Kim Abraham

Ok thanks, this would be why there are stand alone PIC based controllers that read the output from the TPS, G sensor, speed and wheel sensors. Just thought it could be elegant to do it all through a single unit if possible. From what I can gather the DCCD (well the early ones anyway)get moved around by the current supplied (something like 3 amps apparently) with the voltage varying between less than 0.5 to 6 - 7 volts to control lock from 35:65 to 50:50, so it's probably better not to have anything too directly connected to the ECU that is switching that sort of current I suppose.

Is it possible/advisable to use an unused G3 PWM output as a feed for controlling (basic auto mode) for an early (EMCD) type DCCD. I understand that the amperages required to feed the DCCD would mean you would need some kind interface between the G3 and the diff to isolate it, but the PWM outputs are able to give variable voltages in response to sensor inputs aren't they? Not just on/off type switching.

Yep, the same idea, it's good enough to run at something a little bit better than limp mode 'til it's put on a dyno and tuned. cheers

Got my adaptalink back, thanks good turnaround! Before I do the 2.5 install I was thinking of confirming the basic setup on my original V3 Sti setup (all standard JDM). I assume I should be able to connect the adaptor and G3 and basically start and run to confirm the adaptor settings are correct then disconnect and replace with the stock ECU until the engine swap (then a flat top to the dyno and full retune for the 2.5). Is the base map with this ECU similar to like the basic to start and run for a Microtech etc.? Or is it a bit more sophisticated? Mostly I'm trying to confirm that the JDM fuel pump pinouts etc are correct. cheers Kim

Cheers Ashley, thanks for all the help.

Cheers for that, I've checked my adapter and it says both fans are on Ign 4, I'll post pack the adapter to you ASAP. I'm going to try the wasted spark first up with the V7 coils as I do want to use as much V7 hardware as possible (it's all near new anyway). Since I'm using the Link inbuilt MAP and supplied air temp it's really only TPS, water temp, cam/crank, etc of which I have all the V7 stuff which can be wired to suit. On another subject, can you directly wire back the output from the Innovate LC1 and monitor through the Link or do you need the output from one of their guages to go back.

Biggest problem is that using the V6-7 manifold (offset manifold bolts in heads)I have no way of mounting the coil pack (V3-4 is centre mounted). I could use a V5 manifold which is offset coil mounting with my own coil pack, but the mounts for the coil are different and would require some mods anyway, and I would have to change injectors. I'm not really concerned if there is no spark energy improvement, it's just easier to adapt the V6-7 under manifold wiring than to find a place to weld tabs and central mount the coil pack on the manifold. Where are the details for the fan control mod, was this from the factory? I purchased my setup direct in May 2007, the AdaptaLink shows V1.0. cheers

Thanks, I thought that the triggering shouldn't be a problem with a Link considering it's heritage, but it's always good to check in case you paint yourself into a corner. The setup for coils is: Original: Standard JDM Sti V3/4 Diamond 3 wire centre coil pack (no igniter) with the Diamond GB003 igniter on the bracket with the boost controller solenoid and map/alt sensors. It's the same standard wiring as the late 96 to early 98 Sti and RA (all out of a 04-97 GF8 Sti) through the whole car. What I would like to acheive is not altering the original harness (apart from under manifold) so that I can switch engine and ECU if necessary. My air temp sensor wiring is no problem as on my model it has the 90mm 3 wire AFM (sod of a thing) with a separate 2 wire air temp sensor, so it's just an extension and the AFM unplugged. With the coils (I've got a set of both types of Diamond plug tops)to run as wasted spark. Which would be better to use this way as far as dwell etc goes for wasted spark? I assume I'd create an un-earthed junction (straight thru)for the wires where the current igniter sits, then pick up each pair and power from the plug to the original coil pack and wire the individual earths back to the engine in a single circuit. If I decide to go with direct spark and add wiring, would I lose any features that might currently use the unused channels under wasted spark?

Hi, I'm doing a 2.5 Sti install in a 97 GF8 Sti (JDM wiring) using your G3 with the adapter all set up for the JDM wiring. The 2.5 motor has been fitted with 01 heads (non avcs) and non tumbler Sti manifold. I would like to use the 01 cam pulleys which means using the 01 sensors, I noticed the 2.5 crank angle pulley and sensor is the same as the 01, but the whole shooting match is different to the 97 V3/4 Sti motor (red, brown sensors and different triggers). Can the G3 deal with using the other ones or is this a full base map change before any tuning can be done? I was intending to use the later model manifold TPS and ISC, and from the manual I can see this is no drama. Also is it possible to simply maintain the centre coil wiring/diamond remote mounted igniter and wasted spark setup split out to the late model FK0186 or FK0140 plug top coils? regards Kim