Ryno
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Posts posted by Ryno
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Thanks for the tips everyone. I will have to look into the different fueling modes. I don't plan to spin the engine over 7k RPM so I set the 7200 column to zero as a backstop. Maybe it is better to do this on the ignition table? Open to ideas.
Am I correct in that I should be tuning the fuel table with functions like CLL IAT correction (basically any fuel adjustments) turned off?
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21 minutes ago, Rossobianconero said:
Don't worry about the dyno, you can make a really good fuel table on the road, is just more time consuming. I will just tune it "old" school, just get someone to drive the car for you and you tune the fuel table. Are you going to run knock control? and what boost control are you going to run?
Boost control is set manually as of now. I have not messed around with the knock monitoring in the link settings. Outside elements when driving make it difficult to keep the engine in a complete cell so Ive tried to let the mixture map sample while I focus on the road. These engines are knock limited but most issues are reported over 18psi depending on supporting systems ect.
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Anyone willing to take a look at what I've got and see if there are any obvious issues with my street tuning so far? I got the engine running well for the most part @ 7psi. Goal is to run 1bar later on once I get my current boost tune working correctly. I am using the mixture map to help me get the VE table properly tuned. I have been logging my daily commutes to work and back. I notice my AFR targets are not quite in line on the logs. Is there a better way to dial this in? The mixture map will make changes and the results get me a choppy looking table when viewed in 3d. Is this normal?
I don't have access to a dyno at the moment so I am trying make the car safe and useable until I can get a proper tune.
Does my master fuel and VE table percentages look to be scaled correctly?
Attached is my current tune and a log from this morning.
Thanks guys.
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Searching around and couldn't find any answers so figured someone in here would know.
I want to output the IAT signal from my ECU to a gauge inside the cab. Is this possible to do via one of the expansion loom channels?
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Made some more adjustments and this is what Ive got. Undershoots and stalls...
Any help appreciated.
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^ Thank you for the explanation and the screenshot. I will make adjustments. As for MAP Lockout I assume this setting here needs to be increased.
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On 8/31/2023 at 6:12 AM, Adamw said:
Change your RPM lockout above target to 500RPM. With it at 1200 your dash pot is kicking in and will be all finished before it is anywhere near idle.
Changed to 500 and it made the undershoot worse.
On 8/31/2023 at 2:53 AM, essb00 said:Try to load this one and try to do the same tests and logging.
The undershoot did not change with these settings
Here is a new log
Thinking I could have an issue mechanically with the car causing this but the engine ran perfect on stock DME..
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Spent about two hours adjusting my settings and I am still have issues with undershoot. After a road test of normal driving the engine did stall again. Adjusting the dashpot settings individually I can see where they change the idle entry. My main issues now is no matter what settings I test I always end up with under shoot. A slight blip to the throttle will rev up and enter idle smoothly but if I rev up to maybe 4500 or closer to redline the idle entry will always under shoot (deeper undershoot) even if the same settings don't under shoot on lower engine speed revs.
1. I feel I am not fully understanding the procedure to tune this feature correctly. Do I tune min clap first then move onto dash pot and decay? Is the min clamp even set correctly as is...? Not sure if the order matters.
2. No matter what settings for dashpot or idle settings I set the engine always under shoots to a small degree. Should a properly tuned idle entry not under shoot at all? Is it ok to have a bit of under shoot as long as the car doesnt stall? Ive ran dashpot up to 20% or so and I can clearly tell it's too high of a setting (revs bounce off idle base position then settle depending on my hold and decay time. What is a normal dash pot setting for this engine?
Attached is my current tune, a log example and a screen shot showing the idle entry and undershoot (pink line).
Alot going on in this post. Just wanted to get it all out there as this is the main feature I cannot figure out and it seems to be very inconsistent when adjustments are made.
Any help appreciated. Thanks to those who have contributed so far.
* Note some settings related to idle adjustment may be different in the tune and in the log as I have been changing dash pot and idle base to try and find a happy place where the engine operates correct.
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I did update the cranking enrichment and WU enrichment settings this morning to correct lean stumble on start up and long crank@ lower temps. Dash pot I also adjusted as stated above. The idle seems to under shoot less but cannot confirm fix as I have not road tested yet. Ill post a new log if the engine stalls again...
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Here is the complete tune.
