JZSupra
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On 1/17/2024 at 10:34 AM, JZSupra said:
Hi Adam,
Thanks for replying. Really appreciate it!
Running 98 petrol (Australia)
I was a little worried about running to much ign advance coming into boost. I'll adjust the map and add some more in around the 0kpa mark.
I'm also not 100% confident with the knock setup at the moment. If it's detecting real knock or not. I think it is setup about right, but I haven't put knock headphones on to confirm.
Thanks for your notes about the lambda. I'll reduce it slightly for 12psi.
I won't have my tuning laptop (with the log file) for a few nights. So will upload that by the weekend.
I have bought a R35 coil pack and will be installing that tomorrow night. So I will see how that goes and I'll adjust the ignition timing as noted as well around 0kpa.
The high Intake temperature issue - I believe that is a slight issue with just how the manifold etc fits in the car. See attached photo. The silicone elbow sits on the turbo blanket (I've changed to a goleby parts turbo blanket since the photo. The golebys turbo blanket was on for this log/run etc).
I'll report back hopefully Friday night to give you an update on the situation and hopefully it'll be better news with the new coil packs. Although I'm not 100% sure.
I've also added a photo of my turbo manifold I made and am using for reference. Just had it flattened to seal better.
Just wanted to do an update. I've installed R35 Coils and the car drives so much better now. See Google Drive Link for todays log with the Coils, Photos of the Coilpacks installed and the modifications that you have to do to the Throttle Body and the Y Pipe (Basically just cut the bottom bolt off and the coolant port).
The car is just much better. AFRs in general are just a lot smooth and less crazy. I'm running BKR6E spark plugs by the way.
Intake air temps are still horrible and I really need to do a forward facing manifold sooner rather then later (The silicone elbow off the throttle body is sitting on the turbo blanket. After that large pull in 4th, I pulled over just to do a sanity check that nothing was on fire and noticed that the manifold and downpipe were glowing red. Not sure if I have too little ignitiing timing as it's drops to low 6 degrees high up in the rpm.
Thank you a lot for your notes. I've updated the map as discussed (Didn't do a long drive just more to test it out) and I'm just happy it's actually driving well! Time to do the cooling mods I've been dying to do (Oil Cooler and New Rad), and I'll be good to go!
Hopefully after this roll racing event I can get it booked in for a dyno and really see what we can do
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6 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Can you attach the actual log file from the ecu (.llgx). What fuel are you using? 10:1 with boost and pump gas is going to result in some compromises.
A couple of comments from a quick look at the incomplete data provided:
- Ign advance is very low around the 0kpa area and coming into boost. I would normally expect 25-30deg around there.
- Your logged ign angle during the pull starts at 8 and reduces to 6 at the top end, and you have up to 2.5 deg of knock retard being applied on top of that on and off throughout the pull.
- IAT climbs to a high temp very quickly. Suggesting either the compressor is not happy, the IC is restrictive or the IC is not efficient.
- Lambda is excessively rich for 12psi boost.
- The Toyota ignitors dont like much dwell and will current limit if working too hard. Usually around 1.8ms is the most they will take. However, this is usually a very noticeable misfire so not sure if this is relevant in this case.
Hi Adam,
Thanks for replying. Really appreciate it!
Running 98 petrol (Australia)
I was a little worried about running to much ign advance coming into boost. I'll adjust the map and add some more in around the 0kpa mark.
I'm also not 100% confident with the knock setup at the moment. If it's detecting real knock or not. I think it is setup about right, but I haven't put knock headphones on to confirm.
Thanks for your notes about the lambda. I'll reduce it slightly for 12psi.
I won't have my tuning laptop (with the log file) for a few nights. So will upload that by the weekend.
I have bought a R35 coil pack and will be installing that tomorrow night. So I will see how that goes and I'll adjust the ignition timing as noted as well around 0kpa.
The high Intake temperature issue - I believe that is a slight issue with just how the manifold etc fits in the car. See attached photo. The silicone elbow sits on the turbo blanket (I've changed to a goleby parts turbo blanket since the photo. The golebys turbo blanket was on for this log/run etc).
I'll report back hopefully Friday night to give you an update on the situation and hopefully it'll be better news with the new coil packs. Although I'm not 100% sure.
I've also added a photo of my turbo manifold I made and am using for reference. Just had it flattened to seal better.
