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3bar

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Posts posted by 3bar

  1. Hi

     

    Thanks for the detailed reply, the car is throwing codes as can be seen in the LAUNCH diagnostic screen shots, the lights wont clear and the errors are always present so the initial thinking was those modules were "missing" the OEM ecu and throwing an error at CAN bus / CAN gateway layer and hence the codes couldnt be cleared but if the EVO 9 is "simple" then the issue must be elsewhere

    Whats the suggestion to resolve those errors ? different OBD scan tool ?

    WhatsAppImage2023-05-18at08_40_56.thumb.jpeg.dde404b60c0e12a5eb252d64d776b5d9.jpegWhatsAppImage2023-05-18at08_33_34.thumb.jpeg.1e08bdf695b6046f82d5ebd9b9a3e93f.jpegWhatsAppImage2023-05-18at08_33.34(1).thumb.jpeg.90d5105e70f0823fe807b940125e8dc6.jpeg

  2. Hi all

    On an Evo 9 plugin ecu, the oem abs and ayc modules are throwing codes / errors - my initial guess is this is due to those modules losing communications across CAN bus to the OEM ecu, how do we go about resolving this ?

     

    I had a look under the ECU CAN communications and EVO 9 isn't a predefined field, so does anyone know what the settings / parameters to enter here and how should the CAN bus be wired ? ie is it present in the plug n play header or do i need to use the CAN cable and wire the CAN wires to the OEM harness ? 

     

    any and all help appreciated

  3. Hi, in search of that last little bit of hp on a na setup, my idle valve is 20mm diameter and I would like to open it when tps is greater than say 80% for that theoretical increase of air, seat of the pants shows that when the idle valve pipe is open to atmo we are slightly closer to actual atmo pressure in the intake manifold under wot than with it capped off, it does point to a restrictive intake tract pre throttle body which I know but hey if I can crack open the idle valve under wot, why not

     

    I have tried some logic but been unable to get it to respond, the ecu is a g4x and the idle valve is on aux 2 and works perfectly for idle control and cold starts

     

    if tps greater than 80% then idle valve "open" (obviously a pwm value etc)

    What am I missing to make this happen or is this logic not possible ? pretty sure the ecu tries to close the idle valve to prevent a boost leak in most situations so I may be fighting against a pre set logic

     

    I would also like to trip a relay to freewheel the alternator to remove the alternator drag under wot as well, but that I can do 

     

    cheers and thanks

     

  4. Great news update

     

    She starts, she revs cleanly and she idles

    Thanks everyone !

    new timing light and lots of white paint on the pulley to ascertain which coil is triggered where in the cycle were key to getting it running

    thanks again for the help

     

    now to solve the coils triggering on power on via ignition switch and relay, the ecu serial is 500398, any ideas on this ?

     

  5. Hi, here is a bit of an update on this

     

    The crank and cam sensor appear to be reading correctly ! - please see screenshot of the trigger scope

    We now have spark consistently throughout the crank cycle and the ecu is calculating dwell - previously this was absent

    encouragin noises are heard but the car doesnt actually start and run, attached are the map and the pc log (hope i have enough parameters for you, please shout out what needs to be included)

    Feels like something else is missing in the settings, is there anything that needs doing around the sync tooth ? I have moved the "offset" from 276 to -84 as per other usccesful VR6 setups and from 100 / 20 to -100 - 20 and it makes very little difference, I have moved the master fuel up and added cranking enrichment as well and it didnt make a difference and neither did start spray, so it has to be timing at wrong spot or synch tooth, the timing light attached to the motor is not good / fast enough to help with ignition offset at cranking rpm of 200 odd - new one on its way

     

    Any ideas to get it to run ?

     

    Thanks for help so far

     

     

    trigger scope 1 capture.JPG

    trigger screen shot 1 Capture.JPG

    PC Datalog - 2020-12-13 12;19;56 pm.llgx floris vr6 map 17.pclx

  6. Hi, here is an update on the crank trigger wiring

    so here we have the trigger scope capture with what i believe to be the correct crank trigger wiring and following your trigger settings screen shot

    the "trigger scope capture" and "zoomed in trigger scope capture" are the same settings and wiring which to me looks correct

    the cam synch is every second crank revolution, the engine compression effect can be seen in the crank

    if the crank wires are swopped the result can be seen in the "wiring reversed on crank trigger...." file whats interesting here is that the cam signal disappears, but that wiring is not touched, any ideas why that would happen ?

     

    The end result is the same

    the ignition coils fire in test mode perfectly, coil 1,2 and 3 but not while cranking, and battery voltage remains above 11v while cranking,

    I have changed the falling / rising of the cam signal to all options as well as the coils firing on rising / falling and no change, I also moved the synch tooth to every tooth from 1 through to 8 and i have also moved the offset from -360 to 360 in 5 degree increments hoping to find the right combination, as without it getting to idle or at least run i cant get it "zeroed"

     

    Please tell me what you want to see in the logs so I can get the correct parameters in for you to see

     

    thanks for your effort and help

     

     

     

     

    trigger scope capture.JPG

    zoomed in trigger scope capture.JPG

    twiring reversed on crank rigger scope capture.JPG

  7. 17 hours ago, Adamw said:

    Your crank sensor is wired incorrect polarity.  Swap the +/- wires at the sensor connector.  

    Also, you only have a single tooth on the cam so that wont work with the holden trigger mode.  Set up you trigger like below.

    Nsv8nMI.png

     

    cool thanks for looking over the logs and info, we did swap the wires over to see if any difference, will put them back they were and try again, i did also try with just a 60-2 crank trigger and no cam just see if any activity could be seen from coils under cranking and nothing was seen either, is it possible that the ecu unlock process wasnt correct ?

     

     

  8. Hi All, looking for some help please on a G4x install with on a VW VR6.
    The head scratcher at the moment is the ignition coils fire perfectly off ign1,2 and 3 under test, the ignition is set to wasted spark, however the coils never spark when cranking, we have bypassed the coil power relay and running direct to battery positive and ground, and the problem persists, this leads me to think its the triggering thats not triggering the coils.
    The trigger scope looks good using either holden v6 pattern or missing tooth 60-2, I have fiddled with all combinations of rising / falling, pullup on/off and even swapping wires of the crank trigger, to no change, if it had to try to run or conssitently backfire i could pinpoint it to timing itssue, but it seems to stubbornly refuse to fire coils when cranking
    I have changed ecu firmware from 16.odd to 18.11
    Injection is set to sequential
    Help please !
    Thanks

    floris vr6 map 3.pclx ECU Log 2020-11-28 5;15;29 pm.llgx ECU Log 2020-11-28 5;15;38 pm.llgx TriggerScopeLog.llgx TriggerScopeLog.llgx.llgx

  9. Hi

    Help please

    Wiring a LS3 up and it has as oem a Bosch Map sensor 0 261 230 146, this LS3 is going to be boosted......so I am trying to find out / figure out if the oem sensor is boost capable, before splashing out and getting a 3 bar external sensor, does anyone have a calibration / value for this existing sensor ?

    google fu throws up other people asking this same question

     

    Thanks for the help

     

    WhatsApp Image 2020-11-21 at 17.58.08.jpeg

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