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Dochka

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Posts posted by Dochka

  1. 13 hours ago, Simon said:

    image.pngFollow this diagram and all will work.

     

    I did check that,

    But were afraid of feeding +12V to the digital input from the ignition switch,

    Shouldn't the Digital Input be fed Ground ?

    Thank You

  2. Hi,

    Wanna enable this function in order for the Idle Stepper Motor to reset correctly,

    My question is about how to wire the Digital Input & the Auxiliary Output ;

    Is the Digital Input wired to a positive Ignition Switch signal ? as per the Wiring Diagram ?

    And where the Auxiliary Output goes ? To what side of the Main Relay ?

     

    Thank You

  3. Crankshaft Sensor is a 3 wire type,

    Has a single external Ignition Coil "4 pin plug" GM

    Crank Trigger has 4 lobes 

    I believe this is the same trigger as the Vortec 7400cc engine I Megasquirted 2 years ago,

    I did run it on sequential mode using "dual wheel" configuration with the cam sensor input from the distributor...

     

  4. Thanks Adamw,

    The problem is that I didn't see the engine yet,

    I know it's installed in an Off-Road Jeep, so I assume it has a Returned fuel system at 3 Bar, equipped with a distributor with spark plug wires, stock sized injectors (200cc/min), a crank sensor reluctor...

    But I thought you can send me a start up file in advance so I can be prepared... 

    Will send you more details once i have them

    Thanks Again

  5. 6 hours ago, Adamw said:

    What do you mean by "the start end", does it have two separate switches?

    It has one Start/Stop button, that has a "ribbon printer like" terminals at the back of it ;

    I mean that I have to know which one of those terminals is the "Start" signal and not the "On" one, so I wire it to Digital Input 3, and then find what is the terminal of the "Stop" Signal so I wire it to the Digital Input 4 wire so I use it as a Kill Engine

  6. 14 hours ago, Adamw said:

    PT CAN is usually one Red wire, one Blue/Red.

    For the starter button, yes, connect the button to any DI, then an aux to a relay to control the starter solenoid.

    I wired DI 3 to the "Start" end of the [Start/Stop Engine Button] and configured as follows ; 'Function : Start Position' , 'Pullup Resistor : Off' , 'On Level : High'

                 DI 4 to the "Stop" end of the [Start/Stop Engine Button] and configured as follows ; 'Input Latch : Off' , 'Pullup Resistor : Off' and 'On Level : Low'

    And used Aux 7 as "Starter Solenoid" , 'Polarity : Low' and 'Driver Type : Low Side'

     

    Is this correct ?

    Thank You

     

  7. 16 hours ago, Adamw said:

    Hang on, you said injectors are paired 1&6 etc, but then you say injector 1 is working but injector 6 isnt?   If injector 1 is firing then that proves the inj drive is ok, if they are both wired to the same drive then they should both be working - it could only be a wiring issue or seized injector or similar?  Can you confirm if that is what you are trying to say?

    Tested the output directly from the ecu plug

    All of the injector outputs are working

    Did some detective work on the wiring loom and found out the problem...

    Thanks

  8. 7 hours ago, Adamw said:

    Hang on, you said injectors are paired 1&6 etc, but then you say injector 1 is working but injector 6 isnt?   If injector 1 is firing then that proves the inj drive is ok, if they are both wired to the same drive then they should both be working - it could only be a wiring issue or seized injector or similar?  Can you confirm if that is what you are trying to say?

    Yeah,

    I first thought so,

    But I got shocked when I tested the Voltage on Injector 1 and 6 Plugs while testing them and found out that Inj 1 Output Voltage is 0.60V and returns to 0.20V when I stop testing and that Voltage on Injector plug 6 is at 0.20V all the time even if i test it...

    Injector 3 plugs is the only other one that works (0.20V to 0.60V) , while all the others left don't work...

    Checked the connector, wiring... 

    Strange thing is that engine was running normal before I updated the firmware...

    Tried restoring the old firmware, and the same issue persists...

  9. Hi,

    Today I've got a car powered by a Toyota 2JZ-VVTi engine managed by a Link Storm Blue G4+ 1 Plug ecu ;

    Engine was running normal before we shut it down, I Reset the ecu to factory settings and upgraded the firmware to the latest;

    Set up all the Inputs/Outputs,StartUp.pclr

    Engine is wired Semi-Sequentially, Inj-Coil 1 run Cyl 1&6, 2 Runs 2&5 & 3 runs 3&4

    Started the engine, but 4 cylinders are dead... Turns out Injectors number 2, 4,5 & 6 are not pulsating

    Checked wiring continuity and no issues there, but when I test Injectors individually, only 1 & 3 Pulsate...

    Coils work fine

    What could be the issue ? This is driving me nuts, tried running the engine 36-2 mode on Trigger 1 only but same issue..

    Elios_X Trigger Scope Log 2020-02-24 8;42;59 pm.llg Elios X.llg

  10. The car had all the electronics and wiring removed before,

    What should the PT-Bus wire colors be ? Are they Orange and Black or Red and Blue ?

    Also, the car has a Start/Stop Engine button in the dash that I'd like to use and keep the car as factory, but the DME ecu has been removed also...

    Is it as simple as wiring a AN Volt Input or Digital Input to the Link from that Start Button and then from Link to the Starter via Aux 8 for example ?

    Thanks

  11. On 2/20/2020 at 9:14 AM, Adamw said:

    You still need to fix the problems that Simon mentioned.  With your trigger 1 settings wrong you are going to have significant timing drift and possibly trigger errors.

    If you have no cam sensor connected you should set trigger 2 sync mode to "none".

    Thank You !

    I changed the Trigger 1 Settings to Reluctor and for now set the Trigger 2 to "none"

    Everything works great

  12. On 1/26/2020 at 10:59 AM, Adamw said:

    There is a little bit of info floating around on the net for this model.

    Connect the ECU to the PT bus and try below and tell me if the tacho works.  

    TICqHFP.png

    QsdQGOC.png

    Do I need any external LINK Adapters or Cables / or I wire directly the CANH-CANL wires from the ecu to the PT Bus with no additional resistors ?

    Thank You

  13. Hi,

    I'm about to tune a 2JZ-VVTi swapped BMW E90 and the owner had a Link Atom ecu installed there by a previous owner...

    I convinced him about swapping that ecu to a Link Fury in order to do a "Proper" install and for things to work as they should... but he said he'll swap it in the summer;

    Meanwhile, he wants me to tune the engine using the Atom for now, and I'm guessing if it could run the VVTi properly, since the fuel won't be sequential and we're limited by the inputs / outputs this little ecu has;

    Thanks for your input

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