AGalecki

Thank you for all the assistance. I selected Lambda 1 in the tuning parameters and set that on the gauge on the second page. Doesn't explain the gauge now working in my head, but the gauge and the tuning log are showing AFRs. Lambda and AFR both are working on the gauge on separate gauge screens.

Okay, I think I understand it a little more now. There is no device to register in CAN2. I am just pulling ECU data from it. I set battery voltage, coolant temperatures, and air temp into the gauge and they are reading appropriately. I also added Lambda 1 to the tuning and will see if it pulls it up. Still not sure why AFR is not working on the gauge. It seems like I have it selected incorrectly and somehow need to set it... the battery and temp data popped up no problem and instantly after programming. I set one of the gauge screens to Lambda 1 and will attempt to see if that works, since the AFR is not. I now see what you're talking about with the U key (I was selecting the Lambda and hitting U, I believe that was the issue) I now see the units in the options and imperial was selected, but it is still reading Lambda. Should I change the metric units to the imperial AFR to get AFR, if that is what I want it to read?

Unfortunately the tuner I am using doesn't seem super familiar with the Link platform. He's tuned a lot of Link, but the interface to the devices doesn't seem super great. Can you screenshot where it is showing and how to select the lambda in the logging and toggle the type of unit displayed? He wasn't seeing it when we were trying to get the AFR to show. The AFR average was just showing 0.0. I followed the steps in the provided instruction manual for wiring. I have the gauge plugged into CAN 2 and used the plug play deaustch connectors just like I did in CAN 1. Didnt want to mess with the wiring and even purchased the CAN plugs from Link. SKU: Link101-0197 They are plugged into: CAN 1 to the CAN lambda controller / Link wideband sensor CAN 2 to the gaugd's deaustch connector Only thing I did wiring wise was wire ground/power and they're on the same ground/ power source. The gauge comes on, but no CAN devices show in the CAN 2 devices page. The big difference noticed is the paper directions say set the ID to 56 and the ECU directions say 950. Gauge is set to AFR and accepted the programming with Link selected as the ECU. In logging, hitting U just changes the PSI to KPA. The Lambda Avg on the right never changes. Just reads 0.0 AFR.

Yes, when you said that the gauge and the CAN/lambda controller can be run as connected, I adjusted some stuff to try and get it functional without the deaustch splitter. Neither Lambda or the gauge are giving readings still. As previously set, the gauge was never going to work because it was in can 2 and not selected properly. The lambda should have shown in logging but wasn't and still isn't. Not sure what the issue is... I was unable to see the Lambda reading anywhere. I can play with it, but are you able to walk me through selecting the CAN 2 for the gauge? Or is it correct in the map currently? It is not reading as currently set. How do I get the lambda (more specifically maybe, the AFR) to show in the logging? It was not showing any data, even though the ECU is seeing it. AFR reads 0.0. Is the wrong thing selected to log? Also, would like to confirm that the lambda reading will equate to AFR in logging? Not just a lambda value of 0.x or 1.x?

Here it is. The ECU is not logging and the gauge is not putting out a reading, but it is showing in the ECU. Hopefully just needs to be input a little different because it is in two CAN connections. Edited tune - Base map Mitsubishi EVO 7-8 7Bar PCB V1.5+ G4X Xtreme Plugin.pclx

Interesting. Do you happen to know why it is not communicating? Each have a plug and play deutsch connector and have power. Gauge lights up, but nothing is communicating to the ECU.

I believe I found the issue. Looks like I need a can Splitter Part: LINK-101-0212 This will allow me to see the AFR on the gauge and the ECU? Why was I not able to see the AFR when logging through the ECU? Do you always need the splitter, even to see it when logging on the ECU?

I think I know what I did wrong. I have two separate Deutsche connectors and I need to Y them instead. Both the gauge and the CAN/Lambda controller go to one CAN low/high?

Hello, I cannot get my CAN gauge to read. I followed the instructions in the manual. It is wired to CAN1/RS232 It has power and ground and powers up. CAN low/high is matched. Followed the instructions to program and selected link in the app. Then selected the CAN Stream configurations in the manual and applied to the ECU. It is still reading 0.0. Not sure what to troubleshoot?

Hello, My search skills are failing me. Can someone link what the can bus integration is capable of with a G4x? I've read a thread that makes it seem like it can make the ECU target AFRs and essentially auto adjust the fueling under regular driving conditions. If it is capable of this, is it possible that it can be normally driven to a professional tuner to finish ? The ECU basically will do the "base map" to be functional? Otherwise, is the can bus integration just for logging and the gauges?

Thank you. Read it but didn't know what it meant. Got them switched and now the AC test does what the fuel pump test did and the pump flows when tested.

