OnegreatGuy

The disconnecting happens under constant load, I've been trying to hold a cell for autotune to get in the ballpark. This has been at 1500 - 3000 rpm, there is not much difference between the two in terms of disconnecting. The ignition coil, spark plugs and distributor (main assembly, rotor, and cap) are brand new and the leads are well within spec. I believe the Ignition coil is grounded using the same ground location as the ecu, which I think may cause some issues, but my knowledge of electrical interference is very low. I will make sure that I check my ignition coil to make sure it is in spec, though, and I will turn off the idle ign control to see if that helps. I am unfamiliar with an ignition suppressor, I can't find a reference to them in my electrical manual. Is it integrated into the ignition coil, or is it a separate unit? Also, what is my best way to make sure that I don't have any rotor phasing? Thanks in advance!

Yes, it is still running the stock distributor. I am not coil on plug yet. I've also tried installing pclink on a different laptop, which resulted in the same issues.

Hey all, I am starting to work on road tuning my 1991 toyota mr2 turbo with the Link g4x plug and play ECU. I have had issues with the ecu disconnecting from PCLink, and chalked it up to bad grounds. However, I have gone through and sanded down all ground contacts and have ensured that they make good connections, as well as making sure all of them are in place. I have also routed the USB cable away from the ignition coil as much as possible, but I have to use a USB extension cable to reach the chassis. I am able get the ecu to connect to the laptop easily, but while driving it will disconnect itself after 5 minutes. This is annoying, but the real issue is that when I try to use the autotune feature to get in the ballpark of where I want my fuel map to be, pclink crashes and goes unresponsive after maybe 30 seconds, and it frequently freezes even if it doesn't crash. It seems to bring itself back if I unplug and replug the USB cable connected to the ECU. Any help fixing this would be greatly appreciated, as I am unsure what more I can do.

Hello all, I would like to set up knock control with my MR2. I've been advised that the OEM knock sensor is close to garbage, and that I'd be better off switching to a flat response knock sensor, specifically a Bosch one. I'm curious if the mr2 PNP ecu is compatible with one of these sensors, and then what specific Bosch sensor I should get. The OEM knock sensor has a thread of M12x1.5, and a mounting surface of approximately 24mm in diameter. Thanks in advance!