Matt Howe

Simple request - an accelerometer option as an option for the inputs. Most 0-5V powered ones are output 2.5V for 0g, then a fixed voltage when experiencing 1g. For example the factory subaru ones are 2.5V 0g and 1.5V/g either way. Would be nice to be able to input a centre voltage, then the v/g swing parameter

Are OEM idle control valves usually big enough to flow enough air into the engine to support anitlag? Say for example one of the subaru valves. Would having the ecu fully open it be enough? At the moment it seems you can only hook up a valve to switch open. Why not use the factory idle valve?

Actually one other handy thing, you have probably thought of this already, but on some other tuning software (fcdatalogit) it can display a knock level for each cell. That would be well handy

Faaaantastic

Hi guys With the ability to trim fuel and ign per cylinder, it would be useful to have a better idea of what cylinder was knocking without the use of afr or egt probes on each header. Is there an easy way to program in a knock time window into the knock control system so that when the software detects a knock event it tell me what cylinder was the last one to fire? This would then make say pulling timing or adding that fuel into that cylinder an easy way to try and get things safe again. Cheers Matt

Have just updated to v1.9.2 firmware and pclink v3.4 so i thought i'd give the quicktune feature a go as ive just fitted a new intercooler Seems to work well I found. However, when analysing the datalogs in the run time display it is not very intuitive. Perhaps i missed it somewhere, but the scaling factors seem to be out and cause the data to become hard to analyse. you can see what i mean in the picture. To me it seems, it would be better if at least the afr target and actual afr were scaled the same. Preferably values like map and rpm set so they dont dwarf the other values Perhaps ive missed a setting that lets you set your own scaling factors??? http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m91/Opticalnz/ecu/rtgraphscaling.jpg

I have no direct results from E10, but adding alcohol to my normal fuel makes a nice difference. The fuel has oxygen in it so it works in a similar way to nos or mroe boost. Consumption does have to increase to get afr's back up, but results have been postitive so far. Especially if your timing is being held back by det.

Hi I was looking for one a while ago. You can get one from Link directly by emailing sales directly, although they are slow to respond. Perhaps try calling them for a hurry up as online support seems hard to come by of late. Otherwise keep an eye out on trademe.co.nz Cheers

Cool, it wouldnt need to be absolutely accurate, only relatively accurate for A/B map testing. Will look forward to it! Have you guys played around with inputting accelerometers for data logging? That was another option i was looking at for plotting g-force against rpm or something like that. I'm not sure where you pick up an appropriate chip from though...

Would it be possible to integrate into the readouts or datalogging some kind of output power estimation? The apexi RSM and Blitz power meter have these sort of functions. They are very handy for road tuning to easily compare the power output of multiple runs

Nice work, sounds very promising!

Keep us posted, i'm keen to see what can be done

Thanks Simon Ive borrowed a hand controller to use for now, but compared to using pclink on my g3 it's a nightmare haha Ive emailed sales about a seriaLink but haven't had a reply. Do you still sell them? I haven't looked for the firmware version yet, is it upgradeable myself if it is not up to date? Or would I need to send it to you guys? Also what is the latest version? Thanks

Hi I have another car that has an older Link ecu in it. I guess it mus be a G1 as there is no indication it is a G2 from the label. And too old to be a G3. on the sticker on the top it says in the green oval 'LinkPlus' www.link-electro.co.nz There is a port on the side with a grey cable coming out. Looks like a serial cable. Im guessing this is to connect to the hand controller. Questions are: Can i purchase something to connect via USB and therefore use PCLink? Where do I get a hand controller if there is no PC support, and how much? How do I work out what firmware version is in it and whether it is worthwhile upgrading? Thanks very much!

Hi David Are you able to post it up here? Or perhaps email it to me? [email protected] I should be motivated enought to try and finish it once i see what you have done. Thanks Matt

I am about to start the tedious process of writing a universal datalog conversion file for analysing the LinkPlus G3 logs in Datalog lab. Has anyone already written one they would be willing to share?

I have been playing around setting my boost control up properly and have come across a few things.. I notice there is the option for closed loop boost based on the MAP sensor, but the help text has no info and I cannot see anywhere to configure it when activated. Do I presume this is a feature in development? Also with the dual boost tables, it would be good if one boost map could be set to 'boost by gear', and the second boost map set to 'boost adjust'. Boost by gear is necessary for me as I dont reach full boost in first and second gear due to insufficient load, and sometimes over-boost slightly in top gear up hills. But, I also want the ability to turn the boost down - for wet days or when the missus is driving. I dont see a way this can be done, perhaps you can elaborate if it's possible? (However, I'm thinking closed loop boost control would probably make the boost by gear functionality unnecessary ...)

Hi I have an Impreza, ive just bought an LC1 and fitted it to the lower end of the down pipe. There is an existing narrow band at the top of the downpipe. I now have the option of running a true narrow band, simulated narrow band or wideband O2 sensor for closed loop idle and crusing. Which would be the preferred sensor and why? Thanks!

Is it just me or is the air intake temp sensor an awkwardly shaped nightmare of a big lump of plastic? the ones ive seen used with autronic ecus, for example, are small and neatly screw into the IC pipe. Why cant the link ones be the same? Or is it possible to use another type intake air temp sensor? Alternatively, Id like to see how other people have mounted theirs. Cheers

Cheers Ashley. Where does one buy an appropriate antilag valve? With the Audi, it has coil on plug and the LEM has 4 ignition outputs. Is there a simple way around this issue? e.g converting to wasted spark?

Thanks for that info Kim! Bump for antilag question?

Thanks for the info Ashley. Just another question, does the idle control valve play a role in antilag? Or will antilag run seperatly without using the idle valve or any other type of valve that would need to be retrofitted? Also, a friend and I and building an old audi quattro. At the moment we have an S6 engine (AAN) running with the factory motronic ecu. We would liek to fit an aftermarket EMS to it. Can you advise whether you have done much testing with audi inline 5 cylinder engines? An LEM G3 looks like it has all the features we need, we are just not sure whether the extra cyliner makes things difficult for the EMS or not.. The AAN engine uses a coil on plug setup. Cheers!

Thanks for the info Ashley Up until 99 the subaru idle control was a seperate unit and had the pipes as you've described, from then on they were integrated into the throttlebody. Maybe there is a 3 wire version that is integrated into the throttle body? I will have to hunt around to see what i find. With the seperate 3-wire version I currently have, will I need to connect the supply of coolant to it for temperature dependence? If the system can be tuned without the supply of coolant that would be preferable. As another option, I have seen some people scrap the idle valve altogether and open the butterfly a little bit to set the idle speed. As the car warms up the timing is adjusted to keep the engine running smoothly.. It seems to work for them, but I am not sure of the pros/cons of doing this. Can you advise? Thanks very much

Sorry, continued... Also would you recommend replacing the factory 2 port boost solenoid to control boost better? Is the 2 port a problem above certain pressure? Thanks Matt

Hi I have recently purchased a LinkPlus G3. Im planning on wiring it up to my version 3 subaru sti. The factory idle control valve on the v3 is a 3 wire. However I want to switch to a 6 wire solenoid from a later model subaru as the valve is integrated into the throttle body and it nice and neat. I have seen the v5/6 base maps that come with the link and i'm aware i could use another 3 or so link outputs to control the new solenoid. However, I would like to know if there is a way of controlling the 6 wire solenoid as if it were a 3-wire. Would it be possible to find out which wire on the 6-wire solenoid completely opens the valve and which closes it? Or simply wire up one side of the motor?