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Hi Guys,
Got a odd thing and really can't make heads or tails of it. Basically had a mk3 Supra, put a Built Bottom end 2JZGE VVTI (10:1 Pistons, GE Headgasket, Spool Rods, New Toyta Crank and GTE Oil Pump), did a custom wire in FuryX G4X ECU, retaining the Factory IS300 Crossover intake and Hybrid DBW setup. Worked Great N/A. Wanted to turbo it, got a 3576 from a mate for free, he upgraded to a larger turbo, I made a log manifold with an external gate Turbosmart WG40 (Default 14psi spring - and it's pointing vertically down) and retained the crossover intake. Air to Air intercooler (used a ford terrority top mount intercooler mounted in the front - 2Inch from Turbo to Intercooler then 2.5 inch to throttle body with a 2.5 to 2.75 inch adaptor at the throttle body), and a big 4Inch x 200mm air filter. No BOV. Full 3Inch exhaust with the Wastegate recirculated. . Ti Performance 425LPH single fuel pump and new wiring/relay for it. I do have a turbo beanie installed.
okay. So the issue. basically, it's as slow as it was N/A. I looked at a datalog from when it was N/A and it took 10 seconds from 4000 in third to 7000rpm. I just took a log now and with 12PSI of boost, it takes 10 seconds from the same rpm and same gear (3rd gear - 75km/h to 130km/h roughly.
I'm really at a loss of why the car feels so slow and can't think if this is a tune related issue or if it's actually a hardware issue.
It feels like it just takes forever and just isn't that smooth. Feels like it might be slightly breaking up but there is no sudden cuts or really rough stopping issues. Just slow....
I've tried gapping from the plugs from 0.8 to 0.60mm. Removing the cat to test for restrictions. I've turned the VVTI off (Zerod the table). I've changed the Wategate from Single Port Connection to two port connection (See attached Turbosmart Screenshot of this). With the wastegate table at 0 it makes about 8-9 PSI of boost. round. Feels about the same each time.
AFR is around the 12-11 ish range with about 8 degrees of timing all. Self Tuned at the moment as once it's running good then I'll get it on a dyno.
I believe that the Factory IS300 wasted spark coilpacks and ignitior should be more then enough based on some posts on the IS300 NA-T page. I would install a R35 Coilpack but unsure about what bracket adaptors actually fit under the crossover intake and I don't particularity want to change the throttle body setup and manifold just yet as it's expensive and I'll need to add a DBW pedal into the car.
Any help is apprecaited as I'm really at a loss as the car just isn't great to drive and very slow. I've got a roll racing event on the 3rd of Feb (2 weekends away now). And I might pull out as the car is just slow and painful.
Also - being a full 3inch exhaust with 1x Hotdog and 1x Proper baffled muffler across the length of the supra. It's way louder then I expected. Not sure why. Bit disappointed that it is so loud.
Datalog and Map attached - Plus Link to Datalog so it's a little easier to visualize.
https://datazap.me/u/nutgud/car-slow-accerlate
Drive - Plugs Gapped to 60mm no Exhaust Restrictions.csv V69.pclx
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1 minute ago, DerekAE86 said:
First thing to check is if both the cooland and oil temp sensors have the correct calibration setup.
When the car is cold after being left overnight how close are the coolant and oil temps?
It would be odd there's such a difference between the temps on a fully warmed up engine.
Yes I thought the same thing. But I have triple checked the calibration and believe it to be okay.
In the morning they are both within a few degrees of each other and both slowly warm up as I would expect. The oil takes longer to get up to temperature.
I've looked at my old turbo gt86 data which has a thermostatic oil cooler and when the car was cruising on the freeway after 30 minutes for example both the oil and coolant were within 5c degrees of each other (between 85c-95c). So based of this, it does concern me.
Before I installed the oil temp combo sensor, I had oil pressure only and had gone to a track day and on the track the water stayed about 95c degrees while on track (it's a small tight track but 20 minutes sessions), and about 15c-20c ambient.
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Coolant temperature vs the oil temperature. Is it safe that my coolant temp is quite low however my engine oil temp is perfectly ok? I.E. 66c coolant but 80-90c oil temp over 60kms.
Engine: 2jzge (built engine, stock crank, spool rods and cp pistons 10:1, ge 0.3mm headgasket, factory ge head (reconditioned) all in a mk3 supra chassis. Also running an ar5 manual gearbox.
Currently been running n/a (no boost) and on a g4x ecu.I've got a factory radiator and have put on ba Falcon twin thermo fans and shroud onto the radiator. I've done some foam on the shroud about 60% of it is foamed, so it's not too bad but definitely has some areas that are open.
I've also made a one piece metal undertray from the very front edge of the bumper, to the cross member. (Factory plastic ones were lost).
I have no external oil cooler and am using the factory coolant-oil cooler on the oil filter.
I've bought a new coolant temp sensor (Universal Bosch 0280130026) and installed in the factory place in the block( at the front of the engine underneath the intake lower front. Right before the outlet for the upper radiator hose.
