Alan.K

Great explanation. Thanks for taking the time to write that down. I'm really pleased with how the engine is running currently. I'll keep driving it and see if any minor glitches appear, but unless you have any other suggestions, I think the tune is pretty much done.

I watched a video of a guy tuning with knock on the dyno. He set up a Time Plot of Knock Threshold (I think it was) and then scaled it so the engine background noise was about half the vertical axis of the plot. Is that what you mean by the knock control system being "set up and tuned"? Or is it something that requires tools/skills beyond my resources?

Thanks Adam. Following your tips I've got the Accel functions working great. Throttle response is more snappy and no more lean bog when cold. The only thing left on my tuning agenda is timing. The engine feels like it could take a little more timing for peak power. The ECU is wired to one of the stock knock sensors. Is the stock sensor reliable/sensitive enough to watch a time plot of the engine noise/knock and adjust timing based on that?

Adam, thanks for the map and the suggestions. I've been getting the fuel map dialed in over the last few days and it's about 98% perfect. Unless you suggest otherwise, I would like to work on the Accel Enrichment next. Would you recommend using MAP or TPS? I assume both would work equally well on my engine, but maybe one is easier to configure? Also, can you suggest any base or typical range values to start with (deadband/decay/sensitivity/cold correction etc)? I'm running a single O2 sensor at the merge between the two exhaust banks. It's exactly 120mm/47" from the nearest exhaust port (#7).

I have a first generation, non-VVTI 1UZ-FE running with a Link Atom G4X and coil on plug. The shop that supplied the Atom and wire harness sent me a setup configured for boost. I'm running N/A. That shop is no longer responding to my emails, so I'm hoping the experts here will chime in with some suggestions. I've reconfigured the wire harness and tune to get my engine running. Initially it was so rich it fouled the plugs. I turned the master fuel down from 15 to 11ms and it's much better now. It starts, idles and I've taken it out for a short gentle drive. I have the base timing checked/set, cooling fan configured, tach set up, ISCV solenoid set up, TPS calibrated, and I'm getting good readings from the IAT, ECT, and CAN-Lambda. My question is: Should I start tuning with the fuel and ignition maps that I was provided? I believe they are for a boosted engine. Or would I be better off copying in a known good N/A base map and starting from there? If the latter, any suggestions where to procure some good base maps? (did I read there is a 1UZ base file lurking in the software somewhere?) I'm happy to share some files of my current setup, if someone would be so gracious as to look them over. (note: I have not tuned a standalone in 20 years, and never used a Link before, so consider me a dummy until proven otherwise)

Capacitor install worked! I've got live AFR's. Thanks all for the help.

12awg from battery to relay in the kick panel. 20awg from relay to Deutsch connector (about 250mm long). Link 101-0214 2m CAN extension cable to CAN-Lambda module. Based on your comment, I'm wondering if I should delete the CAN extension (its about 1m longer than it needs to be), move the Lambda module to the kick panel near the relay, and utilize an O2 sensor extension from the module. Thoughts?

The power is supplied direct from the battery via relay. So it would have to be a noise issue. I will order the capacitor, #20 Deutsch pins and pray to the gods.

Adam, thanks for the info. Following your instructions, Lambda 1 is now set to Link CAN. Watching the runtimes screen/ECU Status/Lambda 1... things start out OK then appear to fail. Lambda 1 status reads Calibrating and Heating, but never makes it to Operating. Lambda 1 Error reads "16 Heated Too Long", and occasionally flickers "33 Open Circuit RE-IPE" , "34 Open Circuit APE-IPE" I am seeing a temperature reading and assume it is correct. I never get an AFR reading. It reads a constant 0.00 The engine was run up to full operating temp by letting it idle for about 5 minutes, then holding the RPM's at 2000 for a couple minutes. Do you know what the fix may be for this situation?

I have just installed the CAN-Lambda module on my Atom G4X. Following the setup instructions (section 3.4) I'm at the final step (#13) where it says to "Cycle the power to the module" which I have done by unplugging/replugging the Deutsch connector. Should I get some kind of indication of success or completion on my laptop screen? Nothing happens, so I'm not sure if I have actually set up the module or not. If this is normal, and my setup is complete, could someone instruct me on the steps through the menus to turn on the module/sensor and see a live reading of AFR's while the engine is running? [Engine is a first gen, non-VVTI 1UZ-FE with coil on plug that starts and runs, but needs final tuning]