domestos75

What model ecu is it mate? Also is it a G4 or G4+? Depending on the model, you can run sequential ignition if the ecu has 6 ignition outputs. You crank and cam sensor signal wires will go the the sync and ref pins in the ecu. The voltage required for these sensors will come from the ecu but not sure what these sensors require ie if it's 8V or 5V. Ground wires for these sensors will go the the sensor grounds on the ecu(don't confuse these with ecu grounds). Lots of info in the help file on how to wire these sensors. Your coils will need a switched 12V supply (probably best to run it off a relay-check help file for examples) and I think the grounds can be bolted somewhere on the engine block. Are you installing a pre-made R35 COP kit?

*UPDATE Started the car from cold and was watching the log as it was warming up. I blipped the throttle to try and induce the dwell to spike but I was only seeing small spikes of around .1ms. As the engine warmed up, the spikes got bigger- around .5-1.0ms. Changed the trigger 1 filtering to "2" and there was only small spikes of around .1ms. Changed the filtering to "3" and same result happened. Below are the logs for each of the filtering settings and I also did another trigger scope at filtering set to "2". Hopefully somebody can explain what has been happening all this time. Cheers! dwell log trigger 1 filter set to 2.llg dwell log trigger 1 filter set to 3.llg Trigger Scope Log trigger 1 filter set to 2.llg

This install I've had for almost 2 years but I've never checked the dwell as I just assumed it would be fine since everything fired up once we got the timing right. I was running a Motec M4 with an ignition expander so I could do the coil swap but because it's a dinosaur of an ecu, it had no capability that modern ECUs have today. Fast forward to this problem, what prompted me to check and log the dwell was because I decided to check my voltage values as sometimes my idle would go funny and then go normal once I'd blip the throttle. On start up my voltage would drop to 9.5-10V and whilst logging I would noticed a stable voltage of 11-12 sometimes. Since my dwell table is dependant on voltage, I didn't want to be running high dwell times which would lead to my coils burning out. I have checked the AEM 24-1 trigger disc and it seems perfectly clean and there is very little play when I try to turn the disc. I tried attaching a short video of me checking the trigger disc but the size of the file was too big but I did attach it to the Link Facebook page that that you commented on the other day. One thing I did notice that MIGHT potentially be an issue is my wiring for the sensor grounds and shield grounds. So the sensor ground for the distributor/CAS is connected to the sensor grounds for the MAP and TPS sensors and this goes to pin #24 on the 'A' plug of the Thunder ecu. The shield grounds for the distributor/CAS wiring and TPS are connected together and these go to the shield ground pin #7 on the 'A' plug. Would the way I have wired the sensor and shield grounds cause the issue that we're seeing? The trigger 1 filtering is currently set to low. I'll try the medium filtering level tomorrow night after I finish work and see how it goes.

Trigger 1 -Pullup - ON -Trig edge - Rising -Multi tooth posn - Cam -tooth count - 24 Trigger 2 -Pullup - ON -Trigger edge- Rising -sync mode - Cam pulse 1x

Hi Adam, Attached are the trigger scopes at 2300,2400,2500 rpm. I hope they are what you're after. I've added another quick log too. Trigger Scope Log 2022-08-17 2300rpm.llg Trigger Scope Log 2022-08-17 2400rpm.llg Trigger Scope Log 2022-08-17 2500rpm.llg voltage and dwell drop.llg

Hi all, Currently having an issue where the dwell time for the coils becomes erratic. It usually happens when I back off the throttle and it also coincides with the tacho needle fluttering a little bit and also the battery voltage shows the same spikes at the same time. I've taken a pic of the issue and you can see what's happening quite clearly. Just wondering if anyone has had this issue before and what could be causing it. Could it be the regulator in the alternator starting to die out or is it a wiring issue? I am running NGK U5014 coils and the 2 grounds are wired as such: - one set of grounds runs to a tab on the distributor housing that's bolted to the block. - the other set of grounds runs into the cabin and bolted to the chassis ground which is also where the ecu is grounded to. My car is a '92 Nissan Pulsar GTiR. I've received some helpful replies and help from the Link Ecu Facebook community which I will attempt tomorrow to see if it fixes the issue but I've mainly posted this so I can attach the log for people to view in the hopes that it helps a bit more. Cheers! long drive.llg