Hello, My evo 8 is not receiving fuel from the main pump and the car will not run. It cranks but then nothing. I have switched and replaced the pumps with brand new fuel pumps and the car will run if I activate my secondary pump but the ECU seems to not be powering the main fuel pump. If I activate the secondary pump, it will turn over and run. The second I turn the secondary pump off, the car dies. The main pump is run through the stock wiring and the secondary pump is fused power off the battery with a boost activate relay switch, completely separate from the ECU. Did not have issues before the ECU swap. Maybe its just confused with a simple "high" to "low" active state? When I attempt to activate the pump through the ECU using the "Injector 5 Fuel Pump Relay Outlet" there is a click that I can hear towards the front of the car but nothing happens with the pump. Here is how the "Fuel Pump Control is configured. I have also attached the tune file. If something else needs to be looked at that I am unaware of. dardanremote.pclx

No alarm or immobilizer, have a boost activated Hobbs switch for secondary pump but, otherwise nothing else. Boost activated secondary fuel pump is just fuse connected direct to battery.

How would I track this down? It is stock wiring and odd that it would stop immediately after I turned the logging off.

Thank you, The ECU was left in logging mode and it somehow kept the ECU and TB powered up with the key out.

Hello, My DBW TB motor is non stop running. Even with key out of the ignition. Finally did a first start up and the tuner put in the TPS table numbers so the ECU would read throttle from 5% at idle to 100% full throttle. Then we had an unrelated issue that stopped the session. Bad fuel pump prevented start up. So I replaced the pump and car starts and idles. Weird thing is that now the DBW motor is constantly running. Even with key out of the ignition. Won't turn off. Is this part of the "run when stalled" or does something else need to be adjusted?

Thank you, didn't realize it was an executable function. I manually put in the values based off the AN Voltages in the lower screen/F12 screen view.

I was able to locate and use the TPS calibration. May I have a screenshot on where to find the APS calibration button?

If the Humm is normal, I believe it is set properly, I was just concerned because it says the throttle body can over open or close causing damage. For the APS I matched the AN volt outputs for the main and sub when no throttle and then when full throttle. So they match the voltages found in the F12 menu exactly.

Thank you. This got it working and after reading your guide and then the Help, it does make sense. I had no idea that the error values had to be manually put in. Figured it would automatically set when it calibrated, off of the calibrated values. The help section assisted with adjusting the H-Bridge polarity reversal as well since it needed to be set from Low to High which fixed a calibration error. Now to get the right APS fault voltages, it is best to set them just below/above the ranges seen on the AN volt readings? It was just easier for TPS since it shows right in the window. The help section just says to set them and appears that the Analog window is the best place to get the values. Is there something wrong when there is a light humm from the Throttle body when it is powered on? For the APS, I matched the Main and Sub to the voltages on the matching AN voltages, is it over closing and being damaged?

Switching the fan settings worked and they turned off. I assigned what I thought was correct for the APS/TPS but it's not cooperating. It is giving an AN Volt 7 High error, TPS Sub error, and APS Main error. I thought the TPS main was AN Volt 6 and TPS Sub AN Volt 7 with APS Main AN Volt 9 and APS Sub AN volt 10 - still getting the errors above and says Sub Fault when I attempt calibration.

So the temp sensor was bad and after replacement, gives no errors. The fans still run continuously, not sure what is up with that. Trying to figure out the Ethrottle, when I set the PWM to Aux9&10 it takes it off of the Ethrottle relay. When I attempt to put Ethrottle Relay, it takes it from the PWM. How should the Ethrottle be set? The directions in the ECU say that the PWM should be on Aux 9&10 I am unable to locate the TPS Sub to set the AN Volt to it. Here is how it is plugged into the ECU. Do I set it to a CAN vs an AN volt? The help says that setting the APS is too advanced for it. Ethrottle wiring.jfif

I appreciate the detailed, comprehensive assistance. I misspoke, it is in the "ON" position that the fans/ECU come on. Could the fan issue be related to this? Not sure what to change in the software if it is the case. "EVOLink (IV-VIII) On some models the Fuel pump output and A/C clutch output are in opposite positions. Your configuration will need to be modified if this is the case." It appears the sensor is bad. No change when I attempt to ohm the sensor pins. The Link software goes to 0.02 when I short the MAF pins together as directed and the wiring harness tones out to the plug, so that should be good to go when I get the new sensor.

The ECU is powered on and connected via the USB to laptop and reading. 4 plug Lancer Evolution 8. I am trying to get everything reading before I actually turn the motor over. Yes, photos attached. That is the MAF OEM plug with an aftermarket harness to the IAT. I will assign those for the E throttle.

It's a 2003 Lancer Evolution 8. No idea what the hedgehog is and Google didn't give any insight either. Yeah, the Ethrottle is lower priority but put it up there for insight since I'm asking questions already. I'll have to try and reset the codes. Which help section? In the ECU menu or online? I see you can hit F1 now and it will bring you to a help section. Been trying to read through the ECU information that appears on the upper right but it has been minimally helpful.