lesgrandepotato

Hi, and thanks for all the great insight I’ve received so far. I’m thinking about adding a Can Lambda to my atom x on a Suzuki g13b DOHC in a trials samurai. It’s used for trials and I want to get the map utterly dialled on low speed throttle applications to give me the best control. I’m planning on the cam lambda as a later addition post mapping with a local link dealer. Is this wise? Or should I dive in now? Will I get a better outcome being able to run closed loop?

Thanks Adam, it’s a Suzuki swift gti g13b DOHC in a Suzuki samurai. I’ve wired the injectors to seperate circuits instead of a single group. I think this means I may have an impedance problem. I’ve checked and the injectors are 2.2ohm. This seems too low? I’ve ordered some ballast resistors to get it back towards 8ohm as I think they would have seen in the original install. Map is broadly as attached. It’s moved on a bit. Temp sensor now mapped in and thresholds on the reluctor. Under crank they all go green though. I’m not getting much fuel smell tho which has be curious SamuraiGTI.pclx

I’ve got it cranking, I’ve got sparks and fuel and it’s coughing and spluttering. Timing at 10deg. Engine is cold (no cooling system installed yet) On a carb I’d give it a couple if throttle stabs and coax it… whats the same process for an ecu? So so close! I just need to hear it run!

Thanks to @Adamw @essb00 and @koracing I’m a happy bunny even if it’s going to be the weekend before I can play with it again.

Ok! Progress is made. Improved earth circuits and a better set up on the 12v rail and we are in business! Didn’t get it running, but it’s giving a cough here and there. Need to get the fuel pump to well pump fuel and we should be good for an initial fire up.

Interesting insights on the voltages… it’s a Swift GTI mk1/2 engine g13b from about 1994. It had a 12 tooth very odd shaped reluctor in the dizzy and no crank wheel as standard. The cam reluctor has been milled to a single tooth for a cam pulse, and a new trigger wheel mounted on the bottom pulley with a 2 wire sensor.

Ok. So thinking it through. Tomorrow morning we need a check of sensors back to the pins and into the ECU. We also need a check that the ECU is recieving stable voltage at crank. Should do as it’s on a relay from the ACC switch and powered from the battery, but we’ll see. Nothing else should affect the triggers right? I think they are both floating grounds, but I guess one could be signal and the other ground and vice versa to the ECU?

Ok. I’ve got the a Cam and Crank sensor wired in. Each is a reluctor. Crank on trigger one. Connected through to the sensor and signal ground. Signal ground attached to both the return from the sensor and the ground sheath. Multimeter on the sensor gives a fluctuating small voltage under cranking. So i guess next steps is to de pin and check for a fluctuation at the pins ?

Key turning, clicked capture. Took a couple of goes as got a system out of resources message. After the crank it seems to pop up the connect to ECU box. Is that related to this issue? Trigger Scope - 2024-02-17 7;14;03 pm.llgx

Think it’s v3 it’s only a couple of months old

Here we go! Trigger Scope - 2024-02-17 6;20;21 pm.llgx SamuraiGTI.pclx

I’m trying to find my way to a first start using an Atom X on a Suzuki swift motor. I don’t think I can get enough power from the Crank / Cam sensors. So im using the trigger scope. I’m confused though. When you hit capture it seems to load a previous log . This makes it hard to understand what’s happening. How do I reset the trigger scope? If I know that the changes I’m making are reflected in the scope I reckon I’ve got a chance of sorting this

I’m trying to sort out the relays for my fuel pump and fan. I’m using aux 3&4. The relays are wiring positive trigger. They test out fine with the relays removed. But then when the relay is installed the it faults on switching high. The pin is going to 12v to trigger. The power in is good. The power out is fine and the earth is fine. All I can think of is that the pin is seeing a dead short across the relay? perhaps I need a signal ground to the relay as well? Instead of just body ground??? Any wisdom is welcome! I’m stumped at the moment

Have had a play and got a better alignment. Spot on. It’s not producing the goods in terms of voltage. Ive ordered a 55mm 12-1 wheel. That makes the teeth about broadly 4times as large compared to the 36-1 My physics is pretty rusty but I think it’s gonna be inverse law. So perhaps we’ll get 4-16 times as much juice… we’ll stick a scope on it and see what happens later this week

It was 12tooth for a g13b / g13k I ground the extra teeth back to return to 4 tooth. This left me with the problem of not knowing where in the firing sequence I am. Hence the 36-1 missing tooth wheel… I hoped that would give me a clear index for the engine Original and new wheel

That is indeed what I’m saying! I’m new to this so what you are saying is quite possible. I’ve got a 55mm diameter 36-1 wheel in there mounted on the old 12t wheel using the same adapter

And the problem was…. the bloke doing the test… right next job get a better alignment to get more than 0.1v out the sensor and we could be in business

I’m having a bit of fun with my g13b install in my samurai. It’s the g13b from a Suzuki swift so quite different to the stock Sami… I’ve got the injectors and ignition wired and working. The swift gti reluctor was a very odd shape so I’ve mounted a 36 - 1 wheel to it and machined the dizzy to mount the reluctor. I’m getting single via the scope but no engine rpm’s or sparks under cranking. If I only have a cam sensor, does it need to be on the crank sensor input? It seems that whichever I connect it to I’m seeing a trace on input 2. im some what thrown by this! All ideas welcome!

Ok, so as I understand this, we can tune the car on the rolling road and it’ll be fine and run safe. But the drive ability and performance could be improved if we run a wide band to allow the ECU to self trim?

I’m fitting this into my Samurai with a link Atom X ECU. I’ve sorted most of it. But I’m struggling with the one wire lambda sensor… Do I have a to build a circuit? Do I need to buy and fit a wide band? Does it go in the same location at the end if the 4 branch manifold?