Leiden
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Posts posted by Leiden
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Lock your timing at 0deg and adjust the trigger offset until your are reading on the TDC mark. That way you can be certain your on the right track rather than guessing what the painted marks might represent.
Also adjust ignition delay so that when you hold the revs up the timing doesn't wander off the mark.
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I've found about 10 deg in the ignition retard gives a nice smooth transition in and out of fuel cut.
The charge temp approximation table is a tricky one and it takes a bit of time to get it right. It will also have an effect on the fuel table so this really needs to be done on a dyno or road tested with AFR feedback. If its been tuned in Traditional fuel mode then you don't need to use it.
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You'd want to increase it since the VCT opens the intake valves earlier. So VCT off you'd have say 400deg, with VCT on you'd have 430-440ish. From memory it advances the cam about 20deg (40 crank deg)
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The engine has a fairly low compression ratio (9:1) so I would think around 28-30deg at peak torque N/A. Its really a "how long is a piece of string" question as every engine is different and knock can be dependent on so many different factors. Guessing is really going to just get you into trouble, you really need some way to monitor knock and ideally a load bearing dyno to dial in MBT.
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Keep in mind that the basemap supplied with the ecu is really just there to get the vehicle started, set the trigger offsets, inputs, outputs and confirm things are working before getting it tuned.
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On my setup I wired the relay to switch off ignition, rather than controlled by the ecu.
The relay normally switches two constant 12v feeds, one for coils and the other for ecu, cas, maf, and possibly a couple other sensors. Its possible you have a wiring issue or back feeding.
With the Link all sensors, solenoids, injectors, coils etc should be on a switched 12v source, not a constant 12v feed.
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If your main fuel tables load axis is set as TPS then it might otherwise under cranking conditions the engine will pull very little vacuum, so will be basically be reading off the 0 - 500rpm cells around 100kpa (0kpa mgp)
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You can check to see if the injectors are leaking by running the pump with the fuel rail removed from the engine. Make sure the injectors are secured so they dont pop out. If you see fuel seepage around the outlets then you have a leakage issue.
You could manually give the engine more air by holding the throttle at 10% while cranking, if that improves things then your on the right track
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Im using a Toshiba Portege running Windows 7. Great battery life and I've found Toshiba products to be a lot better than Compaq or HP models.
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Im starting to wonder if you have leaky injectors, most fuel systems hold pressure in the rail for a few minutes after shut off so this could be flooding the engine?
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Are you losing coolant?
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Once the engine does start do you notice the AFR's are a little leaner than normal, obviously with no closed loop lambda corrections
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According to the manual the "VVT Offset" value should be set to the lowest cam angle displayed during the Cam Angle Test. You still have this value set to 720deg. In your case it should be 95.4deg.
Edit: I have just noticed that you have DI1 and Trigger 2 both set as Inlet/LH. As far as I'm aware the Mazda engine only has the one CMP sensor, so this is probably going to give you issues as well.
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Upload your map, also how have you wired the coil pairs
1&6, 2&5, 3&4?
As for the injectors firing with key off, make sure any ground sinked injector/aux outputs are only powered with the key in the ON position or you will have back feeding
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720deg ATDC is basically 0deg ATDC in the 4 stroke cycle, it doesn't seem right.
Edit: I have had a look through a few other ecu configurations and noticed a couple of them use rising edge for trig 1 and trig 2 as opposed to a falling edge. I would have expected the intake cam centerline to be somewhere around 400-500deg, rather than 720deg.
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Can you upload the map file you used to make the most recent log
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Ahh that makes sense, if the stock ecu is still connected then that will be providing the pullup.
Once thing I did notice is the offset is set to 720ATDC, have you tried the cam angle test to get the right value?
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I think you might be confusing Closed Loop Lambda and Open Loop Lambda. Closed Loop is based on feedback from the Oxygen Sensor whereas Open Loop Lambda works as an overall correction to the Fuel Table based on the Lambda Target Table.
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I found Traditional Fueling is a lot easier to get up and running, especially if you are new to tuning.
I'd disable the Charge Temp Correction, your also using the Open Loop Lambda table which means there is some behind the scenes correction to your Fuel Table based on the AFR/Lambda Target Table so it might pay to read up on that to help you understand whats going on.
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Turn off Inlet Centerline Display, it should only be used if you know the exact inlet cam retard position in crankshaft degrees.
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Turn the pullup resistors on for trig 1 & trig 2. Also set the trigger edge's back to falling.
Recalibrate the trigger offset and redo the cam angle test to get the offset value for trigger 2 vvt.
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Interesting that you are using Charge Temp Correction with Traditional Fuel Mode? I noticed the Fuel Table has an odd shape and very little range, normally the numbers should increase as load increases.
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The Nissan CAS can be a bit problematic and cause the timing to scatter, most recommend switching to a 24+1 trigger disc inside the CAS, I think the problem is worse if there is a bit of slop in the timing belt, or the o-ring on the CAS snout is worn or loose.
Also I cant see any attachments, did you upload your map?
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I've found when the wastegate boost source is located at the turbo outlet there can be spiking issues when trying to hold the wastegate closed until closer to the target, I moved the pressure source to just before the throttle body and this sorted the problem and made it easier to tune the wastegate numbers.
350z timing question
in Engine Tuning
Posted
You could manually enter 15 or 20 in the timing table and see where the marks line up if you were curious. How did you measure the timing? Loop wire or ignition lead between the coil and plug