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Mikel58

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Posts posted by Mikel58

  1. After seeing many other s2000 guys post their frustration on the Facebook s2000 group about the s2000 linkecu g4x Bosch ect calibration on a recent post from mpetrillo on there. I figured I'd try the different values first before pulling the sensor. Turns out s2000 guys that use g4x seem to all make a new calibration ect table because the default calibration on the s2000 base map is not right. Seems like all the s2000s guys chase that issue. So it should probably be changed.

    I changed my ect calibration to the honda k20 calibration. Temps look similar to what I'm seeing from my stock ecu now. 190s while driving. And the car actually can idle now without the temps rising into the 220s and 230s while the fans are going. 

  2. 1 hour ago, Adamw said:

    This does not confirm anything.  We need the resistance of the S2000 sensor measured at some known temperature that is above 80°C - I suggest boiling water if you are near sea level.  

    Below 75°C the Honda and bosch calibrations are near identical so comparing to IAT is pointless unless IAT was above 80°C when you done it.  

    I'm going to pull my sensor tomorrow and test it in some boiling water.

  3. 2 hours ago, mpetrillo said:

    I confirmed yesterday on my AP1 that the settings above are much more accurate then the Bosch sensor that's configured in the S2000 base map. I think Link should update their base map to avoid confusion in the future. 

    I have a GM IAT sensor and before the engine is running both IAT and ECT match now 

    Did you change to the k20 ect calibration?

  4. 10 hours ago, mpetrillo said:

    I thought I was losing my mind until I saw this post. I was seeing high ECTs on my AP1 S2000 and finally decided to check the sensor calibration. 

    I'm going to test this out today with my temp gun but according to other standalone ECUs, the AP1 ECT calibration should look like the following: 

    C F Ohms
    0 32 6205
    10 50 3920
    20 68 2454
    30 86 1604
    40 104 1072
    50 122 738
    60 140 535
    70 158 387
    80 176 284
    90 194 210
    100 212 159
    110 230 121
    120 248 95
    130 266 75
    140 284 60

    Let us know how that goes. I haven't  had much time to mess with my car recently. 

  5. I'm having some high ect readings from my g4x in my s2000. I'm seeing 204f-210f while driving. No air pockets in my coolant or leaks. If the car is idling for more than a few seconds the temps start to climb. The highest I've noticed is 228. Once I get moving it drops to the 204-208 range. 

    My fans are kicking on but they don't  seem to help. When I put my factory ecu back into the car I have no issues. I can leave it idling cook a meal and come back to the temperatures being normal. 

    I tried changing the driven speed lockout value to a higher mph and a lower mph. No luck.

  6. 6 hours ago, Adamw said:

    You can use the CANTEE and CANJST for both power and CAN.  Just be aware AEM use a different pinout in their 4pin DTM connector if your wideband came prefitted with a DTM4 on it.  

    The CAN port power supply for the ecu's with the 4 pin JST such as the S2000 is rated at 3A continuous and is protected with self-resetting fuses. It will power most widebands no worries. 

    The AEM bitrate is fixed at 500K.  The Link CAN gauge can be set to 500K though so they can run on the same bus.  There is one gotcha at the moment - the bitrate setting is only available in the Android gaugeart app, last I heard it wasn't in the iPhone app yet.   So you will need an Android to do the initial gauge setup.  

    I have an android phone so no worries there. I'll pin a jst4 plug for the wideband. Thanks for the response.

    Thanks for the respones guys 

  7. ECU: linkecu g4x s2000

    I have the linkecu can gauge in one can port and I'm going to wire the aem x inline wideband using the other can port. My first question is can I use a CANTEE 101-021 and use one can port? I'm not sure if it works with canjst4. 

    My second question is should I only wire the AEM net can low/high wires to the Link can circuit and run the power from my fuse box and ground to the chassis? Or just wire can low/high and the ground and power to the can connector?

  8. 15 hours ago, Vaughan said:

    this sounds right, 14.6psi is ~1 atmosphere, 4-5psi is 28-35kPa which is about right for idle vacuum. MAP is absolute pressure so 0 is total vacuum and 100kPa/14.5psi is atmospheric. MGP is gauge pressure so less than 0 is vacuum and greater than 0 is boost (MGP = MAP - BAP).

    Thanks. I'll try to get it setup today 

  9. 23 minutes ago, Vaughan said:

    As in higher pressure when idling than when off? what MAP sensor are you using? Plugin ECU?

    I'm using my factory map sensor. Calibration set to honda 92-99. I'm using the s2000 g4x plugin ecu

    31 minutes ago, Vaughan said:

    As in higher pressure when idling than when off? what MAP sensor are you using? Plugin ECU?

    When the car is off the map psi is 14.6. when on it's fluctuating around 4-5

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