Shawn Ferguson

Yep g3 with an adapter. Thanks alot Simon. Â Makes life alot easier now.

Its a subaru rs liberty simon.Â

Would that spare aux already be available in the standard harness where the original boost solenoid was and I just have to select it on the pc link and ensure its powering the original harness. Or would it not be that much of a plug and play type scenario. I ask because the after market solenoid I wad going to buy is designed to straight plug into the harness. Â If not ill find a spare out and wire in.

Im about to have my subaru sent back for a final tune. Just need some advice on setting up boost control. How do I plug everything up in order to have the ecu run closed loop boost control and not run an ebc. Its currently running on waste gate pressure.

Of course I understand that Steve. My concern is I will have to trailer it to the tuners as its so rich its undriveable. I'm seeing numbers below 10:1 which is as low as my wide band will read. It's a plug an play unit.

Fellas I have the car running and have gone through the first start up procedure in the manual. Issue being the car is now running super rich. Blowing plooms of black smoke at idle. Where have I gone wrong?? The master fuel number I had as low as 4ms and now just to get it to idle its up around 12???? Any ideas I have one warning for AN temp channel 2 input at 5v so I'll have to look into what I was using that channel for! Could it be linked to the issue? Anybhelp greatly appreciated Regards Shawn.

Sorted. Had a poor earth and once it was fixed I could hear the test plus sparking its little heart out as soon as I turned the test on. Best sound I've heard in a while. Then sorted out the wiring for the other 3 coils and after some final stressing it fired to life. That is now the best sound I've heard in a while. Td06 powered 2.2ltr Subaru donk with just a dump pipe hanging off it and a lot of fuel. So yes it's sounds angry. Question is how do I adjust the injection to suit my injectors.

Ive added the capacitors to the circuit, and still no spark, The coil packs are fine ive tested them by supplying them with 12V an Earth and a signal and can get a spark, however on the car no spark. Ive run the ignition test and can hear the coil ticking but still no spark. Any suggestions?

Scott I did some fault finding yesterday, continuity tested the ignition wiring all the way to the coil and everything came back good. After a quick flick through the wiring and install manual and then a look through the technical drawings on here I found what could be my issue. http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/technical-drawings/I14

Scott, ive added two decent sized earths to the engine, and still no spark. Ive swapped to a stock ecu and stillnothing so im fairly certain the issue may be coil related. will do some more investigating tomorrow.

Well I did that, but not having a decent multimeter on hand I couldnt measure any frequency, but there was NO spark during the test, as I did have a spark tester connected during that time. Im only near the car for a few days every couple of weeks scott so ill bring my multimeter home with me and check it correctly, If all is well ill take the coils to a good mate of mine who deals with ecu and ignition testing. Im going to re-check my earths to the engine and see if this helps also. Thanks scott.

I've seen the test function Scott. I had a mate man the spark tester to see any spark. I switched the selected coil to "on" and we couldn't attain a spark. Although we did see a dwell on a multimeter during cranking? So to clarify I conducted the test correctly you simply select a coil to "on" and that's that. Did I miss a button to start the test etc?

Anyone who can help that would be great. Car is a 92 subaru rs turbo ive been building in my spare time. Its ready to crank to life but has no spark. Coils have been upgraded to my02sti coils with built in igniters, standard igniter has been bypassed. Ive got good earths on all coils and have +12v at all coils, signal wise the link is telling me i have a 3.99m/s output on cranking, not having an oscilloscope to check with ive tried simpler methods, got the multimeter on there to check dwell angle, and its telling me im getting a 5degree dwell, (starting at 90 degree for a 4 cyl and dropping to 85 on cranking) so im assuming here I have some sort of output to my coils. Can anyone lead me in the right direction here. Cheers, Shawn

Hi there Steve, I've only just once again began work on this car. The reason for the throttle body swap is I've reversed the intake manifold and in doing so the standard tb would no longer fit without fouling on several other components. I've not enlarged it's by a great means so should be fine in that regards.

Scott, ive done a bit more to the vehicle, reverse manifold is complete, now that you have confirmed the link uses only 2 iacv wires. not 3 as standard. Im going to use a bigger throttle body with iacv on it not the standard unit. Gives me more room and less plumbing to re route. Ive had a look around the wreckers and it looks like I can use a falcon EF throttle body.

Thanks scott, Ive been researching this today and doggin through my pc to find all the pics of cars ive seen with this done and ive come to the conclusion the easiest way to do this will be to leave the manifold in its place, but cutting the throttle body off the back side and welding it to the front side, blanking off the back, the iacv will stay in its location. I dont have pictures to post up from this pc but shall do so when im home.

Ok mate thank you for answering all my questions. The o2 shall be plugged into the original wiring as you have stated the g3 is configured to use all the standard sensors as the oem ecu. So that helps alot, everything that was on the engine shall be used as normal and ill just use the spare an temp for oil temp. The rest ill just use as independent gauges. Down the track i might invest in a better ecu, or the link dash unit if it compatible for my needs. Ive been told I can still data log on this unit so that will be great.

ok mate thanks very much for your help, ill be putting the iat sensor through the afm wiring. I then have the choice of oil press, oil temp, egt, or my wideband. Im guessing the wideband is the only thing ill be able to use via the ecu.

Scott how many aux channels do I have at my disposal, i have to following gauges and sensors, I have a wideband 02, oil pressure, oil temp, and im buying an intake temp from a local supplier as per your earlier advice. ( i checked and all i have with the ecu is a coolant temp sensor). sorry if im being a pest this is all new to me so trying to play catch up with all the info.

So I can use my afm wiring for an intake temp sensor. What particular brand/part number sensor. Id like to be able to monitor that closely along with exhaust gas temps

Thanks for the link scott. I had only found the install manual on here so far. ill read through it and see what I find. No doubt ill be requiring much more info as I go.

Hi there fellas, I have a g3 to install in my 92 RS Liberty, I have the adapter link and looms all is ready to be plugged in. Id like to know where I can find any info as to what I can delete from the engine wiring to tidy up the bay a bit and clear some room. What it needs and what it doesnt. This is my first aftermarket ecu so any advice would be great! Shawn.