Robin

OK, so that gets kinda messy and complex. My original plan was to not worry about the run-down (just use a normal latch/reset circuit on the relay and a "Kill" signal to the ECU, which admittedly still involves running battery power to the switches). To handle the alternator dump, I can use a relay to dump everything into a 3ohm relay (like a mechanical isolator), but a tidier alternative seems to be a TVS diode. Seems to be what the OEM would use for this situation - presents a very high resistance up to a 'breakdown' voltage, where they go to almost zero resistance (IE, keep the alternator from producing a voltage spike by dumping it to earth) A couple of SLD16-018 would seem to be the correct thing - but I'd really appreciate any guidance.

Ah, whoops. Foolish. Yes, it should be linked on the other side (to Bat+) I'm using all the Ignition and Injector drivers, but why not use an Aux? The relay coil will certainly be less than 3A

Following on from an earlier post, I’ve got a G4x (Xtremex) coming for my track car. In the process of sorting out the wiring, but it occurred to me that should be able to control the “kill” relay. Basically, I want the ECU to hold the relay in unless there is a monetary break in a +12v signal – in which case it should kill the engine, and release the relay as soon as the RPM is low enough to minimise the risk of alternator-induced voltage spike. Appreciate any input… Apologies for the crude diagram attached, but broadly: Isolation relay shown kills the main power to everything from the battery. Momentary “On” button brings the relay to life, after which power flows to the ECU etc 12v is sent through 2x NC pushbuttons to a digital input (say, D1) – this input is always live unless a button is pressed (some logic) is set so a momentary break in this input is maintained ECU output (say, Aux1) is set to hold the relay in according to the logic block below. As soon as the output is released, the relay opens and power is cut to everything The logic controlling output Aux1 would look something like: Aux1 OFF if Killswitch AND RPM<100 Kill switch: Latch If D1 voltage goes below 10v for more than 0.1 seconds Shutdown process: If Killswitch Shutdown engine immediately.

Not currently - just for logging. I'm still using the GM LS1 ECU, but when I upgrade I'll certainly implement TC. If you get tripped up by anything, I might have archived some document or another.

Hi mate, Not sure if it's the same one, but attached is one I found somewhere else - might be enough to get you going. I also have a sheet from Motec with configuration info for different DBW throttle bodies, if you know what you're going to use. Assume the configuration info will also be usable for Link. Attached also some information about the MK60 CAN, if you don't already have? Disclaimer that I haven't used this, just archived it when I saw it. Pretty sure it came from https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1768248-Teves-Mk-60-as-stand-alone-ABS I ended up wiring the speed outputs from the MK60 directly to the digital inputs on the (motec) dash - works perfectly, but puts out 48 pulses/rev, so you need a fairly fast input. Also tapped the pressure output from the sensors to get F/R brake pressure. 971816740_LS3Labrat.pclx CAN Matrix Motorsport Bremse VW Audi english.docx Mk60e5_pinout.xlsx

Thanks for the extensive reply Adam, that's really helpful. The only outstanding question - is single-bank Lambda sufficient? That would be a great starting point, and I'd be interested in any other information about the build - is it written up anywhere? If you've got a wiring pinout from the car (or a even better, a diagram), that would be much appreciated, too. I probably don't have a shortage of inputs - the dash has 2x temp/4analog, and the PDM has another 16 analog. Most of them will be unused once the ECU is reporting engine parameters over CAN. So maybe the Fury (unless there are other drawbacks?) would be handy (to have Lambda on both banks, at least in the future) With the knock control - do you have any starting points on using the factory sensors for knock control? Thank you - it's mostly a thing to experiment with, the car's very controllable without it. Makes sense. Is it a simple blip, or does the ECU match the rpm based on the predicted gear and the ground speed? Sold. There are factory LS1/LS6 DBW arrangements, but they're a similar price to an 82mm bosch unit (albeit without the fabrication). Ahhh, the wheel speeds (and front/rear brake pressure) are available on CAN from the Motec dash (IE, I will configure output messages). The MK60 unit does output wheel speed on CAN, but requires a 'black box' to clear the error messages first (I believe). If you've got any more info on this, I'm all ears! I assume the CAN in the ECU is fully configurable in terms of being able to define custom receive/transmit channels and assign them to variables?

Hi, and apologies in advance for the long post – I’ve tried to condense my questions into one post. I’ve got an LS1 powered Silvia as a track/hillclimb car – I’ve been running it for a few years and upgrading various things in the process. I’ve recently started on the various electrical and logging systems – so far I’ve installed and configured: · MK60 ABS system · ECUmaster PMU16 · Motec CDL3 dash (with a Motec SLM and GPS) · Motec Lambda-to-CAN (single channel) · CAN Checked MCE18 (CAN input module) I’ve left the ECU to last, mostly because it works OK with the factory ECU and I’ve been able to do the rest without missing any events. I’m leaning towards a G4x (probably an XtremeX?) – the other option is Motec, but (price aside), it seems like Link have a much more open and helpful culture. Features like launch control and traction control are one of the key reasons, as well as being able to communicate over CAN with the rest of the hardware – it’s frustrating not having access to a lot of the ECU data. I’m also having irritating drivability issues with the OEM ECU, particularly around idle and pit-speed driving (which can probably be solved with tuning, but it’s frustrating not being able to adjust things myself) So, preliminary questions: · Is there significant advantage with sequential ignition, or should I consider a FuryX with the built-in Lambda? · Does anyone have a start-up or base map for an LS1? The engine is mostly stock except for a VCM710 cam, LS7 lifters and some general cleanup and porting (with a bit of extra compression) · Flat-shift/rev-matching (with a T56 H-pattern) – I’ve read a couple of posts on the Link forum – is there an established method to get nice results with only brake/clutch inputs, or does it really need gear-position sensors to work properly? · Traction/launch control – how fiddly are these to implement? Is there a base set of parameters that works reasonably well? For hardware, I’d appreciate some feedback on the below: · Is it worth changing from a cable throttle to DBW? I like the apparent simplicity, and it seems like the smoothest way to implement TC/Launch control/Idle. If so, is an 82mm Bosch motorsport unit/bosch pedal the right choice? · Knock sensors – any advantage to fitting Bosch motorsport sensors instead of the OEM LS1 units? · Injectors – Is it worth upgrading to a more modern unit? · Lambda – I’ve got the left bank with the Motec unit, is this sufficient/acceptable for closed-loop tuning? · Temp/pressure – I was intending to monitor fuel, coolant and oil with bosch combined pressure/temp units – seem reasonable? · Wheel speed – I have 4-wheel speed into the dash at the moment (output as a 5v squarewave by the ABS unit. 48pulses/rev) – I can transmit over CAN, or send the input straight to the ECU? I’ll retain the OEM sensors/parts for the below, unless they should be changed? · MAP sensor · Intake temp sensor · Crank/cam position · Coils Cheers, -Robin