I've got an oil temp/pressure sensor in the oil pedestal where the factory oil pressure dummy light is.
I have a new thermostat (tried two now, tridom and now a gates) at 82 degrees. Same issue. Also. I have a coolant swirl pot that is located, on the intake manifold (highest point) which gets water front the head of the engine (tees from the engine head to the heater core) and from the radiator (as it now has a blank plug) and "drains" into the lower radiator hose.
When I'm driving say over 60-70 KMs, the coolant temperature will warm up and stay at 66c, whole the oil temp will rise and get to 80-90 degrees and fluctuate.
In slower speeds or stopping at red lights or in traffic, the coolant temperature will start to rise and eventually get to 90c (where my first fan starts to turn on). Then it will go down as expected and continue to cycle.
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5 minutes ago, Adamw said:
APS and TPS can go to any spare analog inputs, you assign them in the e-throttle settings. The motor must use aux 9 & 10. The Clutch can use any spare aux, injector or ignition drive. Set the "e-throttle relay output" to whichever aux you wire to the clutch.
Awesome Will do. Good to know that the motor must use Aux 9 & 10. As per the help file, it mentions the Clutch needs a 12V Postive to a switched 12V. So can I just put that on any 12V and only have the ECU see the Clutch Negative (On any spare AUX).
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1 hour ago, Adamw said:
Yes the toyota clutched throttle works fine. Set up and wiiring info is in the help file: Wiring Information > Input Signal Wiring > Analog Inputs > Throttle/Accelerator Position Sensors > Specific TPS/APS Applications > Toyota Clutched Electronic Throttle
Its actually fully DBW, it only switches over to cable operation when the ecu puts it into limp mode (disables the clutch).
Oh that's even better that it works as full DBW. That is actually awesome. Obviously then, I'll leave my cable pedal and hook it up. That's another task that is much more simple.
So, I was looking at how to actually wire the 3x Plugs into the Engine Loom/ECU. The help main just mentions about clutch negative to native auxiliary channel. Clutch Positive to switch 12 V and other various settings.
It doesn't mention where to wire some of the other inputs.
I had a look at the Link Plugin ECU wiring diagrams to see if I could find another Toyota with this setup. The JZX90 and 100 didn't really have anything useful. The Altezza link had the below. So should I set it up similar to the below.
So, do I wire like the below? Maybe change some of the AUX/Analog volt channels, but the premises is the same.
Switched 12V E-Throttle Clutch + Aux 7 E-Throttle Clutch - Aux 9 E-Throttle Motor + Aux 10 E-Throttle Motor - Analog Volt 2 FPS SUB Analog Volt 3 FPS MAIN Analog Volt 5 TPS SUB Analog Volt 6 TPS Main 
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Hi Guys,
I'm putting a 2JZGE (NA from a IS300) into a MK3 Supra and am wanting to have a working DBW System in the car. I have a FuryX ECU (should be here next week or two).Going to a forward facing intake manifold causes a few other issues (Expensive, Remote reservoir for power steering and as I'm N/A will mean the intake filter will be quite long and have the filter in the bumper as the battery is on the intake side).
I'm have been planning on using the factory cross over intake and would like to know if it is possible to keep the factory Throttle Body / ETCS-i system. The system is quite odd as it's a half cable throttle (first 15% or so - I think), then DBW for the rest.
The main features of DBW that I want are, Idle and cruise control. I've seen other threads that suggest that the Link can control the DBW system, however it seems no one has asked online about whether or not these features (Idle and Cruise) can still work.
Furthermore, considering the how the DBW is implemented (Some Cable / Some DBW motor) is it really worth trying to save and setup, or should I just bite the bullet and get a standard DBW throttle body in the first place.
2JZGE VVTI 3576 - Very slow
in Engine Tuning
Posted
Hey mate, sorry for the late reply.
Yes. I definitely need to get to a dyno shortly to sort out timing / knock safely.
I've added some extra timing in and am running about 12degrees under full boost and man. It feels a lot faster and more responsive and I think there's a good bit less heat. I realised that the day I took the car to test out it was a 40 degree day and the temps were quite hot.
I've since made some more changes, oil cooler, new radiator and I've added some heat shielding around the intake/intercooler piping. Ive also driven on some "colder" i.e. 25 degrees and the car intake temps are much better. The intercooler I think is still a bit of restriction, the exhaust housing might be a little too small at 0.63a/r , as well as the intake sitting on the turbo blankent
After the roll racing event in 2 nights (Saturday) I'll put a set of bkr7e plugs in and getting it tuned on a dyno.
I'm much happier with the car now!