art leong

If it helps. I use a lineloc on my front brakes to stage the car I have a button that when I press it, it activates the lineloc and the two step (launch control) function in the Vi-Pec. I roll into the staging beams press down hard on the brake pedal (1500 pounds) then press the button and release the brake pedal. When the tree (statring lights) come down I floor the gas pedal. I have the 2 step set to hold the motor at 3000 rpms. as soon as I see the last amber light. I let go of the button. The car launches fine and I'm able to cut a decent light. I would not try to use relays etc. If one were to stick or malfunction it could stop the fluid from getting to the brakes or hold pressure on them.

Can I use any of the Ipads or touch screen note pads to tune and read data logs? One of my laptops just died and I don't know what I'm going to replace it with.

Thanks I'm running a 2.4 ltr. Dodge, 4 cylinder. Naturally aspirated, no nitrous. Four 52 mm throtlle bodies. Cams are .492 lift (at valve) 298 degrees duration @ .006, 256 @.050. Compression ratio is 13.5 to 1 Ported head, 1 3/4" open header. So far rpm range is I leave the line at 3,000 shift at 7300 (3 speed automatic trans) go thru the finish line at 7400 (in ideal air conditions) The car is 2,600 pounds (with driver) front wheel drive 3.90 final drive ratio. 8" wide drag slicks 20" tall. VP C12 race gas. The runs in NHRA Superstock G modified stock (SS/GS) I'm running sequential fuel injection, and 4 GM LS1 coil over plugs. Best elapsed time so far is 12.65 @ 108.59 mph I'm unable to get an 02 reading at lower rpms, because of the position of the sensor (near the end of the collector). If I change the map axis to tps do I have to change any other numbers?

When I idle around the pits. My map signal bounces like mad it goes from 70 to 80 kpa's with the tps at zero. My plugs seem to load up bad from driving around and idling. euWhen I make a run (1/4 mile drag) I have seen a great improvement in my elapsed time by bring the motor up to 7500 rpms in nuetral and holding it there for about 20 seconds. To clean the spark plugs. Then stage the car and make the run. I'm using a retracted tip spark plug. Which I've been told tends to foul easier. I used these plugs for clearance spark plug to piston. I'm going to put a set of projected plugs in using washers to move the plug away from the piston. This may solve my problem. But if it does not. Can I change the axis on the fuel map from Map to TPS? What are the plus's and minus's of this? When I'm racing I'm basicly at 100% tps from when I stage to the end of the track.

Hoping to meet you guys in person at the PRI show in Orlando Fl. I've got a race in Gainesville Fl the same days. So I'm going to run the car on Thursday, go to the PRI on Friday and race on Saturday.

Thanks a million Dave. Thats what I needed to know. I won't be able to do anything today. (I've got it running somewhat won first round, and I don't want to mess with it here) But when i get home I put a dial indicator on it and get tdc. Then set it up at zero. I was trying to do that with my timing light at 20. I hope I didn't hurt my new (moly faced) rings by having it all messed up. Probably way to much timing, but I don't have a turbo so it might be more forgiving. One more thing is that I'm running a cam position sensor, and a crank pickup. The way the instructions read was to do that first, then manually adjust the trigger wheel second. I thought I needed need to set both? thanks again.

I'm having trouble. Understanding the trigger calibration. I open the set base timing window. Put a number in the lock ignition box (20 degrees) I set my advance timing light to 20 degrees. Then adjusted the offset number to get the marks on the cams to line up. This part I got. I've changed cams a few times and had to recalibrate the cam position sensor. The next part is throwing me a loop (maybe I'm stuck on stupid) I'm using a 20 tooth crank trigger wheel. I am not running degreed balancer. I'm just running an aluminum pulley off the crank there is no keyway just a tight fit.. I'm using the cam timings marks (twin cam) to tell when I'm at TDC firing (actually when my timing marks line up it is exactly 5 crankshaft degrees ATDC) This I check when the engine was on an engine stand. I can adjust the trigger wheel. I'm using a reluctor pickup. And it's setup for a falling signal. I've run this setup for three years (someone set it up for me he is no longer in my area). I'm not sure how to set my timing light. Then manually adjust the trigger wheel. I'm at a race right now so if anyone can give me some advice I really need it. When I eyeball the trigger wheel adjustment To line it up with the back side of the reluctor pickup it goes up the track popping and banging. I know I'm doing something wrong. The car has run for years. I just rebuilt the motor. And had to take the pulley/trigger wheel off. Is 20 degrees to much? with my 20 tooth trigger wheel eack tooth is 18 degrees apart. HELP.