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Wondering if someone could take a look at my log file and give me some advice... Apparently still chasing the same issue where the engine will stall out (only when its hotter. it seems engine will not stall driving to work in the AM)
I raised my idle set point to 43 from 37 to try and get the issue to correct but still same results. Could there be something else wrong here that I am missing?
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^ Setting correct Min clamp fixed the stall issue. Thank you for your help Kris!!!
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Ok so min and max clamp settings here.
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Adam,
Sent you a PM last night with details. I am still trying to sort out an engine stall on decel.
Quick summary of where I am at as of now.
1. Idle base settings from 33 to 41 tested.
2. Dashpot hold/decay and offset tested from 0 to 10.
3 Stalling occurring (more when engine is fully warmed up). Example: Engine is coasting in gear coming to a stop 1500 to 1300 engine speed. Clutch depressed to shift out of gear into neutral. Engine immediately stalls.
4. Log shows idle dropping below target when throttle is blipped.
5. Speedlock out turned off (idle was raising to 1400 ish when car was moving at slow speeds)
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log deleted
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Also still getting this as a result when revving the engine over 3k or so it seems. Engine will not return to idle. Stalls instantly. Adjusting idle base position seems to not have helped after all. The second log show the ECU almost lets the engine die. Battery light comes on just for a split second then recovers.
Sorry to be a pest guys. Im coming from MS1 and MS2 tuning software. I chose link because its a very powerful ECU that is tunable to be as reliable as my stock ecu. Lots of layers to learn...
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Correct me if I am wrong but I am guessing this has to do with speed lockout settings? The engine will idle up and surge but only when the car is moving. If the car is not moving the idle will stabilize within a second or two. In neutral (obviously) this will occur when coasting to a stoplight ect...
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Update. Fuel and idle settings have corrected the engine stalling at stops/ coming off rev but now there is a new issue I am trying to correct. Are the idle base position table values of 33 and 5% dashpot offset value causing my idle to now be about 1100 or so at full running temp? This is happening now when driving. Idle base position values are a percentage of the idle control valve open (if I am understanding correctly) so reducing this number will slow the idle down to a more acceptable sub 1k range?
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On 5/21/2023 at 7:14 PM, Adamw said:
Your log still shows no accel enrichment and overrun fuel cut is still active, so it doesnt look like you followed these instructions.
You will also need to adjust your idle base position to match the new target RPM and the rest of the stall issue I would say just needs the dashpot function tuned.
Updated all the settings and the engine is no longer stalling. Thank you for your help and patience!
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1 hour ago, Adamw said:
Your log still shows no accel enrichment and overrun fuel cut is still active, so it doesnt look like you followed these instructions.
You will also need to adjust your idle base position to match the new target RPM and the rest of the stall issue I would say just needs the dashpot function tuned.
Completely missed the overrun fuel cut setting/ accel enrichment. Must of got confused. Thank you for the clarification.
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Made a few tweaks and it seems to be getting better now. Engine speed will still fall into the 3-400 range off rev. Stumbles for a second then returns to stable idle...
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I made the recommended adjustments. Engine is still stalling. Here is a new log rev to 4k. From what I can tell as soon as the engine speed gets close to idle right before stalling it leans out. My AFR will go from 12-13 to 19-20. Adding fuel to the VE table from 0 to 500 engine speed has no noticable effect.
Let me know what you guys think.
*edit Also adjusted the target idle speed table to 800 rpm. TPS is calibrated showing zero at closed.
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Thanks Adam. Testing your settings this morning.
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Need some schooling on my recent Turbo E34 (m50TU) project. This is my first build using a link ecu.
I have the car up and running on 5psi. I have worked from the base map to get the car driving but I cannot get this consistent engine stalling to correct. I found a previous thread (linked below) addressing the same issue but the windows to make the adjustments discussed are nowhere to be found on my software. Maybe I am looking in the wrong places... I ran a log file of a warm start up and rev to 3k. Once throttle is let off engine will fall below idle and stall. Occasionally the engine will recover and not die but it is rare.
Can someone take a look at my files and point me in the right direction. Any and all advice would be appreciated. Also point out any other issues that are possibly in my tune... again I am new to link tuning software. Looking forward to learning more!
E36 dying after warmed up and reving - G4+ - Link Engine Management Forums (linkecu.com)
M5X Pnp Road Tuning
in G4x
Posted
I am not setup with fuel pressure or fuel temp sensors so I suppose I will have to stay with traditional fueling.