MAP sensor and TPS calibrated, I had already been running this map for months with some fine tuning to aid idle and fuel economy, nothing crazy as the motor is stock with a full custom exhaust built for the motor I'm swapping in eventually. So last Friday I exchanged the stock green top injectors for pink tops (the purpose is to have more overhead for an e85 tune otherwise I wouldn't be swapping). I also recently installed a wideband sensor in anticipation of this swap and for things moving forward... Enough of the preamble. So I had modify the entire fuel map to suit the new injectors, input a value of -40% to "Master Fuel Trim" under "Fuel Main" settings, and of course I set the dead times (Voltage x ms) for the pink top injectors, I used information found on a different forum. Some other things I changed to help the car run were "post-start enrichment" due to extreme rich idle in warm-up. So here's my issue. I've been having a very serious problem where 0-20% TPS input is often lean after coming in off throttle, like it shows up as a 20:1 AFR+ spike in my logs.. but this morning on my commute to work the engine was breaking up very badly and AFR across the board was extremely lean. Audibly misfiring under any load, sounded like a rev limiter. luckily I didn't have to drive too far like this. I checked my harness and fuel rail to see if there was any issues, none to report. I've been meaning to check my spark plugs and coil packs but I don't think its a problem either. Mainly think there's an issue with my tune but also, this misfiring/breakup issues are completely new since this morning. So I've included my most current tune and my log from this morning, which was 90% of my drive. My knock protection is set up. TIA, Jesse M50B25TU - 7000rpm - lean cruise - 24lbs bosch - full exhaust .pclx misfire.llgx
  3. I've been driving with the adjustments mentioned above since my last post on April 11th. Other than the lethargic driving experience, I've had significantly less occurrences of my cranking backfire.. Less. I've had it happen twice still. What are the chances this is a fault of my CPS? Would the triggerscope suggest this? I also would not be surprised if this is just a symptom of a very very tired M50TU, which it is.
  4. Alright. So I got a chance to check my timing yesterday morning. Glad I did because it seemed to have fixed my issue (for the most part). here’s how I went about doing so: - removed fan and shroud - cleaned up my CPS as it was very grimy (could have affected drivability I’m sure) - attached timing light to #1 cylinder coil wire - observed the location of the TDC timing mark (dampener) in correlation to the mark on the timing cover. I had to paint my TDC mark on the dampener as I did not have one engraved in (reference other dampeners and marked ~5th tooth clockwise from missing tooth. - timing was 2 degrees behind the mark after checking. I adjusted the base timing offset by (-)2 to account for this. My current offset value is -330, where it was -328 before. - checked timing again; marks were lining up although there was slight inconsistency (my idle is set to 600rpm at operating temperature) - reinstalled fan and shroud So far, I’ve driven over 200 miles with the adjustment and the engine seems to be more tame in lower rpm load situations, idle is slightly improved, and when cranking this morning I did not experience a backfire or failure to start in multiple attempts. One issue that has become more prevailing as of the past week is low RPM misfires from 1000-3000rpm (maybe three or 4 instances during acceleration; 1 is too many). I’m going to pull my spark plugs and check their condition, as well as my coil packs. Otherwise it’s probably just time for a rebuild (I say this with for intentions of replacing this motor with a built one lol). I’m pretty sure the stock bremi coils are fairly weak and it’s been only 30-ish years sooo I’d say it’s a fair assumption there is weak spark. I guess I can test them with a multimeter. I’ll be using some Audi R8 V10 coils for the built motor; have them now can’t wait to use them.
  5. okay. Sounds simple enough, I was almost on it. So I’ll need to remove the fan and shroud to view that timing mark, then I’ll get back to you guys with my findings. Likely tomorrow evening as I don’t have my special wrench with me. Thank you for the short and simple explanation. I familiarized myself with the base timing config. I was messing around with the timing offset and tried to advance and retard the original offset by 10 degrees. So starting at -328, I tried cranking at -318 and would not want to start, similar situation as when the motor is hesitant to start in the mornings but worse – sputters wheezes and dies, but no backfire. After trying -338 I found it would start okay but sluggish while under load. Yeah I know I skipped verifying my timing, I figured -+ 10 degrees couldn’t hurt - plus I logged every attempt to look back at. Glad I know how to do trigger scopes as well, even though I don’t necessarily know what I’m looking at… lol the more I mess with this engine, the more and more I think about how worn and beat it is and that it may not be the tune. There’s the entire timing system to blame because I’ve never serviced it, totally putting it off with my other motor in the scope. And of course 4 out of 6 of my cylinders are out of spec for compression readings sooo there’s that.
  6. So what am I looking for exactly? I have my timing light clamped to my #6 ignition coil wire and am receiving a tach of ~600 and not sure what is really confirming that my base timing is okay other than that matching up with my idle on the software readout. It's an innova unit with a digital readout. I'm trying to research how to check the timing correctly.
  7. Just ran out and bought one. I'll update you with my results soon.
  8. Using a timing light, correct? No I have not. All I know is I've never had this problem on the factory dme, and now having it with the g4x so I'm sure its the tune. Do you need more data? I can go get a timing light and mess around with that, I'm sure I'll need for the future anyways. One thing I ought to try is take a step back and see if I'm having the same issues on the unmodified base tune. Here is a triggerscope while the engine is idling during cold start, if that helps. TriggerScopeLog-idle.llgx It might be worth mentioning that adding a 2.0% offset to my dashpot under idle settings cured some severe undershoot problems I was facing initially. Maybe an indication that my timing is off? More backstory: engine is a lightly serviced (nothing beyond external service components) M50 at around 280k miles. Just trying to learn this platform in the meantime of building my M50B32 project.
  9. Even though it was warm this morning, I was able to catch the cranking misfire/backfire happen. The I captured the triggerscope while cranking, first attempt and did not start successfully. I attempted a start again and I believe I began recording a log during this. I'm not sure if you can record a triggerscope and a log at the same time and I was trying to start before attempting to crank since the ecu can lose power/connectivity to the laptop. Also, with triggerscopes, how do you view them in the software without being connected to the ecu? And do they only record a few ms of data? https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1caeh5D-18XS9PFjlvelzVMCgZSekaz4y?usp=sharing Attached the same files below just incase something's wrong with the g-drive. TriggerScopeLog-failedstartup.llgx idlestartup-triggerscope recorded.llgx M50b25TU-7BAR-600idle-igntune-idle.pclx
  10. Hello! I'm so happy I found this post.. I've been running a G4x e36x pnp ecu in my 1994 e34 for a few weeks and can't say I'm not pleased! Lately, I've been getting up early and starting the car at 4am every weekday for the past two weeks and cannot be having this misfire happening for another day longer. I need to fix this! I am also admitting I am the noobiest of the noobs when it comes to any engine tuning software, so keep that in mind please. Go easy on me, it's also my first post on this wonderful forum I'm also experiencing this exact same issue with the first attempt at start ending in misfire, followed by a successful 2nd attempt. I don't exactly know what to look for, based on some research and reading I've done in the last few days crank enrichment might have a lot to do with my problem. I doubt it's related to my cold start settings. Since reading OP's post, I've looked into my triggers and noticed trig1 has two errors reported. I am unsure of what the "Sync Tooth" setting falls under or where it's located in the software. During my first attempt at cranking the starter will turn the engine over endlessly and once i let off the ignition it's like a 12g shotgun is going off. I've also noticed this behavior being provoked after performing a store to the ECU and cranking, additionally when ambient temperature is around 70F and the engine is cool. Some details about my specific situation: 1. I've been starting up my car every morning around 4am where the ambient temp is roughly 60F 2. I have a full custom exhausts with headers and no catalytic converter (as if my neighbors weren't bothered enough) 3. I am not currently running a wideband sensor I have been messing around with idle control settings because I've always had a inconsistent idle but have since dialed it in for the most part; cold start is still rough and tends to bounce around when the car is running. I'm adding in a G-drive folder with a single log and the tune I was running at the time. Please, anyone, take a quick look and let me know if there's anything awry (there is lol). I will try and record some attempts at start (I only get one shot it seems) also will try and record a trigger scope even though I've never done that before. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1PVE84n31nQNl11-On91urxBMCYR1ZzD4?usp=sharing
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